Answers

Best answered by an attorney in your state.  In Virginia, we have a very simple legal filing called a "warrant in debt" which demands collection of such debts.  The process varies by state; hopefully there is a simple means to make your claim in Georgia, as the legal fees for filing and pursuing a full-blown lawsuit would likely well exceed the amount due back to you.

You may also consider filing a formal complaint with the professional licensure board.  In Georgia, that is a division of the Secretary of State.  See:

https://sos.ga.gov/index.php/licensing/plb/46

Misapplication of construction funds is a serious offense.  You will have to determine with your attorney whether you wish to pursue.

Georgia has a criminal statute, O.C.G.A. §16-8-15, titled: Conversion of payments for real property improvements. This statute provides a criminal cause of action if:

Any contractor, sub, or other person who with intent to defraud shall use the proceeds of any payment made to him on account of improving certain real property for any other purpose than to pay for labor or services performed on or materials furnished by his order for this specific improvement while any amount for which he may be or become liable for such labor, services, or materials remains unpaid commits a felony.

If the tue does not leak when it is sitting full of water, try looking at the seal around the fill spouts and on/off handles.  We see a lot of leaks in those areas in tubes that are 15 or more years old.  

Let's hear it for Elon Musk and his efforts to move the solar industry forward!  Solar shingles have lots of potential. Hopefully, Tesla and Solar City will get it right.  We used solar shingles about 15 years ago when installing a new roof and encountered some issues: 1) They were expensive! I would recommend getting a quote for both traditional PV panels versus the shingles and see what pencils out. The cost of PV has come down significantly in the last couple of years. Once you get the quote, be sure and compare the cost/efficiency/performance ratios of the two systems. 2) Maintenance can be an issue. There are more electrical connections with a roof shingle system vs a traditional PV system. More things to create potential problems. The shingles are typically installed in "strings" - where mulitple shingles work together in units.  If one shingle has a problem, the entire string "goes down". Check to see how Solar City addressses this issue: can you easily identify where the bad shingle is and be able to replace it easily?  Otherwise the efficiency of your system is compromised significantly.  Another maintenance issue is keeping all the shingles clean.  There is more work to wash down an entire roof periodically to remove dirt buildup than there is for a traditional PV system. 3) Availability: Is Tesla/Solar City providing the units in Atlanta?  It may take them some time to gear up their distribution and train people to install them properly.  Both important things to consider.

All that being said, it certainly makes sense to have your roof generate power for you!  Regardless of whether you go the traditional PV system or shingles route.  Best of luck!

Here is a fairly good article on the subjecct.

"Radiant barrier spray-on paint is essentially liquid foil. While not all radiant barrier paints are the same, basically they are made by grinding pure aluminum into a fine powder and then mixing it into clear paint. Once the clear paint dries the aluminum powder forms a layer of aluminum.

The best radiant barrier spray spray is only available to commercial contractors, and is an environmentally safe, water-based low-e paint called HeatBloc-75, Radiance e.25 or Lo/MIT. When the paint is installed correctly, it will reflect about 75% of the radiant heat and can be a very good product.

Getting good results with radiant barrier paint assumes a couple of things:

The rafters are being sprayed completely (this usually costs more when you get an estimate).

The paint is being applied with the correct coverage (many contractors put it on either too thin or too thick).

The paint is not diluted. There are some contractors (even large ones who advertise heavily) that will cut* the paint with water in order to extend the coverage. *Cutting is when water is added to paint; it is cheating to cut costs.

As a result, the true effectiveness of radiant barrier paint installed by many contractors is really only about 15-40% reflectivity. The typical consumer can’t tell the difference between a good installation and a poor job without testing.

Radiant barrier paint spray is not a good Do It Yourself (DIY) project. The fumes are noxious, you must use a VOC respirator, a high-end airless spray rig, the proper size spray tip, and the proper pressure to get correct coverage and eliminate clogging. Forget about painting with a roller because it is impossible since there are thousands of nails sticking through the roof deck; additionally, using a paint brush to manually paint it on would take forever. Most people who try to do it themselves will actually blow too much paint and the material cost alone will be over $0.30/ft. With the cost of radiant barrier foil only being less than $0.13/ft, it’s obvious it is not only a better product, but a better deal.

