Ask questions and get answers from experienced industry professionals
I will have to disagree with the last answer. Whether they work or not depends on the vegetation. I don't care for the reverse curl systems because of their tendency to overshoot during heavy rains. We use a grate style cover that keeps out 95% of the stuff and 99.99% of the stuff that forms clogs. We haven't had one clog in 10 years and the system that we specify catches all the rain.
This type of staining (algae as the other posters have said) will usually only happen on the North facing surface of the roof. Same with condensation on your car glass. Suprisingly, the North facing sky will actually remove heat from a substrate and thus make the roof surface colder.
Colder roof surface = condensing surface. The moisture combined with the organic component will combine for a great growing surface (that the the rock dust organic component of the shingle).
It is not surprising that it is happeing more after you insulated the home. By insulating (a good thing), you have reduced the heat sink between the roof and the conditioned space below and therfore made the roof colder in the process. Colder roof...same as stated above.
Plenty of roof washes out there that will handled most of this stuff and it does not mean the roof is cooked.
+1 to Jeffrey's answer below.
Most of the observed deficiences that we see in EIFS are the result of poor installation and flashing details. Almost all the push off failures that are seen now are the result of poor water management and water getting behind the EIFS and pushing it off the substrate.
See if it can't be fixed and flashed properly before ripping it all off.
There is no short, easy, or inexpensive answer here. In order to get a better handle on the situation and make appropriate suggestions, I would need to see more pictures.
There is not much right with that set-up as it stands not though.
Grading is bad to start with and grading and gutter routing are the two most frequent issues that I see when folks have basement water infiltration issues.
The amount of mildew growth on the side indicates that this wall stays consistently wet.
Post up some more pictures and I will give you some more pointed feedback and recommendations.
Expansion and contraction, as mentioned previously, is a big driver of sealant failure.
The other part that was not discussed in moisture content. Brick is largely moisture open and capillary draw of moisture will keep the brick wet and can cause the sealant to fail.
If the home is new construction, the sealant that was used is cheap in most cases and was probably poorly applied. Sealing large gaps requires the application of backer rod or some sort of backstop to apply the sealant to.
The expansion rates are different for different materials but they aren't as dramatically different from one another often thought of.
For example, Fiberglass is often touted as a much better material because of its more analogous coefficient of linear expansion with glass than vinyl. That is true but it is not 7X less likely to expand than PVC. More like 2X in most cases.
Wood has a verly low expansion rate as related specifically to temperature but is moisture driven as Christi was referencing with the humidity statement.
Are you a building professional?
Why not answer these questions like a pro?Sign up free