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If you have not done so already, it helps to drain the system at the lowest point. Meaning apply the shut off valve first, open the faucet at the lowest point (usually in the basement or hose bib) so the system can drain, then open a faucet at the highest point. This will allow air into the system and allow it to drain more quickly. Much like releasing your finger off the top of a full drinking straw.
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I aggree with everyone above. In our experience the most common thing that tends to happen in the design process is that the design tends to overrun the budget and often there can be delays and added expense as a result.
Phillip and Clifton have it right on. That's our reference as well. Digging one level deeper, the biggest bang for your buck generally comes from direct replacement projects. Meaning, if you need to move the systems (plumbing, HVAC ect) for a remodel, less money is invested into the fixtures and finishes that people get to see. We wish you all the best with your project!
Hello Debbie, I would ask how that was determined. I think that fact that the question was brought up in the first place really raises a red flag. In my experience, if there was a question about changing the laod on a structure an engineer should have been consulted. I would ask the contractor to make things right based off the advise of an engineer. Note-If this contractor is a roofer, I would not think that would be a good fit for the repairs.
We wish you the best,
Unfortunately, no, applying another layer of laminate is not a viable option. Most homeowners do not have the proper tool to adequately heat the surface to adhere the laminate, as the adhesive typically used is heat activated as well as time cured. In addition, the pre-existing laminate will prove to be too smooth for the adhesive to bond well, and will likely lead to the new laminate peeling after a short time.
That being said, however, there are several options for a new countertop, which are designed to "sit" on top of the pre-existing countertop and wrap over the front of the old. They usually add approximately 1/2 to 3/4 inch to the height and overall depth of the counter while not actually increasing the counter space available for use. I would suggest hiring a professional for the installation, though a handy homeowner could do it themselves. The fact that they are lighter than their standard solid counter top counterparts, and won't require much new framing or shoring of old structures, makes these more inexpensive than a brand new countertop. They also come in many materials, making it possible to have the look of a quartz, solid surface or other countertop, without all of the expense.
Biehl Brothers Contracting LLC.
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