Answers

Decks are a very tricky item to finish properly.  There are so many variables that have to be considered prior to applying any kind of stain.  If I were staining your deck, I would start by asking a series of questions:

1.) Where are you located? What type of climate is the deck going to be subjected to?

2.) What type of wood is the deck made of?  This will limit what kind of products you can use or would be best suited for the type of material used.  Some woods will only allow you to use an oil based product, while others you can stain with newer waterborne products.

3.) How is the deck built? Is it close to the ground (1'-2' or high up 5'-12').

If the deck is close to the ground, using a one coat system with an oil based product is best.  Although the solid color stains hold up well on decks closer to the ground as well.  

The biggest enemy to any deck surface is moisture, so having good ventillation is a key factor.

4.) What type of finish would you like to apply? Do you want a solid color stain (looks like a paint) or do you want a translucent/transparent or semi-transparent stain (allows you to see the natural grain of the wood)?

We recommend an oil based finish for translucent and semi-transparent stains and we recommend a waterborne product for solid color stains.

5.) When was the deck built?

The wood doesn't necessarily have to weather prior to staining, it just has to be DRY (typically less than 15% moisture content).  Once a tree is cut down, the wood starts to decay as it is no longer connected to a living water source.  The sooner you can protect the wood from the elements of sun and water, the better off your deck will be.  When you let a deck "weather" you allow it to suck up moisture and then have it dried out by the sun (repeatedly).  The more this happens, the faster the wood of your deck will decay.  This is why unprotected wood turns gray; the gray is the dead wood fibers.  If you left your deck to weather, you will want to clean it and remove all the dead wood fiber.  If you use a powerwasher, don't get too close!  The power washer is only meant as a way to help rinse off the deck surfaces.  The tip of the powerwasher should not get any closer than 10-12" from any wood surface, otherwise you can damage the wood.  Use a deck scrub brush and a solution to help remove the dead wood fiber.  Benjamin Moore has some great how to videos on their website: www.benjaminmoore.com.

As soon as the deck is dry (if new), it has to be sanded with about 80 grit sand paper to remove mill glaze.  This "glaze" is what happens when the wood is cut in the saw mill.  The mill glaze will prevent a stain from penetrating the wood properly and cause premature failure of the finished surface.

If you had to powerwash and remove dead wood fiber from the surface, you will want to sand the wood surfaces to remove any "furring" which happens during the process of removing the dead wood fiber and cleaning the deck surfaces.  Once again, use about 80-100 grit sand paper. 

6.) Let's set expectations...

Deck surfaces are subjected to all kinds of elements, foot traffic and furniture.  A typical finish will last for about 24-36 months before showing signs of wear.  Some higher traffic areas may see signs of wear sooner than that.  Be aware that if you live in a climate that gets snow, be careful if you shovel off the deck and try not to throw salt on the deck surface.  This will definitely shorten the life of the stained surface.  

Gently clean your deck once or twice a season to keep debris and dirt from the deck surface.  Doing so can extend the life of the product applied.

7.)  There are more variables and conditions to think about, but this should cover some of the major areas.  The best advice, if it is possible, go to a paint store (Benjamin Moore retailer or Sherwin Williams, or similar) and provide them information about some of the questions above.  They will be able to ask a few more questions and recommend the best product for your situation.  If you don't want to do the project yourself, they can usually recommend a trusted professional.  Try to stay out of a big box store as they typically don't have the best knowledge or training.  

Pictured is a deck during the cleaning process, removing dead wood fiber. The lower portion of the photo has been cleaned and the upper section still has the dead wood fiber.

The second picture is during the staining process.  The deck was sanded after cleaning and allowing to dry.  Stain one board at a time and keep a wet edge to avoid lap marks. Staining in pairs with a helper if possible is best.

Hope that helps and good luck with your project!

Mike

We have been in the gutter protection industry for over 30 years now and we have seen plenty of hyped products come and go over this time. Gutter Helmet stands alone at the top in terms of professionally installed systems on the market today followed by Leafguard and then Topper.

