Answers

Without question you should invest your money in Fiber Cement Siding for the following reasons:

1. Authentic and more tranditional appearance.

2. Better fire rating.

3. Does not fade like vinyl.

4. Higher Return on Investment. 

5. The ability to paint your house should you choose, down the road.

6. Will not warp, buckle or move on the walls.

7. The trim finshes that can be achieved with Fiber Cement are not possible with vinyl.

How would you like to have been the last person on your block to have bought Aluminum Siding 30 years ago?  That is the reality of today's exterior cladding market.  The vinyl industry is scambling but have yet to come up with a viable alternative to Fiber Cement. There are some new composites that are starting to make inroads but they are still too costly and are in limitied profiles.

Be sure to choose a Perfered James Hardie Contractor so you know all the best practices will be followed in accourdace with the manufactuere's specifications.

Unlike vinyl, Hardie Board needs a skilled craftsman to insure a propoer and long lasting installation.

Michael Damora

K & B Home Remodelers 

Before you do anything new...look at what is already there. 

1. Do the existing windows allow drafts?  Upgrade existing windows first before considering new windows.  I don't think the payback is that great over existing windows that are properly maintained. 

2. Is the header serviced annually?  Change the filter monthly (there are so cheap), check all the ducts for breaks and tape them up.  Walk around the house when the heater(s) are on and check the temperatur in each room.  When you have done your homework then have a profeswsional come in.

3. Seal around the ceiling can lights on the second floor that are allowing heater air into the attic. 

4. Replace the seal around all your exterior doors.  This is really the case on the door from the garage to the house. 

Start there \Philp Anderson HDR Remodeling Berkeley CA

There is mudh information about how to find an architect/designer for new home construction or remodeling additions. Unfortunately, many decisions end up being based on numbers, specifically the cost estimate to prepare the design and specifications. Basing such an important decision and arguably one of the largest investments of your life on mere numbers is at least incomplete and at worst, a potential nightmare scenario.

 It is recommended that  a comprehensive approach be undertaken  that admittedly takes a little more time than just providing an initial cost estimate but one that can result in truly finding the firm for your unique situation and budget.

It starts with identifying what's "right" for you, a unique definition that requires a solid vision for your project and some personal introspection. For instance, if you are planning on undertaking a large whole house remodel or a contemporary/modern design style, you should look at architects and/or design/build firms in your area that specialize in and have a track record of building those types of projects.

Narrow that list by investigating each company's websites, calling their references if available, the Better Business Bureau, and your local building association chapter.

You should consider the types of personalities you like and respond to best.  You won't know if you're 'compatible' until you meet face-to-face. If you're confident in one firm either from your research or a strong referral, you may not feel the need to meet with any other candidates. But if you are truly starting your search from scratch, without a referral from a trusted source, it is suggested that  you develop a short list of 3-4 firms and invite them to make a presentation in your home -- as much to glean their methods as to gauge compatibility and their interest in your project.

At those meetings, be open and honest about your project. If you have a draft fllor plan or inspiration photos, show them. Request that each candidate bring photos of projects that are similar to yours in style and size. Inquire about how they differentiate themselves from their peers.

Finally, ask each candidate on how they price their services and, in turn, share your project budget, There's no sense in trying to forge a good working relationship if you are not forthcoming about what you can afford..

Once you find an architect or design/build firm that's earned your confidence in their skills, understanding of your project, and (most important) their ability to communicate with you, it's time to refine and sign a contract and get them involved in the project as soon as possible. 

A tankless water heater can certainly be installed in a condominium - similar to any other structure. The easiest model is one that mounts externally - typically near the highest use of hot water or midway between multiple usage points. If there is some distance between the use locations, you can also install a D'mand pump to "call" the hot water so you are not wasting water waiting for the hot water to arrive. If you install a unit on the interior of your unit, e.g., in the previous water heater closet, the unit will require venting.  And - FYI - one reason people love to install an on-demand is that you can actually repurpose a former water heater closet creating more useable space in your condo.   One last piece of important information, you will need to check the size of your incoming water line.  Typically water lines are 3/4 inches in diameter.  On-demand units require incoming water lines of one inch.  So you may need to upgrade your plumbing to accomodate the increased size of your incoming water lines.  I hope that helps.

Bathrooms, depending on size and complexity, typically range from $4,000 upwards of $30,000+.  It depends on many variables.  Are you replacing what you have or changing the layout of your bathroom?  Here are some options to consider and there is much information to gain by looking on the internet.  You can install a standard tub or jet tub.  If you install a jet tub, does it have an in-line heater and do you need to increase the capacity of your hot water heater?  You can install flooring from the most budget conscious vinyl to in-floor heated tile.  Do you want an acrylic surround in your shower space or do you want to install tile or solid surface surround?  Single shower head or sidewall spray?  You also have the option of Steam shower, but consider ventilation and again hot water capacity.  It is wise to do your research on the internet to get ideas and even learn what questions to ask.  It would be good to speak to at least 3 experienced and credentialed contractors.  Make sure they have been in business and at their location for at least 5 years.  You may check out our website at http://www.croixco.com/  and click on our Pinterest account in the upper right corner.  Once you have entered Pinterest, look under Bathrooms to see pictures that may give you some ideas.

Bryan-

If you mean that the walls are 2 x 4 and framed already below the screens and you just want to replace the screens with windows, then you have a few options depending on your budget.

