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Condensation from the differential temperature is of course on answer. The other and more concerning is the furnace or force air unit (FAU). I would recommend contacting a licenced heating contractor and ask them to check the replacement air going to the FAU. The old windows were letting in a lot of air. What air was acting as replacement air for the furnace. With the new windows you are no longer supplying replacemet air to the furnace.
See Pella’s Understanding Condensation fact sheet at:
HDR Remodeling Inc
I would recommend starting with making sure all the existing windows and securely closed and locked. I find windows partly open because they have been painted that way. Take some time to make sure each window closes properly add weather stripping as needed.
Add wather stripping to all doors
check that all the heating ducts are connected securely
There are a very wide veriety of gas fireplace inserts.
1. Check with the city to see what you can install. Some cities are now requiring sealed units
2. Do not try runing a gas line by yourself. Hire a licensed plumber to do it.
3. http://www.csia.org/?gclid=CL_Qk-SZ0dACFZBefgodOrUNRA Contact a CSIA certified chimney sweep to help you install.
HDR Remodeling Berkeley Ca
I would recommend a licenced mason Please don't have a handyperson do it. It will look terrible and may not withstand an siemic even properly.
i would call some of the licenced home builder in your area and ask them who they would recommend/
We recently were asked to lay some beautiful recyeled tiles salvaged from an apartment building lobby in Paris. But they were too thick by a little over an inch and you would end up with a trip hazzard
We pulled the floor, the sub floor and with engineering, lowered to top edge of the floor joistes, replaced the sub floor, install backer board and then the tile so that it came out perfectly flat.
Expensive but the end result was beautiful.
Set up includeing Dust Containment field, reverse air flow and floor protection
Demo concreete work, framing, roofing
Mud and tape
Cabinets and fixtures
Photo Pizza Party
Each phase should show labor (both in house and sub), materials broken out
Hope this helps
I would agree...let you contractor know immeately by a phone all that you are excersising your 3 day option. Then follow the cancellation by the letter of the law.
I would recommend that you keep it professional, short an if possible friendly. If the contractor wants to know how they could have done it better, please be factural and not immotional.
Here is a fairly good article on the subjecct.
"Radiant barrier spray-on paint is essentially liquid foil. While not all radiant barrier paints are the same, basically they are made by grinding pure aluminum into a fine powder and then mixing it into clear paint. Once the clear paint dries the aluminum powder forms a layer of aluminum.
The best radiant barrier spray spray is only available to commercial contractors, and is an environmentally safe, water-based low-e paint called HeatBloc-75, Radiance e.25 or Lo/MIT. When the paint is installed correctly, it will reflect about 75% of the radiant heat and can be a very good product.
Getting good results with radiant barrier paint assumes a couple of things:
The rafters are being sprayed completely (this usually costs more when you get an estimate).
The paint is being applied with the correct coverage (many contractors put it on either too thin or too thick).
The paint is not diluted. There are some contractors (even large ones who advertise heavily) that will cut* the paint with water in order to extend the coverage. *Cutting is when water is added to paint; it is cheating to cut costs.
As a result, the true effectiveness of radiant barrier paint installed by many contractors is really only about 15-40% reflectivity. The typical consumer can’t tell the difference between a good installation and a poor job without testing.
Radiant barrier paint spray is not a good Do It Yourself (DIY) project. The fumes are noxious, you must use a VOC respirator, a high-end airless spray rig, the proper size spray tip, and the proper pressure to get correct coverage and eliminate clogging. Forget about painting with a roller because it is impossible since there are thousands of nails sticking through the roof deck; additionally, using a paint brush to manually paint it on would take forever. Most people who try to do it themselves will actually blow too much paint and the material cost alone will be over $0.30/ft. With the cost of radiant barrier foil only being less than $0.13/ft, it’s obvious it is not only a better product, but a better deal.
Different Brands of Paint & Testing Results
reflective coatings comparisons chartMany companies have developed radiant barrier spray paint. In fact, none are true radiant barriers since they all reflect less than 90% of the heat which is the definition of a true radiant barrier; technically they are reflective coatings. Below is a chart with some test results by RIMA (Reflective Insulation Manufacturers Association) which did independent testing on all the different radiant barrier paints.
Notice that the best paint still emits 22% of the radiant heat, compared to only 3% for radiant barrier foil. Some paints claim to be award winning, although what award they are receiving still remains to be identified or significant.
Additionally, the paint tests were conducted on perfectly smooth samples, applied under laboratory conditions; these conditions are different than your attic. Your attic is made up of porous wood that loves to soak up paint instead of keeping it on the surface to create a smooth, shiny film, which would be required to be fully effective. In order for paint to come close to the tested emissivity rating, the wood surface must be primed with a primer/base coat of paint first.
Why You Should Use Radiant Barrier Foil
The main reason you should consider the foil over the paint is because with the paint you are basically counting on the product to deliver results, while with the foil you are simply needing the person (which may be yourself) to get the installation done. So long as the foil is installed somewhere between the roof/rafters and the insulation, it will reflect 97% of the radiant heat.
This is indisputable; radiant barrier foil works!
Furthermore, it is actually difficult to install the foil wrong. This is the main difference between Quality Assurance and Quality Control. You can assure that reflective foil will work; while you can only hope that the reflective coating is installed correctly. We do not sell or install radiant barrier paint; we only sell radiant barrier reflective foil insulation because it is the best.
The problem occurs when reflective paint is put on too thin or when water is added to the paint/an inferior cheap paint is used. Then what? Then the customers do not get the results or the cool attic they are promised.
To offset this disappointment, some companies have resorted to doing things like giving away free solar fans. Sure, if you put an attic fan in the attic it will decrease the attic temperature and could even get it close to outside temperature; however, it doesn’t matter what kind of fan it is, a fan will not stop any radiant heat transfer. A cooler attic is nice, but what we really need to do is reduce the temperature of the insulation. For more information, read our article about air temperatures versus surface temperatures and how they affect your home.
this is very common in new homes. I would work with the builder first. That is the easiest way to correct the problem. They are in the buiness of building home and need good referrals I would try the builder again and you would be surprised at the outcome with a softer approach.
Here is an interesting take on the situation that I got out of the real estate section of the New York Times.http://www.nytimes.com/2003/03/23/realestate/your-home-eliminating-wasps-and-their-nests.html?pagewanted=all
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