Gutter Helmet's design, engineering and patented bracket design is unmatched in our opinion in the industry. We, meaning our dealership used to sell Leaffilter and some other screen products for some commercial applications and they were all terrible in terms customer unhappiness and product performance over a short period of time. If you want to offer it, be warned on a high volume of service and call backs. The same principal of a screen or filter inside your home still applies if you have a filter over your gutters outside. All filters and screens eventually get filled or clogged, and then they have to be replaced or cleaned off. On any given day/week, our installation crews across 8 states are removing metal/plastic/vinyl screens on 80% of the jobs we do. Last year company wide we did approx. 6,000 Gutter Helmet installs across territories in the NE and Midwest. Any screen or filter company offering a lifetime warranty or guarantee, you should run immediately because it will fail, yes the gutter will not clog but the screen will clog and most screen warranties do not cover this. They take your money and then say it's your responsibility to clean it. Some even hand out brushes after installing the product. 

Gutter Helmet is not 100% flawless by any means, nor is any of the other gutter products I listed, but it works the best in terms of controlling heavy amounts of rainwater and keeping debris out. Gutter Helmet does come with a lifetime mfr. no clog performance warranty which is unmatched by any other warranty. Most gutter protection warranties are backed by a dealer, not a mfr. like Gutter Helmet which is owned by Gibraltar Industries. Everyone should do their research on the warranty and whose really backing it just like windows, etc.  

Full Disclosure: We offer Gutter Helmet because it’s the best quality period and over 90% of our customers recommend our product + experience to others, if that ever changed or we saw something that was better, we would offer it no questions asked. That’s our commitment on every product we offer.  

We at NEWPRO have a alternate view from our industry colleague, Mr. Damora. Since the greatest concern you voiced was the lack of insulation in your extension, we recommend Vinyl Composite Siding, also know as Insulated Vinyl Siding. 

Hardie Plank is a cement board; it's composition is sand and water. It is heavy on the wall and provides no insulation value. Formed to resemble wood, it fails to provide a deep, rich grain and does not come close to the look of wood. It is highly susceptible to mold and mildew. Hardie Plank has many seams and the seams must be sealed or water can infiltrate behind the siding. It can crack and if it does, you must tear the whole wall down in order to replace just one plank. It also is not maintenance free and requires painting every 10 years.

Insulated Vinyl Siding solves all of the aforementioned problems. It has high R-value, some up to 5.3, and has the potential to yield an 80% return on investment due to the increased energy efficiency and lower energy bills. You can learn more about this from the highly respected Remodeling Magazine's Cost to Value 2014 Report.

Additional benefits of Insulated Vinyl Siding include:

• Having a deep, rich grain and a real wood look
• There are less seams, which are water-tight
• It rarely ever needs painting
• It is mold and mildew resistant
• There are far less installation problems and less likely to need repairs.
• If repairs are needed, its easy to replace a single panel. 

I hope this information is helpful. Being located in Massachusetts, we didn't get nearly as rough of a winter as the Chicago area, but we can certainly understand why you put insulation so high on your Siding Needs List! 

All the best,

Michelle Slowe

NEWPRO

Since 80% of a window is glass, it is always wise to pick the right glass for the direction the window faces in your home.  LowE 366 Argon filled glass for the south and west exposures may be the best fit.  LowE 272 Argon filled glass for the north and east exposures might save you money and be just fine in those locations.  Visable light will be something you want to check if you have plants that require lots of light to grow.  The higher the number the more light for the plants.  Any window that has a U value of .27 or lower will be very energy efficient in both the summer and the winter.  Double pane vs. triple pane may make a difference, so be sure you review the manufacturers specifications before you make that decision.

The other decision you have to make is what kind of frame you want the window made of.  Vinyl, wood, wood clad and fiberglass are the main options you will have to consider.  Each has their plus and minus points.  However, as I stated above, 80% of a window is glass and most quality windows have the same glass options from the same manufacturers, so be sure you pick the right glass with a low U value and you should be happy.

Also, keep in mind that installation of the window is just as important as the quality of the window and the glass that is in it.  I advise you to get two or three bids and check each contractor out to make sure they have happy window clients.