Answers

Michael's numbers are correct, keeping in mind "start at" and that is for the window itself and does not also include a high quality professional installation, spray foam insulation, high quality caulking job, custom exterior cladding, etc. Installed - if you are getting a quality window from a professional window installation company that does't cut any corners and provides lifetime warranties on the product and workmanship and warranties on the glass breakage, etc - vinyl can range anywhere from $700-1,500 and fiberglass/wood clad $1,200-$2,500 depending on the features and add ons. Big box stores, subs, builders, etc would be a lower price point but you would not get the quality most people are looking for with a replacement project on the windows, workmanship, or warranty. Hope this helps.

Good Morning,

Nice space.  Its hard to tell from the photos just how big the space needing to be filled is however 

Dap 18854 High Heat Mortar Raw Building Material, Black

should work well. It can likey be found at you local hardware store of online

https://www.amazon.com/18854-Mortar-Building-Material-Black/dp/B0006MXS4C/ref=asc_df_B0006MXS4C/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167127061369&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16226564078373131268&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032160&hvtargid=pla-307130896304&psc=1

Best of luck and Happy Holidays

Jared

When you are looking for a professional contractor to successfully bring your home remodeling project to life, you need to make sure you do your homework.

Below are 6 things to consider before hiring a contractor:

1.What is their track record? How long have they been working in the area?

Check out the home remodeling companies you are considering on the Better Business Bureau’s website as well as other sites like Angie’s List. Read testimonials on review websites and look over company websites for portfolios and comments from past clients.

2.What are their credentials? Are they licensed? Bonded? Insured?

States set their own requirements about licenses, but most states have an agency that homeowners can contact to confirm a contractor’s license and credentials. Ask for proof of bonding to make sure your contractor is current on his/her credentials. Insurance puts the liability on the contractor if something goes wrong during the project. Not all insurance is created equal, make sure to ask for a copy of their insurance certificate to verify they have General Liability, Workers’ Compensation, and Auto coverages.

3.Do they have references? Will they provide you with a past client list?

Use a past client list to talk with the people your client has worked with before. Ask them if the contractor delivered what was promised on time and at the agreed upon budget. Also ask about how easy or difficult it was to communicate with the contractor.

4.How will they communicate with you? How do you reach them after hours?

Make sure you agree on how you will communicate with your contractor and if you need weekly in person meetings to get your questions answered.

5.Will they be getting all the required building permits for the project?

While the homeowner pays the cost of the building permits, the contractor should be the one responsible for obtaining the permits.

6.How will the payment schedule be arranged?

For replacement work never pay the entire amount before the project starts. Payment schedules vary from company to company, but there is usually a deposit and payment installments based on certain stages of completion.

Just as you are asking questions about your contractor, your contractor will be asking questions about you and your home remodeling project. It is important that you are aware of the questions your contractor should NOT be asking you.

Sometimes a contractor is trying to find out information about a project, but he/she may phrase questions in a way that makes the homeowner feel uncomfortable.

Listed below are some questions your contractor should NOT ask you:

1.Are you widowed?

2.Do you have money in your savings account?

3.How much money do you make?

4.Will you be alone when I arrive?

5.What is your credit score?

6.May I see your other bids before I present mine?

In Angie Hicks’s article, “3 Questions Your Contractor Shouldn’t Ask,” from Angie’s List she explains how home improvement contractors can be more tactful when they request information from clients.

Check out the article here: https://www.angieslist.com/articles/3-questions-your-contractor-shouldnt-ask.htm

J.H. Fiber cement is composed of 70% concrete and 30% celluoose. Cellulose being ground up paper. Both water and cement wick moisture so if you use these products be sure to read and follow installation instructions. Leave no surface unpainted or it will draw moisture and deteriorate. Seen it many times. It is also dusty if you cut it with a saw. It is heavy, breaks easily if flexed. It is also heavy so it only comes in 12 foot lengths for the most part. It has the insulation value of cement which R-1 per inch. It is 5/16 thick so you get 5/16 or R-1 which is not much.

Vinyl is plastic but it is about half the price and any handyman can install if they follow directions so it can expand and contractl. Don't expect it top lasd forever. Hail storms beat it up pretty bad if the stones are big enough. One caution with it is do not place a grill near i, vinyl melts at 150 to 165 degerees depending on how thick it is. 

In my opinion steel is a little costiler but in most cases lasts for a long time.  If you figure it out, you will replace vinyl about every seven years. My stleel has been on my home in a hail region since 1975, No hail damage. You do the math.

1) Fiberglass tubs are notorious for getting hairline cracks that usually open up when someone is standing in it with the water running.

2) Also it might be a leak from upstream (plumbing behind the walls going in) such as a leaking copper pipe or loose pex fitting. It could also be in your drainage as well. 

