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You might consider trying to add a new layer of ceiling drywall using GreenGlue sound proofing adheasive. This gets installed without removing anything too, it should be noted . This will be the most inexpensive aproach but may not be a complete cure. And you'll only lower the ceiling by about 5/8".
You can look up Green Glue on the web for more info and where to to purchase.
If you don't want to loose ceiling height, you will need to remove the celing covering to gain access to the floor joist cavities.
A product we've had great sucess with is Roxul (http://www.roxul.com/residential/create+a+quiet+home/which+safe+n+sound).
Dennis is correct, NARI is a great resource.
Locate a contractor that has a good relationship with a structural engineer. Between the two, they should be able to come up with a good solution.
Begin by going to www.NARI.org and find a chapter of the National Association of the Remodeling Industry in your area. NARI members are held to a high standard and they commit to a Standard of Ethics in writing. On www.NARI.org you can look for design build contractors with Certified Remodelers (CR) and Certified Lead Carpenters (CLC) on staff. The contractor will know if they need the services of a structural engineer (P.E.) to specify what needs to be done. You're welcome to contact me directly with your questions.
Dennis D. Gehman, CR, MSA, CLC, CKBR, CAPS
Gehman Design Remodeling
355 Main Street
Harleysville, PA 19438-2417
NARI = National Association of the Remodeling Industry
CR = NARI Certified Remodeler
MSA = CertainTeed Master Shingle Applicator
CLC = NARI Certifled Lead Carpenter
CKBR = NARI Certified Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
CAPS = Certified Aging in Place Specialist
You said your basement is made of treated wood? As in there is no concrete or masonry walls below grade?
If that is the case, my first suggestion to you would be to hire a contractor to excavate around your house, demo the basement walls, and replace them with concrete or masonry, followed by correctly installed waterproofing and draining backfill. This will not be an easy or cheap fix. Your insurance may help cover the cost of this repair.
I have never seen a below grade basement built with wood. That just doesn't make sense.
If you do have masonry or concrete walls, and they are leaking, especially through treated plywood that is attached to them, this is an indicator of a more serious problem outside. You may need to excavate around the house and replace the soil with a different type that allows for rapid drainage and prevents any sort of hydraulic pressure from building against your walls. Soil such as sand or gravel, or a mix of the two is ideal for this purpose. Also you should install proper waterproofing against the exterior walls to prevent water from contacting the wall at all.
Hydraulic pressure is incredibly powerful, and if you are experiencing water accumulation and build up sub grade against your house, and it is pushing through the wall, then no product you apply to the wall will stop it or be effective. You have to resolve the cause of the problem first.
Hope this helps.
Unfortunately I think WoW Home Solutions answered you correctly. This is an issue that should have been addressed in the planning phase by a forward thinking builder and/or architect, and at the latest in the building phase (assuming you had your home built; if it was a production tract home, then I'm sorry... and prepare yourself for more problems down the road....). Now that your home is completed, there is no easy or cheap remedy to this issue.
The only thing I can suggest that may work (emphasis on may/might/maybe) is to strip the existing drywall off the ceiling and replace it with soundboard. Insulate with spray foam (professional application) while it's all opened up. The spray foam will absorb some of the vibration and deaden the transfer of noise.
The basement is leaking through the foundation or block wall? If so, there is nothing you can put on it that will keep the water back if there is enough of it outside the wall.
You need to fix the water issue on the exterior or allow for drainage to the interior in a controlled method.
I don't recall where I saw it, but there is a product (similar to door & window flash, but wider) that goes on the plywood, along with a primer. You would need to start the application down at the footing and overlap it to just above grade.
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