Dan, Both Hardie Plank and a 3/4" and 1.5" insulating foam board are good options. There is also the choice of using Insulated Siding that is a custom contoured foam backer. It fits to the specifications of the siding panel you choose. Best, Ken

John Ford, There are an abundance of energy efficiency upgrades you can do to your 2-story home. A question to your question - do you have a small or a larger budget? Small budget - 2 options: Attic Insulation or A Foil Energy Barrier, one example is Green Energy Barrier. Blown-In Attic Insulation is inexpensive and can help with an additional R-value of 18-60 in your attic. A Foil Energy Barrier - can be placed along the rafters or floor boards and is a foil used by NASA that greatly assists with energy efficiency. Larger budget - 3 solid options: Solar panels, Replacement Windows with Krypton gas, or Insulated Siding, an insulation with a system R-value of a 4.2 that contours to your siding panel. Best, Ken 

Supplies needed: 

hopper gun and compressor (available for rental at home-center stores), paint tray, paint suit and glasses, stepladder , putty knife, paint mixer, paint roller, masking tape, drop cloths, ceiling texture, primer sealer, spackle

Here are the steps you need to take to get the job done: 

1. Fill any dents or imperfections in the ceiling with spackle, and then apply a coat of primer with a roller. Allow the primer to dry at least four hours.

2. While it's drying, mask off the walls and floor with masking tape and tarps, plastic sheets or drop cloths. 

3. Wearing proper protective clothing and goggles, pour some texture mix into a large bucket and mix according to directions. Use a paint-mixer attachment to achieve a nice blend. The mixture is ready when it's the consistency of thick porridge.

4. Fill the hopper with texture mixture and fire up the compressor. Practice spraying on an old board or a large piece of cardboard to get the feel of the machine.

5. Lightly spray the mixture onto the ceiling, and keep moving to avoid oversaturating any area. Use multiple light coats and allow the texture time to dry between coats. If you spray the texture on too thickly, it will drip off the ceiling.

They are definitely measured differently.  The insert window you would measure inside the existint window frame, which in most cases is built out of 3/4" lumber all the way around.  For a full replacement window, you can remove the interior casing and include that frame within your measurement.  In regards to our answer, better late than never.  If this process becomes a pain in the "sash" simply consult a professional.  Make it a great day!

When you are looking for a professional contractor to successfully bring your home remodeling project to life, you need to make sure you do your homework.

Below are 6 things to consider before hiring a contractor:

1.What is their track record? How long have they been working in the area?

Check out the home remodeling companies you are considering on the Better Business Bureau’s website as well as other sites like Angie’s List. Read testimonials on review websites and look over company websites for portfolios and comments from past clients.

2.What are their credentials? Are they licensed? Bonded? Insured?

States set their own requirements about licenses, but most states have an agency that homeowners can contact to confirm a contractor’s license and credentials. Ask for proof of bonding to make sure your contractor is current on his/her credentials. Insurance puts the liability on the contractor if something goes wrong during the project. Not all insurance is created equal, make sure to ask for a copy of their insurance certificate to verify they have General Liability, Workers’ Compensation, and Auto coverages.

3.Do they have references? Will they provide you with a past client list?

Use a past client list to talk with the people your client has worked with before. Ask them if the contractor delivered what was promised on time and at the agreed upon budget. Also ask about how easy or difficult it was to communicate with the contractor.

4.How will they communicate with you? How do you reach them after hours?

Make sure you agree on how you will communicate with your contractor and if you need weekly in person meetings to get your questions answered.

5.Will they be getting all the required building permits for the project?

While the homeowner pays the cost of the building permits, the contractor should be the one responsible for obtaining the permits.

6.How will the payment schedule be arranged?

For replacement work never pay the entire amount before the project starts. Payment schedules vary from company to company, but there is usually a deposit and payment installments based on certain stages of completion.

Just as you are asking questions about your contractor, your contractor will be asking questions about you and your home remodeling project. It is important that you are aware of the questions your contractor should NOT be asking you.

Sometimes a contractor is trying to find out information about a project, but he/she may phrase questions in a way that makes the homeowner feel uncomfortable.

Listed below are some questions your contractor should NOT ask you:

1.Are you widowed?

2.Do you have money in your savings account?

3.How much money do you make?

4.Will you be alone when I arrive?

5.What is your credit score?

6.May I see your other bids before I present mine?

In Angie Hicks’s article, “3 Questions Your Contractor Shouldn’t Ask,” from Angie’s List she explains how home improvement contractors can be more tactful when they request information from clients.

Check out the article here: https://www.angieslist.com/articles/3-questions-your-contractor-shouldnt-ask.htm

That is going to vary depending on where you live, the particulars of your home construction, as well as particulars of your planned "pop-top".  Here in Richmond, VA, the structure and exteriors, plus a window or two for a relatively narrow dormer runs in the $10-12,000 range... before you make interior renovations to the bathroom which presumably you may be seeking.

I am guessing that you may be interested in something wide than a 3-4 foot typical dormer.  Well, things become much more structurally complicated in a Cape roof, the wider this pop-top becomes.  As the roof loads become asymmetrical, beams and opposing side structural work will likely become involved (ie: you may have to add structure on the OTHER side of the house, and a beam at the peak of the roof... possibly posting-down to the foundation, to balance the load).  I have seen those go to $30,000+... again, before you start adding in the bath renovations below.  I know; sounds shocking but in order to maintain the structural integrity of your roof, these things may be neccessary.