Answers

That is going to vary depending on where you live, the particulars of your home construction, as well as particulars of your planned "pop-top".  Here in Richmond, VA, the structure and exteriors, plus a window or two for a relatively narrow dormer runs in the $10-12,000 range... before you make interior renovations to the bathroom which presumably you may be seeking.

I am guessing that you may be interested in something wide than a 3-4 foot typical dormer.  Well, things become much more structurally complicated in a Cape roof, the wider this pop-top becomes.  As the roof loads become asymmetrical, beams and opposing side structural work will likely become involved (ie: you may have to add structure on the OTHER side of the house, and a beam at the peak of the roof... possibly posting-down to the foundation, to balance the load).  I have seen those go to $30,000+... again, before you start adding in the bath renovations below.  I know; sounds shocking but in order to maintain the structural integrity of your roof, these things may be neccessary.

When you are looking for a professional contractor to successfully bring your home remodeling project to life, you need to make sure you do your homework.

Below are 6 things to consider before hiring a contractor:

1.What is their track record? How long have they been working in the area?

Check out the home remodeling companies you are considering on the Better Business Bureau’s website as well as other sites like Angie’s List. Read testimonials on review websites and look over company websites for portfolios and comments from past clients.

2.What are their credentials? Are they licensed? Bonded? Insured?

States set their own requirements about licenses, but most states have an agency that homeowners can contact to confirm a contractor’s license and credentials. Ask for proof of bonding to make sure your contractor is current on his/her credentials. Insurance puts the liability on the contractor if something goes wrong during the project. Not all insurance is created equal, make sure to ask for a copy of their insurance certificate to verify they have General Liability, Workers’ Compensation, and Auto coverages.

3.Do they have references? Will they provide you with a past client list?

Use a past client list to talk with the people your client has worked with before. Ask them if the contractor delivered what was promised on time and at the agreed upon budget. Also ask about how easy or difficult it was to communicate with the contractor.

4.How will they communicate with you? How do you reach them after hours?

Make sure you agree on how you will communicate with your contractor and if you need weekly in person meetings to get your questions answered.

5.Will they be getting all the required building permits for the project?

While the homeowner pays the cost of the building permits, the contractor should be the one responsible for obtaining the permits.

6.How will the payment schedule be arranged?

For replacement work never pay the entire amount before the project starts. Payment schedules vary from company to company, but there is usually a deposit and payment installments based on certain stages of completion.

Just as you are asking questions about your contractor, your contractor will be asking questions about you and your home remodeling project. It is important that you are aware of the questions your contractor should NOT be asking you.

Sometimes a contractor is trying to find out information about a project, but he/she may phrase questions in a way that makes the homeowner feel uncomfortable.

Listed below are some questions your contractor should NOT ask you:

1.Are you widowed?

2.Do you have money in your savings account?

3.How much money do you make?

4.Will you be alone when I arrive?

5.What is your credit score?

6.May I see your other bids before I present mine?

In Angie Hicks’s article, “3 Questions Your Contractor Shouldn’t Ask,” from Angie’s List she explains how home improvement contractors can be more tactful when they request information from clients.

Check out the article here: https://www.angieslist.com/articles/3-questions-your-contractor-shouldnt-ask.htm

They are definitely measured differently.  The insert window you would measure inside the existint window frame, which in most cases is built out of 3/4" lumber all the way around.  For a full replacement window, you can remove the interior casing and include that frame within your measurement.  In regards to our answer, better late than never.  If this process becomes a pain in the "sash" simply consult a professional.  Make it a great day!

In my personal home which has high quality windows, we also suffered condensation. We generate moisture by breathing, cooking, and bathing. If you have casement windows with screens on the inside, you might be surprised just how much those screens prevent convection airflow and keep cooler air closer to the window glass. We solved the problem in our home using a combination of 3 actions.

1) We remove our window screens every winter.

2) We open our window shades all the way every morning and leave them open all day long.

3) We have timers on our bathroom fans and run them for about 4 hours per day in addition to the 10 or 20 minutes of bathing time.

4) Bonus: We always run our kitchen vent fan when we are cooking to remove moisture (and odors) from the house.

I hope that helps. In the end, it's all physics. It's about the dew point, which is the surface temperature at which the relative humidity condenses. It can happen with cheap or expensive windows.

By the way: If there is air leakage around the window, this is going to exacerbate the problem. So doing a call-back to the installer or a 3rd party energy-rating company would help if the other solutions don't work.

There is mudh information about how to find an architect/designer for new home construction or remodeling additions. Unfortunately, many decisions end up being based on numbers, specifically the cost estimate to prepare the design and specifications. Basing such an important decision and arguably one of the largest investments of your life on mere numbers is at least incomplete and at worst, a potential nightmare scenario.

 It is recommended that  a comprehensive approach be undertaken  that admittedly takes a little more time than just providing an initial cost estimate but one that can result in truly finding the firm for your unique situation and budget.