Different Brands of Paint & Testing Results

reflective coatings comparisons chartMany companies have developed radiant barrier spray paint. In fact, none are true radiant barriers since they all reflect less than 90% of the heat which is the definition of a true radiant barrier; technically they are reflective coatings. Below is a chart with some test results by RIMA (Reflective Insulation Manufacturers Association) which did independent testing on all the different radiant barrier paints.

Notice that the best paint still emits 22% of the radiant heat, compared to only 3% for radiant barrier foil. Some paints claim to be award winning, although what award they are receiving still remains to be identified or significant.

Additionally, the paint tests were conducted on perfectly smooth samples, applied under laboratory conditions; these conditions are different than your attic. Your attic is made up of porous wood that loves to soak up paint instead of keeping it on the surface to create a smooth, shiny film, which would be required to be fully effective. In order for paint to come close to the tested emissivity rating, the wood surface must be primed with a primer/base coat of paint first.

Why You Should Use Radiant Barrier Foil

The main reason you should consider the foil over the paint is because with the paint you are basically counting on the product to deliver results, while with the foil you are simply needing the person (which may be yourself) to get the installation done. So long as the foil is installed somewhere between the roof/rafters and the insulation, it will reflect 97% of the radiant heat.

This is indisputable; radiant barrier foil works!

Furthermore, it is actually difficult to install the foil wrong. This is the main difference between Quality Assurance and Quality Control. You can assure that reflective foil will work; while you can only hope that the reflective coating is installed correctly. We do not sell or install radiant barrier paint; we only sell radiant barrier reflective foil insulation because it is the best.

The problem occurs when reflective paint is put on too thin or when water is added to the paint/an inferior cheap paint is used. Then what? Then the customers do not get the results or the cool attic they are promised.

To offset this disappointment, some companies have resorted to doing things like giving away free solar fans. Sure, if you put an attic fan in the attic it will decrease the attic temperature and could even get it close to outside temperature; however, it doesn’t matter what kind of fan it is, a fan will not stop any radiant heat transfer. A cooler attic is nice, but what we really need to do is reduce the temperature of the insulation. For more information, read our article about air temperatures versus surface temperatures and how they affect your home.

You should find someone more competant, the major appliances should be on their own breaker (furnace on a 20a breaker and gas tankless on another 15 or 20a). It can be normal to spread out the circuit recepticals in a few rooms so if a breaker trips in a room there would be another receptical in that same room on another breaker so your not left in the dark. Also the panel should be properly labled. Good luck.

Be certain that this is something you plan to use for years and years as the ROI on homeowner-specific improvements are not very high.  Budget for the concrete work involved is usually around $15-20K alone, not including the poles and painting.  If you plan to sell your home in less than 10 years or would need the court for less than 10 years, don't do it.  A new upgraded entry way, minor kitchen update, interior room/living space addition or new Hardie Board siding will give you a much better return on investment.

GAVIGAN PLAN FOR SUCCESS

ANDY, YOUR CONCERNS ARE VALID AND ERIC & CHRIS are Spot on...   COMMUNICATE AND I WOULD ADD VALIDATE. Here in the Lowcountry concerns are the same for soem clients.

Protect your custom build by Video monitoring and third party inspections by actual inspectors. In the age of Video monitoring a simple data and power drop allows 24/7 video monitorings for the owner and Contractor. Most cable compabnies will run the data drops since you will use them after. (We provide this service free now for our owners out of market.)

- Validation of Lien Releases & Material Lien based on scopes and agreements, the pitfalls are in the contractual managament

- Notice of commencement filed at the County Gov't (Best 15-50 dollars an owner and GC can spend)

- video updataes weekly or pictures ( GOOGLE + | FACEBOOK | OR A MANAGEMENT SOFTWEAR )

You must haVe a good relationship, trust your builder, and Confirm

TRUST & CONFIRM

BILLY GAVIGAN, PRES GAVIGAN

CONGRATS ON THE CUSTOM HOME......

