Show All
Show Answers
Show Open Questions
Show Most Popular

Topic: Structural repairs & reinforcement

Mar 27, 2017
May 24, 2017

I agree that you need a structural engineer. The longer you wait the more damage that could occure if it continues to move

Mar 27, 2017
May 4, 2017

I would recommend hiring a structural engineer to review and recmmend repairs not something you should let go. 

Feb 18, 2014
Dec 21, 2015

You might consider trying to add a new layer of ceiling drywall using GreenGlue sound proofing adheasive. This gets installed without removing anything too, it should be noted . This will be the most inexpensive aproach but may not be a complete cure. And you'll only lower the ceiling by about 5/8".

 You can look up Green Glue on the web for more info and where to to purchase.

Feb 18, 2014
Dec 10, 2015

If you don't want to loose ceiling height, you will need to remove the celing covering to gain access to the floor joist cavities.

A product we've had great sucess with is Roxul (http://www.roxul.com/residential/create+a+quiet+home/which+safe+n+sound).

Martin Boyd asked:

Jun 14, 2015
Dec 10, 2015

Dennis is correct, NARI is a great resource.

Locate a contractor that has a good relationship with a structural engineer. Between the two, they should be able to come up with a good solution.

Martin Boyd asked:

Jun 14, 2015
Jun 17, 2015

You can also use the GuildQuality "Find a Contractor" at the top of the webpage. THere you can find local contractors. I agree with Dennis that NARI is also another great option.

Martin Boyd asked:

Jun 14, 2015
Jun 15, 2015

Begin by going to www.NARI.org and find a chapter of the National Association of the Remodeling Industry in your area. NARI members are held to a high standard and they commit to a Standard of Ethics in writing. On www.NARI.org you can look for design build contractors with Certified Remodelers (CR) and Certified Lead Carpenters (CLC) on staff. The contractor will know if they need the services of a structural engineer (P.E.) to specify what needs to be done. You're welcome to contact me directly with your questions.

Dennis D. Gehman, CR, MSA, CLC, CKBR, CAPS

President

Gehman Design Remodeling

PA 000297

355 Main Street

Harleysville, PA 19438-2417

O 215-513-0300

F 215-513-1280

dennis@gehmanremodeling.com

www.gehmanremodeling.com

NARI = National Association of the Remodeling Industry

CR = NARI Certified Remodeler

MSA = CertainTeed Master Shingle Applicator

CLC = NARI Certifled Lead Carpenter

CKBR = NARI Certified Kitchen & Bath Remodeler

CAPS = Certified Aging in Place Specialist

Dave Will asked:

Jun 9, 2014
Oct 2, 2014

You said your basement is made of treated wood? As in there is no concrete or masonry walls below grade?

If that is the case, my first suggestion to you would be to hire a contractor to excavate around your house, demo the basement walls, and replace them with concrete or masonry, followed by correctly installed waterproofing and draining backfill. This will not be an easy or cheap fix. Your insurance may help cover the cost of this repair.

I have never seen a below grade basement built with wood. That just doesn't make sense.

If you do have masonry or concrete walls, and they are leaking, especially through treated plywood that is attached to them, this is an indicator of a more serious problem outside. You may need to excavate around the house and replace the soil with a different type that allows for rapid drainage and prevents any sort of hydraulic pressure from building against your walls. Soil such as sand or gravel, or a mix of the two is ideal for this purpose. Also you should install proper waterproofing against the exterior walls to prevent water from contacting the wall at all.

Hydraulic pressure is incredibly powerful, and if you are experiencing water accumulation and build up sub grade against your house, and it is pushing through the wall, then no product you apply to the wall will stop it or be effective. You have to resolve the cause of the problem first.

Hope this helps.

Feb 18, 2014
Oct 2, 2014

Unfortunately I think WoW Home Solutions answered you correctly. This is an issue that should have been addressed in the planning phase by a forward thinking builder and/or architect, and at the latest in the building phase (assuming you had your home built; if it was a production tract home, then I'm sorry... and prepare yourself for more problems down the road....). Now that your home is completed, there is no easy or cheap remedy to this issue.

The only thing I can suggest that may work (emphasis on may/might/maybe) is to strip the existing drywall off the ceiling and replace it with soundboard. Insulate with spray foam (professional application) while it's all opened up. The spray foam will absorb some of the vibration and deaden the transfer of noise.

Dave Will asked:

Jun 9, 2014
Aug 15, 2014

The basement is leaking through the foundation or block wall?  If so, there is nothing you can put on it that will keep the water back if there is enough of it outside the wall.

You need to fix the water issue on the exterior or allow for drainage to the interior in a controlled method. 

Dave Will asked:

Jun 9, 2014
Aug 6, 2014

Here is a product that is safe and non-toxic for waterproofing walls and even floors. They have various products for different needs. Hope this is helpful, good luck! 

Product Details

Dave Will asked:

Jun 9, 2014
Jun 10, 2014

I don't recall where I saw it, but there is a product (similar to door & window flash, but wider) that goes on the plywood, along with a primer. You would need to start the application down at the footing and overlap it to just above grade.

Are you a building professional?

Why not answer these questions like a pro?

Sign up free