It starts with identifying what's "right" for you, a unique definition that requires a solid vision for your project and some personal introspection. For instance, if you are planning on undertaking a large whole house remodel or a contemporary/modern design style, you should look at architects and/or design/build firms in your area that specialize in and have a track record of building those types of projects.

Narrow that list by investigating each company's websites, calling their references if available, the Better Business Bureau, and your local building association chapter.

You should consider the types of personalities you like and respond to best.  You won't know if you're 'compatible' until you meet face-to-face. If you're confident in one firm either from your research or a strong referral, you may not feel the need to meet with any other candidates. But if you are truly starting your search from scratch, without a referral from a trusted source, it is suggested that  you develop a short list of 3-4 firms and invite them to make a presentation in your home -- as much to glean their methods as to gauge compatibility and their interest in your project.

At those meetings, be open and honest about your project. If you have a draft fllor plan or inspiration photos, show them. Request that each candidate bring photos of projects that are similar to yours in style and size. Inquire about how they differentiate themselves from their peers.

Finally, ask each candidate on how they price their services and, in turn, share your project budget, There's no sense in trying to forge a good working relationship if you are not forthcoming about what you can afford..

Once you find an architect or design/build firm that's earned your confidence in their skills, understanding of your project, and (most important) their ability to communicate with you, it's time to refine and sign a contract and get them involved in the project as soon as possible. 

Unfortunately, no, applying another layer of laminate is not a viable option. Most homeowners do not have the proper tool to adequately heat the surface to adhere the laminate, as the adhesive typically used is heat activated as well as time cured. In addition, the pre-existing laminate will prove to be too smooth for the adhesive to bond well, and will likely lead to the new laminate peeling after a short time.

That being said, however, there are several options for a new countertop, which are designed to "sit" on top of the pre-existing countertop and wrap over the front of the old. They usually add approximately 1/2 to 3/4 inch to the height and overall depth of the counter while not actually increasing the counter space available for use. I would suggest hiring a professional for the installation, though a handy homeowner could do it themselves. The fact that they are lighter than their standard solid counter top counterparts, and won't require much new framing or shoring of old structures, makes these more inexpensive than a brand new countertop. They also come in many materials, making it possible to have the look of a quartz, solid surface or other countertop, without all of the expense.

John H.

Biehl Brothers Contracting LLC.

A tankless water heater can certainly be installed in a condominium - similar to any other structure. The easiest model is one that mounts externally - typically near the highest use of hot water or midway between multiple usage points. If there is some distance between the use locations, you can also install a D'mand pump to "call" the hot water so you are not wasting water waiting for the hot water to arrive. If you install a unit on the interior of your unit, e.g., in the previous water heater closet, the unit will require venting.  And - FYI - one reason people love to install an on-demand is that you can actually repurpose a former water heater closet creating more useable space in your condo.   One last piece of important information, you will need to check the size of your incoming water line.  Typically water lines are 3/4 inches in diameter.  On-demand units require incoming water lines of one inch.  So you may need to upgrade your plumbing to accomodate the increased size of your incoming water lines.  I hope that helps.

Bryan-

If you mean that the walls are 2 x 4 and framed already below the screens and you just want to replace the screens with windows, then you have a few options depending on your budget.

The most expensive we've done involved replacing the screens with Pella Designer Series casements and picture windows with miniblinds inside the glass.  A picture window with blinds can be made up to 59 inches wide, and a casement that will crank open has a maximum frame width of 35 inches.  That customer was very pleased with the result, and he had budgeted extra for the premium windows. Figure $1200 to $1500 per opening for that option.

The least expensive we've done involved Pella Impervia fiberglass sliding windows and we installed a couple of 6 foot wide 2-panel units and a couple of 9 foot wide 3-panel units.  They are strong, look like painted wood not vinyl, are energy-efficient and offer a lot of ventilation.  Unlike the casement windows that crank out and are somtimes problematic with backyards or walkways nearby, sliders can be opened with no projection.  Figure about half as much to do that.

Of course you can use single or double-hung windows but it would take 2 or 3 to fill the opening that a single slider can, and the slider will give you more visible glass and the same ventiliation.  The customer that used the sliders lived across from the beach, and he actually removes the venting panel from each of his sliders for the summer and puts it back in for the winter.  However he had a pretty wide overhang to keep out the summer rains.

As far as the A frame you can of course install triangular shaped windows to let light in and keep the cold out.  Consider something with a stronger Low-E coating in the glass to keep out the sun's heat. 

All of the above of course might require beefing up the framing below and between the windows to accept the extra weight over the screens.

Good luck with your project!