All of the answers given were great options. There are many, many ways to improve a home's energy efficiency. As we are a siding and window company, my focus will be on those areas. Windows are a huge energy loss/gain. Did you know that windows and doors account for approximately 50% of your heating/cooling loss? Air leaks around a window or door due to a crack of 1/16" of an inch is like having a hole in your wall the size of a brick. In the average home, that is equal to about 15 bricks. Consider how large that "hole" is in your home. The glass package is the most important thing to consider when replacing windows. Most folks just look at the cost of the window and install, and some smoke and mirrors some companies like to drag on about. A smart homeowner knows what Low-E is, what a good U-Factor rating is, whether or not it's single, double or triple pane glass, etc. etc. Same features apply to most doors. Lastly, siding is another area where a homeowner can save money. Check into insulated siding. Check to see what kind of underlayment is being applied to your home. Many companies don't even put a housewrap on to save cost and the average homeowner never knows. Make sure you only hire someone who is appropriately licensed and insured. Ask to see those documents. Hope this helps folks looking to replace siding, windows or doors! Happy remodeling!

GAVIGAN HOMES// Go 15 Seer minimum and check your duct work. Metal boxes instead of fiber board are huge mold mitigation upgrades. Get a blower door test 

Hello Terry,

What kind of roof do you have? Is it an asphalt roof? The average lifespan of asphalt composite roofs is 10-15 years. Depending on how extreme the weather is in your area, some roofs made with temporary roofing materials may start to fail as soon as eight years.  

The most common cause of this type of dark spots is a variety of blue/green algae called a  Gloeocapsa Magna. Ths stains often evolve to a moss buildup, as the algae increases moisture. That is not only an appearance problem, as algae proliferation may shorten your roof life and increase energy costs. (You mentioned you recently added more insulation to your attic. Not only that was probably not the cause, but potentially, even the need for the extra insulation is already a sign of an underperforming roof.) 

There are products on the market to clean it, but keep in mind the algae also reduces the composite integrity, so removing it may still keep your roof exposed.

It would be advised to call a professional inspector to do a roof and attic inspection. It can identify any other related issues and give you a timeframe of how much longer can your roof can hold. 

Also refer to your warranty, keeping in mind each manufacturer have a different levels of protection. 

When it's time to re-roof, you may want to consider other lifelong roofing materials (such as metal).  

Feel free to contact us if you have any other question.

Regards,

Carlos (social@interlockroofing.com)

Great insulation plays a key factor in energy savings. There are many different options available to increase the energy efficiency of your home.  James Hardie Siding is specifically designed for the climate in which it is installed. Whether you live in a climate with freezing temperatures, snow & ice or a climate with high humidity, heat, and rain; James Hardie has a siding product built for your homes specific needs. Technology has changed tremendously over the years so homes built 15- 20 years ago may have been installed with what was considered cutting edge at the time. Window replacement and the new technology that windows have now can save a great deal of energy costs. A good product that we can recommend also would be the Mezzo Vinyl Window or Integrity by Marvin Windows. These are high performance windows that are engineered to provide outstanding energy efficiency. Major appliances such as heating and A/C units can also offer great energy savings. 

Hello Alex, 

We are one of the largest James Hardie Siding Elite Preferred contractors in Maryland and we have done numerous James Hardie installs. We have used this application before; it is called a compound miter. Due to the angle of the siding you will first need to determine the angle at which the siding sits on the house wall, which is typically between 10-15 degrees. The actual corner should be at a 45 degree angle. We have found the easiest way to do this is to begin at the bottom course using short pieces to determine the angle. If you need additional information please do not hesitate to contact us 301-355-4604.

Thank you!

Custom Concepts Construction, Inc.

Check out this Houzz site for ideas http://www.houzz.com/outdoor-basketball-court

Do you have a budget? This would be the first question I would ask which also relates to your potential. You are looking at 15-20k typically.

Then are you looking at concrete or a rubber base?

We suggest Simonton Vinyl Replacement windows to all our customers. They are very energy efficient and work flawlessly. I will show a customer a lot of the times how I can open the window with ease with my pinky finger. It's hard to say how much you will save on your energy bill. There are a lot of factors involved. If you currently have a well insulated home and low energy bill you probably won't save that much. If your home isn't that well insulated and large energy bills it will show up more there. I use the example of my grandfather alot. He replaced his windows with Simonton about 10-15 years ago. They have a small 3 bedroom ranch and were having utility bills of $3-400 a month. They replaced the windows and the bill came down to $100 a month. If you are having a hard time keeping your rooms cool in the summer and warm in the winter, you will see a drastic difference in your comfort level along with the power bill. Another reason we offer Simonton is the affordability. We typically install a 5050 replacement window turnkey around $400 per window. Of course there are reasons this can go up, but typical install is on average this price. I would suggest going to simonton.com and searching for an experienced installer in your area. Hope this helps! Good luck with your search.