Ask questions and get answers from experienced industry professionals
If you have not done so already, it helps to drain the system at the lowest point. Meaning apply the shut off valve first, open the faucet at the lowest point (usually in the basement or hose bib) so the system can drain, then open a faucet at the highest point. This will allow air into the system and allow it to drain more quickly. Much like releasing your finger off the top of a full drinking straw.
We hope it helps!
It depends on the faucet and whether the faucet has an aereator. Even when the valve is turned into the off positions, there is still some residual water in the faucet, and aereator. Once all of the water on the room side of the faucet has drained out, the dripping will stop.
Theoretically, there is no lower or upper temperature limit governing when asphalt fiberglass shingles may be applied as long as appropriate precautions are taken.
? In cold weather, for easiest handling, temperatures should be above 40° F.
? In hot weather, for easiest handling, temperatures should be below 90° F.
Those are the recommended temperatures, if you really need a need roof as long as you get 2 or more days above 30° F. you will be cover.
If the tue does not leak when it is sitting full of water, try looking at the seal around the fill spouts and on/off handles. We see a lot of leaks in those areas in tubes that are 15 or more years old.
The BEST way would be infrared image testing. Only top-tier roofing companies will have them, so may be hard to locate in rural areas. However, the technology is getting older, and the cameras that were $1k, 2 years ago, are around $399.99. Its a solid investment, and requires none of the old, trial and error methods.
In my personal home which has high quality windows, we also suffered condensation. We generate moisture by breathing, cooking, and bathing. If you have casement windows with screens on the inside, you might be surprised just how much those screens prevent convection airflow and keep cooler air closer to the window glass. We solved the problem in our home using a combination of 3 actions.
1) We remove our window screens every winter.
2) We open our window shades all the way every morning and leave them open all day long.
3) We have timers on our bathroom fans and run them for about 4 hours per day in addition to the 10 or 20 minutes of bathing time.
4) Bonus: We always run our kitchen vent fan when we are cooking to remove moisture (and odors) from the house.
I hope that helps. In the end, it's all physics. It's about the dew point, which is the surface temperature at which the relative humidity condenses. It can happen with cheap or expensive windows.
By the way: If there is air leakage around the window, this is going to exacerbate the problem. So doing a call-back to the installer or a 3rd party energy-rating company would help if the other solutions don't work.
Home Advisor recomments the following: http://www.homeadvisor.com/tloc/Saint-Louis-MO/Inspection-Roofing/
Yelp recommends these people https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Roof+Inspection&find_loc=Saint+Louis%2C+MO
1) Fiberglass tubs are notorious for getting hairline cracks that usually open up when someone is standing in it with the water running.
2) Also it might be a leak from upstream (plumbing behind the walls going in) such as a leaking copper pipe or loose pex fitting. It could also be in your drainage as well.
3) Is it a one piece shell? Sometimes fiberglass units come in 1, 2 or more pieces and can leak at the seams. Use a sealant to fil in these seams if you have any.
4) I've actually seen windows in a tub unit leak rain, etc behind the unit and it appeared as if the tub was leaking.
Your best bet may be to pull out the unit and see where the leaking appears to be happening.
Condensation from the differential temperature is of course on answer. The other and more concerning is the furnace or force air unit (FAU). I would recommend contacting a licenced heating contractor and ask them to check the replacement air going to the FAU. The old windows were letting in a lot of air. What air was acting as replacement air for the furnace. With the new windows you are no longer supplying replacemet air to the furnace.
See Pella’s Understanding Condensation fact sheet at:
HDR Remodeling Inc
The fact that you can lift the door to get it to latch tells me that it is likely the installer did not install long screws through the top hinge into the 2" x 4" or 2" x 6" that creates your opening in your wall. Often installer rely on nails to support the weight of the door, but nails will allow the door to sag over a period of time. Verify that there is at least one, but preferabbly two long (2" at least) screws through the top hinge. If not, you can use a cordless drill driver to run the screws in. This usually easily draws the door back up to where it belongs. This is rarely caused by a foundation issue, or cause for a new door.
Are you a building professional?
Why not answer these questions like a pro?Sign up free