The most expensive we've done involved replacing the screens with Pella Designer Series casements and picture windows with miniblinds inside the glass.  A picture window with blinds can be made up to 59 inches wide, and a casement that will crank open has a maximum frame width of 35 inches.  That customer was very pleased with the result, and he had budgeted extra for the premium windows. Figure $1200 to $1500 per opening for that option.

The least expensive we've done involved Pella Impervia fiberglass sliding windows and we installed a couple of 6 foot wide 2-panel units and a couple of 9 foot wide 3-panel units.  They are strong, look like painted wood not vinyl, are energy-efficient and offer a lot of ventilation.  Unlike the casement windows that crank out and are somtimes problematic with backyards or walkways nearby, sliders can be opened with no projection.  Figure about half as much to do that.

Of course you can use single or double-hung windows but it would take 2 or 3 to fill the opening that a single slider can, and the slider will give you more visible glass and the same ventiliation.  The customer that used the sliders lived across from the beach, and he actually removes the venting panel from each of his sliders for the summer and puts it back in for the winter.  However he had a pretty wide overhang to keep out the summer rains.

As far as the A frame you can of course install triangular shaped windows to let light in and keep the cold out.  Consider something with a stronger Low-E coating in the glass to keep out the sun's heat. 

All of the above of course might require beefing up the framing below and between the windows to accept the extra weight over the screens.

Good luck with your project!

Joe

Unfortunately, no, applying another layer of laminate is not a viable option. Most homeowners do not have the proper tool to adequately heat the surface to adhere the laminate, as the adhesive typically used is heat activated as well as time cured. In addition, the pre-existing laminate will prove to be too smooth for the adhesive to bond well, and will likely lead to the new laminate peeling after a short time.

That being said, however, there are several options for a new countertop, which are designed to "sit" on top of the pre-existing countertop and wrap over the front of the old. They usually add approximately 1/2 to 3/4 inch to the height and overall depth of the counter while not actually increasing the counter space available for use. I would suggest hiring a professional for the installation, though a handy homeowner could do it themselves. The fact that they are lighter than their standard solid counter top counterparts, and won't require much new framing or shoring of old structures, makes these more inexpensive than a brand new countertop. They also come in many materials, making it possible to have the look of a quartz, solid surface or other countertop, without all of the expense.

John H.

Biehl Brothers Contracting LLC.

In my personal home which has high quality windows, we also suffered condensation. We generate moisture by breathing, cooking, and bathing. If you have casement windows with screens on the inside, you might be surprised just how much those screens prevent convection airflow and keep cooler air closer to the window glass. We solved the problem in our home using a combination of 3 actions.

1) We remove our window screens every winter.

2) We open our window shades all the way every morning and leave them open all day long.

3) We have timers on our bathroom fans and run them for about 4 hours per day in addition to the 10 or 20 minutes of bathing time.

4) Bonus: We always run our kitchen vent fan when we are cooking to remove moisture (and odors) from the house.

I hope that helps. In the end, it's all physics. It's about the dew point, which is the surface temperature at which the relative humidity condenses. It can happen with cheap or expensive windows.

By the way: If there is air leakage around the window, this is going to exacerbate the problem. So doing a call-back to the installer or a 3rd party energy-rating company would help if the other solutions don't work.

After 30 days most likely areas that might have issues are any fixtures or appliances- mostly they have an issue right away or are good for many years! Also, check under your sinks to make sure that the use of the sinks and faucets hasn't allowed any of the fittings to come loose. We use brass fittings and traps, but many contractors have moved to plastic which can become loose with initial use. Another thing we find occasionally is that 3/4/5 way switches might not have been wired properly, which sometimes only becomes apparent when someone starts living in the home. If you have a home control system, that can be something that might need to be tweaked or adjusted for your use. Using everything, making sure that everything works, those things are key in the first 30 days- Good luck!

What type of fence are you leaning toward? Once you get into the larger fences, they are typically 4 or 3 board style horse fences.

We have looked at and studied every type of gutter guards on the market. We have been pitched all of them and looked at every one on the market. 

What we have found for a succesful gutter cover. 

1. It needs to  attach to the gutter and under the shingles or to roof edge. (this is critical to give the gutter strength. If done correctly the gutters will be several times stronger) this will help with ice wieght and over all longer lasting gutter system.

2. Must be attached at a slight angle away from the roof. if a cover is level or below the gutter line. Debri will sit on the cover and potentially get inside. You want the cover to be able to shed debri not allow debri to sit on it.

3. Needs to handle enough water, wind, and ice weight.

4. Hooded systems work best. This allows water to go in and keep derbi out. A screen system is not near as good. There are a few good micro screens on the market. They keep derbi out. Only problem is like and filter they need to be cleaned. So every few years you will need to get up a clean them.

5. Cannot attach itself to brackets. This is a weakness and will cause failers. Especially in high wind areas. 

6. Installed by someone trained. There are decent covers out there but if they are not installed propertly they will not work.

7. no cover on the market that is 100%. You can get small amounts of debri in the gutter. However if a gutter is installed properly they will drain and small bits of dirt etc will wash out. They do not without covers because the leaves cause dams and do not allow it to drain. With covers it keeps out the debri causes dams. 

All that said the cover we have had the most succes with is Gutter Topper. We have installed thousands of feet of covers. We have had only 2 job fail. Both were due to improper installs. Once we discoverd what we were doing wrong havent had a problem since. (several years ago) We have had unbelievable success with gutter topper.