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They are definitely measured differently. The insert window you would measure inside the existint window frame, which in most cases is built out of 3/4" lumber all the way around. For a full replacement window, you can remove the interior casing and include that frame within your measurement. In regards to our answer, better late than never. If this process becomes a pain in the "sash" simply consult a professional. Make it a great day!
It can vary widely based on what kind of window you have now (aluminum, wood, vinyl, etcl) as well as if you have brickmould casing on the exterior etc. It can be up to 5" different. Just let the professionals who are going to order your windows take exact measurements for you so they can take all of that into consideration. I agree with Michael that you should defnitely NOT order based on those measurements. You don't want to be repsonsible for purchasing wrong sized product if it doesn't fit. They can't be returned.
Yes, we agree with other answers. Common household condensation, or "sweating" on windows is caused by excess humidity or water vapor in a home. When this water vapor in the air comes in contact with a cold surface such as a mirror or glass window, it turns to water droplets that is called condensation. All homes have occasional condensation, such as a little fogging on the windows, and is no cause for concern.
In my personal home which has high quality windows, we also suffered condensation. We generate moisture by breathing, cooking, and bathing. If you have casement windows with screens on the inside, you might be surprised just how much those screens prevent convection airflow and keep cooler air closer to the window glass. We solved the problem in our home using a combination of 3 actions.
1) We remove our window screens every winter.
2) We open our window shades all the way every morning and leave them open all day long.
3) We have timers on our bathroom fans and run them for about 4 hours per day in addition to the 10 or 20 minutes of bathing time.
4) Bonus: We always run our kitchen vent fan when we are cooking to remove moisture (and odors) from the house.
I hope that helps. In the end, it's all physics. It's about the dew point, which is the surface temperature at which the relative humidity condenses. It can happen with cheap or expensive windows.
By the way: If there is air leakage around the window, this is going to exacerbate the problem. So doing a call-back to the installer or a 3rd party energy-rating company would help if the other solutions don't work.
Condensation from the differential temperature is of course on answer. The other and more concerning is the furnace or force air unit (FAU). I would recommend contacting a licenced heating contractor and ask them to check the replacement air going to the FAU. The old windows were letting in a lot of air. What air was acting as replacement air for the furnace. With the new windows you are no longer supplying replacemet air to the furnace.
See Pella’s Understanding Condensation fact sheet at:
HDR Remodeling Inc
You have condensation on your new windows. This is common with new windows that are air sealing your home better than the old ones. It also means you have humidity in the air in your home that is attracted to the coldest surfaces. A glass of cold water will do the same thing. Winter time will bring cold temperatures which will cool the glass of the windows. Check to make sure the humidity in the home is 30-50% and wide the water off the windows and window sills. Opening shades or blinds to allow air flow may also help.
Remember also that the window will need to be tempered glass, if you try to DIY this project. While you should consult with a local remodeler (find a chapter of NARI near you, or a Builders Association, a local NAHB affiliate... or better yet, find a pro here on GuildQuality with great ratings!) if you are simply looking for a range of prices to help you decide feasiblity, I can tell you this much: I can't imagine any circumstances that would allow this to be done right for less than $2000, and it could possibly be as much as $5000 (and hopefully not more) if it was an extremely difficult situation or an unusual window. I hope that helps. Good luck!
Condensation is caused by high humidity in the home. Often times when you get your windows replaced from single pane wood to a double pane vinyl - you will notice this issue. Older windows tend to have more leaks in them, allowing the excess moisture to escape - therefore it will not form on the window. . . but once you eliminate that escape, the moisture will start to sit on the window. This can be a problem if you have not treated the wood on your sills / trim work - so make sure you do that. Also, get a humidistat and you can google ways to control the humidity in your home.
Hope this helps!
I'm from Wisconsin and we have a program called Focus on Energy which implements the ENERGY STAR program for improving energy efficiency of older homes. I'm not sure what you have in your region, but I specifically recommend starting with an expert company that can do a blower door test on your home and use an infrared camera to detect where you have air leakage and heat loss.
The number one cause of heat loss is air leakage. So insulation alone will not solve that problem. Leaky ring joists in the basement where the walls, floor, and foundation meet are one culprit... there is generally lots of inward air leakage here. And in the attic, there are a bunch of sources of air leakage, where warm air wants to rise and escape up and out. (So by the way, ice dams on the roof are not solved by adding more attic ventilation; rather they are solved by first doing air sealing, and second verifying or improving insulation.)
If you intend to DIY this, you can still hire a consultant to do the pre-testing and post-testing, and you might even be eligible for some financial incentives. If you hire a professional company to do it, the cost can be reduced by those incentives.
If you won't hire a pro, then here's a few rules of thumb:
1) Remove fiberglass insulation from ring joists, and either use spray foam or rigid foam to insuate the ring joist, use spray foam to seal the rigid foam in place, minimum 2" thick and you can always fit the fiberglass insulation back in place again when complete.
2) Spray foam over top of wall plates in the attic.
3) Put a gasked on your attic hatch. If you have an attic ladder, buy a specific air sealing enclosure to prevent air leakage through it.
4) Find out if your recessed can lights are IC (Insulation Contact) rated or not. They will be labeled if they are. Build a sealed box around them allowing air space for heat build-up, and consider converting to LED lights so that there is less heat generated. If not IC rated, use cault to seal them to the drywall or plaster, and to close up the holes in the lights themselves.
That's a primer on things... there is more to be done, but these can help!
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