Joe

After 30 days most likely areas that might have issues are any fixtures or appliances- mostly they have an issue right away or are good for many years! Also, check under your sinks to make sure that the use of the sinks and faucets hasn't allowed any of the fittings to come loose. We use brass fittings and traps, but many contractors have moved to plastic which can become loose with initial use. Another thing we find occasionally is that 3/4/5 way switches might not have been wired properly, which sometimes only becomes apparent when someone starts living in the home. If you have a home control system, that can be something that might need to be tweaked or adjusted for your use. Using everything, making sure that everything works, those things are key in the first 30 days- Good luck!

We have looked at and studied every type of gutter guards on the market. We have been pitched all of them and looked at every one on the market. 

What we have found for a succesful gutter cover. 

1. It needs to  attach to the gutter and under the shingles or to roof edge. (this is critical to give the gutter strength. If done correctly the gutters will be several times stronger) this will help with ice wieght and over all longer lasting gutter system.

2. Must be attached at a slight angle away from the roof. if a cover is level or below the gutter line. Debri will sit on the cover and potentially get inside. You want the cover to be able to shed debri not allow debri to sit on it.

3. Needs to handle enough water, wind, and ice weight.

4. Hooded systems work best. This allows water to go in and keep derbi out. A screen system is not near as good. There are a few good micro screens on the market. They keep derbi out. Only problem is like and filter they need to be cleaned. So every few years you will need to get up a clean them.

5. Cannot attach itself to brackets. This is a weakness and will cause failers. Especially in high wind areas. 

6. Installed by someone trained. There are decent covers out there but if they are not installed propertly they will not work.

7. no cover on the market that is 100%. You can get small amounts of debri in the gutter. However if a gutter is installed properly they will drain and small bits of dirt etc will wash out. They do not without covers because the leaves cause dams and do not allow it to drain. With covers it keeps out the debri causes dams. 

All that said the cover we have had the most succes with is Gutter Topper. We have installed thousands of feet of covers. We have had only 2 job fail. Both were due to improper installs. Once we discoverd what we were doing wrong havent had a problem since. (several years ago) We have had unbelievable success with gutter topper. 

Bathrooms, depending on size and complexity, typically range from $4,000 upwards of $30,000+.  It depends on many variables.  Are you replacing what you have or changing the layout of your bathroom?  Here are some options to consider and there is much information to gain by looking on the internet.  You can install a standard tub or jet tub.  If you install a jet tub, does it have an in-line heater and do you need to increase the capacity of your hot water heater?  You can install flooring from the most budget conscious vinyl to in-floor heated tile.  Do you want an acrylic surround in your shower space or do you want to install tile or solid surface surround?  Single shower head or sidewall spray?  You also have the option of Steam shower, but consider ventilation and again hot water capacity.  It is wise to do your research on the internet to get ideas and even learn what questions to ask.  It would be good to speak to at least 3 experienced and credentialed contractors.  Make sure they have been in business and at their location for at least 5 years.  You may check out our website at http://www.croixco.com/  and click on our Pinterest account in the upper right corner.  Once you have entered Pinterest, look under Bathrooms to see pictures that may give you some ideas.

Dan, Both Hardie Plank and a 3/4" and 1.5" insulating foam board are good options. There is also the choice of using Insulated Siding that is a custom contoured foam backer. It fits to the specifications of the siding panel you choose. Best, Ken

John Ford, There are an abundance of energy efficiency upgrades you can do to your 2-story home. A question to your question - do you have a small or a larger budget? Small budget - 2 options: Attic Insulation or A Foil Energy Barrier, one example is Green Energy Barrier. Blown-In Attic Insulation is inexpensive and can help with an additional R-value of 18-60 in your attic. A Foil Energy Barrier - can be placed along the rafters or floor boards and is a foil used by NASA that greatly assists with energy efficiency. Larger budget - 3 solid options: Solar panels, Replacement Windows with Krypton gas, or Insulated Siding, an insulation with a system R-value of a 4.2 that contours to your siding panel. Best, Ken 

Supplies needed: 

hopper gun and compressor (available for rental at home-center stores), paint tray, paint suit and glasses, stepladder , putty knife, paint mixer, paint roller, masking tape, drop cloths, ceiling texture, primer sealer, spackle

Here are the steps you need to take to get the job done: 

1. Fill any dents or imperfections in the ceiling with spackle, and then apply a coat of primer with a roller. Allow the primer to dry at least four hours.

2. While it's drying, mask off the walls and floor with masking tape and tarps, plastic sheets or drop cloths. 

3. Wearing proper protective clothing and goggles, pour some texture mix into a large bucket and mix according to directions. Use a paint-mixer attachment to achieve a nice blend. The mixture is ready when it's the consistency of thick porridge.

4. Fill the hopper with texture mixture and fire up the compressor. Practice spraying on an old board or a large piece of cardboard to get the feel of the machine.

5. Lightly spray the mixture onto the ceiling, and keep moving to avoid oversaturating any area. Use multiple light coats and allow the texture time to dry between coats. If you spray the texture on too thickly, it will drip off the ceiling.