Ask questions and get answers from experienced industry professionals
It would be difficult to prescribe a proper floor without specific knowledge of the conditions - how much moisture, and where is it coming from? As well, it is always better to think of most anything in a home as a complete system. By that I mean, proper preparation of the substrate (the concrete) including some manner of vapor / moisture barrier and/or other assembly to mitigate the moisture or its effects.
Additionally, consideration of the space function and/or requirements for use, aesthetics, etc.
There are moisture-resistant / moistureproof flooring materials such as LVT. However, I am always concerned that these non-breathable coverings might trap moisture beneath, and create ideal conditions for mold growth - a problem which may be invisible but harmful.
I know... the concern and prospective solutions may seem simple, but - for the RIGHT answer, no so much. Summarily, there are rarely easy answers to such questions without a more-thorough analysis which can / should really only be done by professional examination of the space. For that, engage a professional designer / archtect and/or a well-educated remodeling professional.
Best answered by an attorney in your state. In Virginia, we have a very simple legal filing called a "warrant in debt" which demands collection of such debts. The process varies by state; hopefully there is a simple means to make your claim in Georgia, as the legal fees for filing and pursuing a full-blown lawsuit would likely well exceed the amount due back to you.
You may also consider filing a formal complaint with the professional licensure board. In Georgia, that is a division of the Secretary of State. See:
Misapplication of construction funds is a serious offense. You will have to determine with your attorney whether you wish to pursue.
Georgia has a criminal statute, O.C.G.A. §16-8-15, titled: Conversion of payments for real property improvements. This statute provides a criminal cause of action if:
Any contractor, sub, or other person who with intent to defraud shall use the proceeds of any payment made to him on account of improving certain real property for any other purpose than to pay for labor or services performed on or materials furnished by his order for this specific improvement while any amount for which he may be or become liable for such labor, services, or materials remains unpaid commits a felony.
The difference between new construction and replacement is how much of the existing material they remove/replace, and how the windows are secured to the opening.
In new construction, they remove everything on both sides of the wall, interior and exterior. In replacement, they only remove the inside trim and the window box. I think I have that right? New construction allows you to really look at both the interior and exterior of the opening and make sure you don't have dry rot, make corrections to square/plumb/etc, and nail directly into whatever all that stud/framework stuff is called, but can cause minor/cosmetic damage to the exterior, esp to stucco. Replacement is just removing the interior trim, popping out the old window box and popping in the new one. In my case, they even used the old trim, just nailed it back up and caulked around it.
I had my windows popped out and replaced, primarily because I'm in a 65yo stucco rancher in an area that did a lot of building with redwood. Conventional wisdom says that is exactly the kind of house you should do a new construction installation, rip everything out and have a good look around, but I know I'm only going to be here until my kids graduate from college and when I sell the house it will be razed for a McMansion, like every other house on my block. I just need to get another 10 years out of it, I don't want to put a single $ in I don't have to.
Two things I did not anticipate:
One, my installation did NOT include any touch-up type work, I was responsible for any cosmetic touch-up repair and repainting of interior wall and trim affected by the replacement.
Two, when you put dual-pane acrylic windows where there used to be single-pane wood, you lose nearly all of the interior casing/frame/jamb, whatever you call that part that you would use for an "inside mount" of any kind of shade. I didn't realize I wouldn't be able to use any of the pleated, honeycomb or black-out shades I'd just ordered...
The window (frame) surface is cold, but the air in the apartment is humid. Humid air condenses on a cold surface (when it drops below the dewpoint temperature).
So you can either make the window frame surface warmer, or you can make the air less humid.
Another approach to making the air less humid is to run the air-conditioner, but that makes the house very cold. The dehumidifier usually makes the air warmer, so it's probably preferred, although way less capacity. Some fancy houses have dedicated whole house dehumidifiers (but maybe they also have better windows!).
Window films (the type that shrink with a hair-dryer) attached to the window trim/casing can keep the humid inside air away from the cold surfaces. Added bonus of keeping cold air leaking through windows out of the house.
Are you a building professional?
Why not answer these questions like a pro?Sign up free