3) Is it a one piece shell? Sometimes fiberglass units come in 1, 2 or more pieces and can leak at the seams. Use a sealant to fil in these seams if you have any. 

4) I've actually seen windows in a tub unit leak rain, etc behind the unit and it appeared as if the tub was leaking. 

Your best bet may be to pull out the unit and see where the leaking appears to be happening. 

Good luck! 

Christofer, There is a lot written about your particular condition. What I would do would be to install a spray polyurethane insulation (closed cell insulation) into the attic ceiling and down to and including the eaves. this installed over a 1/4" plywood that would be "cleated" down at a minimum of 1" below the bottom of the roof sheathing, thus eliminating the "hot roof" situation. As far as moisture... if you understand that warm air rises and carries the moisture up (another reason i would use a closed cell product) then it makes sense to foam any walls or kneewalls as well. The venting on the top side would not be to eliminate any interior moisture, but to make your shingles last longer (keep them from overheating). Quite a few asphalt companies have disclaimers on warrantees because of this issue. You would need to check with your steel roof manufacturer how they respond to a hot roof application. 

Ok so you don't really want all that moisture collecting on your windows and or finished wall substrates in the attic. So an ERV/HRV or even the furnace fan run continuously would help distrubute or evacute the excess moisture if this is your main house furnace (air handler). FYI- change filters monthly in these systems to help mitigate possible mold issues. I recommend the 6" combustion air (bringing in dry outside air) code required in IRC. I am not sure if this furnace unit in your attic is the primary furnace (air handler) for the home. If so that would help distribute attic moisture to the lower parts of the home. If separate attic unit only, I'm not thinking it will ever distribute moist warm air to the lower level like you suggest.

Remember this... once you start changing the function of your home's ventilation/conditioned or unconditioning of a space you will be changing the whole dynamics of how the house used to function. Henceforth do your homework. All this said...I run my company business in the extreme temperature zone of Minnesota. Your local heating guys should have a better handle on providing a safe living environment for your family. Mold can be a serious issue.  

Decks are a very tricky item to finish properly.  There are so many variables that have to be considered prior to applying any kind of stain.  If I were staining your deck, I would start by asking a series of questions:

1.) Where are you located? What type of climate is the deck going to be subjected to?

2.) What type of wood is the deck made of?  This will limit what kind of products you can use or would be best suited for the type of material used.  Some woods will only allow you to use an oil based product, while others you can stain with newer waterborne products.

3.) How is the deck built? Is it close to the ground (1'-2' or high up 5'-12').

If the deck is close to the ground, using a one coat system with an oil based product is best.  Although the solid color stains hold up well on decks closer to the ground as well.  

The biggest enemy to any deck surface is moisture, so having good ventillation is a key factor.

4.) What type of finish would you like to apply? Do you want a solid color stain (looks like a paint) or do you want a translucent/transparent or semi-transparent stain (allows you to see the natural grain of the wood)?

We recommend an oil based finish for translucent and semi-transparent stains and we recommend a waterborne product for solid color stains.

5.) When was the deck built?

The wood doesn't necessarily have to weather prior to staining, it just has to be DRY (typically less than 15% moisture content).  Once a tree is cut down, the wood starts to decay as it is no longer connected to a living water source.  The sooner you can protect the wood from the elements of sun and water, the better off your deck will be.  When you let a deck "weather" you allow it to suck up moisture and then have it dried out by the sun (repeatedly).  The more this happens, the faster the wood of your deck will decay.  This is why unprotected wood turns gray; the gray is the dead wood fibers.  If you left your deck to weather, you will want to clean it and remove all the dead wood fiber.  If you use a powerwasher, don't get too close!  The power washer is only meant as a way to help rinse off the deck surfaces.  The tip of the powerwasher should not get any closer than 10-12" from any wood surface, otherwise you can damage the wood.  Use a deck scrub brush and a solution to help remove the dead wood fiber.  Benjamin Moore has some great how to videos on their website: www.benjaminmoore.com.

As soon as the deck is dry (if new), it has to be sanded with about 80 grit sand paper to remove mill glaze.  This "glaze" is what happens when the wood is cut in the saw mill.  The mill glaze will prevent a stain from penetrating the wood properly and cause premature failure of the finished surface.

If you had to powerwash and remove dead wood fiber from the surface, you will want to sand the wood surfaces to remove any "furring" which happens during the process of removing the dead wood fiber and cleaning the deck surfaces.  Once again, use about 80-100 grit sand paper. 

6.) Let's set expectations...

Deck surfaces are subjected to all kinds of elements, foot traffic and furniture.  A typical finish will last for about 24-36 months before showing signs of wear.  Some higher traffic areas may see signs of wear sooner than that.  Be aware that if you live in a climate that gets snow, be careful if you shovel off the deck and try not to throw salt on the deck surface.  This will definitely shorten the life of the stained surface.  

