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Check the weepholes and make sure they are not clogged. These holes allow water to drain outside of the window, and are on both sides of the window. If they are clogged then the water will drain wherever it can - inside your walls and house. When the window is closed, you are making it harder for the water to get inside. I suggest taking the tip of a knife and just cleaning them out to see if that helps.
Is there a leak when it's raining or is it just when the window is open in general? If it's simply when the window is open, then there could be several varying possible reasons as to why the basement leaks, solely when the window remains open. Bad timing, as off putting as that sounds. If it's when the window is open during a rain fall, the window could have lost its seal. Rain could leak in through the wall and then to the basement ceiling. If that's the case, I would recommend a new window seal, or replacing the entire window altogether. If you have further questions or concerns, please feel free to call our office. 403-343-0393. Thank you!
Hey Geoffrey! To leave a review for a GuildQuality member, simply search for the company on our Find a Contractor page, and then click on their profile. In the upper right-hand corner, you will see a button that either says "Add Feedback" or "Leave Review". Once we receive your feedback, we'll mail you a postcard with instructions on how to verify and publish your review. We rely on this verification process to ensure that all feedback published is from actual customers. Let us know if you have any other questions!
If you go to the contractor's guildquality profile, or search for the contractor on guildquality's home page. See Attachment, and then once you go to their profile you can select the blue button that says Add Feedback, you can then select write a review or complete survey if you have a code for the survey. Hope this helps.
Pamela, there are a lot of window replacement options on the market. It's important to have a window which is designed for your region in the U.S. here is a chart by energy star which contains this info: https://www.energystar.gov/products/building_products/residential_windows_doors_and_skylights/key_product_criteria
If one is in your area, see if a local business manufactures windows tailored for your portion of the U.S. Avoid builder grade replacements, and try to work with companies which have been in business for 30+ years who can stand behind the warranties they provide. Always read the fine print, and make sure a remodeler will warranty the installation.
There are many great door & window product lines to choose from. The most important consideration is the glass package and style. I recommend consulting with a few glass companies and door/window contractors to help with the decision. You need to choose your doors and windows based on location - cliamate zone. Marvin is top of the line, but it is extremely expensive, just like Renewal by Andersen. I recommend looking at Milgard, Jeld-Win and Andersen (not Renewal). Good Luck!
Murray Lampert Design, Build, Remodel
Like Jim said before, a proper attic insulation will help with lowering your electric bill as well as heat reflective roof shingles and exterior paint, ex. tex-cote. For windows we use Anlin, 100% american made using the newest heat reflective technology. GreenLiving specializes in exterior energy efficient home improvements!
Windows that have a .28 u factor or. Slightly lower, if installed correctly sealing the perimeter with foam are generally adequate for most homes. They will have low -e and argon normally in the csvity between the insulated glass. Now if you want to go for triple glazed glass and low e and Krypton glass, you can get down to .17 u. Generally the additional cost and added weight do not pay for the added expense. You may do well to also add insulation in the attic and make sure you ventilate the soffit and fascia. Heat tends to travel up. Make sure you get a good installer that know s how to insulate and do a quality install.
Did this just happen three years after installation or could this have been there from the time of installation and you didn't notice. Sometimes this can happen, especially on older homes that have old wooden windows where the installers use something like a chisel to literally "bust out" the old exterior blind stops on the window when installing replacement windows from the exterior. The old wood can be very dense and hard to chip off. The force of hitting on the exterior could cause this type of thing or as someone else said, could have a shim putting pressure against the back side of the interior trim. You probably would have noticed that kind of damage right away though.
Typically a 70 year old house has already settled so you wouldn't think that was the cause, unless you are having some other kind of structural problems with the home. If it were water, I would imagine you would see some kind of staining or drips on the interior as well.
It's really difficult to say, unfortunately. It could be installation related, but would be hard to say without pulling off the metal wrap on the exterior (assuming they were wrapped) and seeing what is going on.
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