Gently clean your deck once or twice a season to keep debris and dirt from the deck surface.  Doing so can extend the life of the product applied.

7.)  There are more variables and conditions to think about, but this should cover some of the major areas.  The best advice, if it is possible, go to a paint store (Benjamin Moore retailer or Sherwin Williams, or similar) and provide them information about some of the questions above.  They will be able to ask a few more questions and recommend the best product for your situation.  If you don't want to do the project yourself, they can usually recommend a trusted professional.  Try to stay out of a big box store as they typically don't have the best knowledge or training.  

Pictured is a deck during the cleaning process, removing dead wood fiber. The lower portion of the photo has been cleaned and the upper section still has the dead wood fiber.

The second picture is during the staining process.  The deck was sanded after cleaning and allowing to dry.  Stain one board at a time and keep a wet edge to avoid lap marks. Staining in pairs with a helper if possible is best.

Hope that helps and good luck with your project!

Mike

Another option, which I have not used myself, is used a lot in Houston.  https://www.plylox.com/  This company sells a clip that is attached to 1/2"plywood, and you can typically get them at your local Home Depot. 

From their website: 

PLYLOX™ window clips are patented h-shaped carbon steel clips engineered to fit 1/2" plywood without nails, screws or adhesives. There is no longer any need to drill holes in brick in order to protect your windows from storm damage.

Just an FYI...  Good luck.

I agree wholeheartedly with the excellent answer provided by Christi at Callen Construction that your problem is probably caused by the different coefficient of thermal expansion of the materials involved.  And yes a fiberglass window would be a good solution, but a wood window would also solve the problem.

To put some numbers to the expansion and contraction properties of window material, with 10 as the worst performance and 1 as the best, here's how they stack up:  vinyl - 10, composite (like Andersen Renewal Fibrex) - 4.5, actual fiberglass (like Pella Impervia or Marvin Integrity) 1.4, wood 1.0.

Don't discount a clad wood window if you like the aesthetics- it will perform well if properly sized and installed.

If basement ceiling is unfinished or has drop ceiling you can usually run 1 1/4" screws from underneath.  It is best to have a helper finding the squeaks and try to measure from the outside walls in order to find proper placement of the screws.  Top nailing the boards is a temporary fix at best.  

Oftentimes the attic is the place to start.  Make sure you have plenty of ventilation, both intake and exhaust.  Check the soffit cavity to make sure you it isn't clogged with insulation.  There are formulas for Square foot of attic in relation to ventilation.  If you have a vapor barrier in the ceilling a ration of 1:300 sf is ok, otherwise about 1:150 is the rule. Second, check the insulation.  All air escaping into the attic should be sealed using spray foam or other sealants. Next, depending on your geographic location, make sure you have plenty of insulation in the attic.  Finally, something as simple as installing blinds over windows can be an economical solution to saving on energy costs.  As recommended in some of the other answers, an energy audit or getting advice from any number of qualified professionals that are willing to visit your home is the best place to start.

Interior chimneys are at least 4" larger in all four directions than the flue they contain. A chimney containing a 12"x12" clay flue liner must be at least 20" by 20". Combustible materials must be kept at least 2" away from the outside of the chimney walls. Exterior chimneys only need to be 1" away from the exterior combustible wall of the house.

By code the chimney must extend at least three feet above the roof and two feet above any part of the roof within ten feet. Cast in place or use a pre-cast concrete chimney cap with a drip edge and caulk the joint between the cap and the top flue liner with a silicon sealant.

In Seismic areas place a #4 steel reinforcing bar in each corner of the chimney, preferrably in the cells of the brick or block, and grout solid. If you must place the reinforcing steel between the flue liner and the surrounding masonry we recommend wrapping the flues with 1/8" ceramic fiber paper "socks" before placing the grout to allow the flue liners a lttle room to expand without cracking the exterior masonry. Tie the surrounding masonry horizontally every 18" with steel ladder or K-web, or pencil rod in the bed joints. Exterior chimneys must be anchored at each floor and roof.

The surround (the area at least 6" wide around the fireplace opening) can be finished with brick, stone, tile, terra cotta, slate, marble - almost any decorative masonry material. 100 years ago fireplace surrounds were often finished with ordinary plaster and sometimes painted black. The surround should not be used to lower the opening of the fireplace. The part of the surround over the fireplace opening should be just low enough to cover the edge of the rounded Rumford throat and not so low that it might cause unwanted turbulence.

I am assuming your home is ducted and has a forced air system.  If you you only have 1 furnace and 1 condenser, it my be more energy effecient to expend to two units.  I recommend Lennox.  You can also look at installing spilt units like these made by Fujitsu:

http://www.fujitsugeneral.com/products.htm

These are designed so that you can cool a room/rooms individually.  I suggest calling a few licensed HVAC contractors and get 3 quotes.