I'd expect that you have a warranty longer than just 30 days. Probably at least 1 year, right? I'll base my answer on that premise.

In the first 30 days, you should look for things that are incomplete or not installed to the Standards Manual referenced in your contract. (My contract references the Residential Construction Quality Standards of the Wisconsin Builders Association.) If there were things promised in written or verbal contracts, change orders, etc that are not done.

Over the course of a full year, the lumber will fully dry out and the house will have gone through its seasonal shrinkage and expansion due to humidity & temperature changes. You should expect your contractor to repair screw pops and drywall seams one time in your warranty period. If you notice areas of trim that weren't puttied, expect them to touch it up then.

Any other things you can think of that you have questions about?

Hello John,

STEP 1.  This is a very common for homes with room(s) obove a garage.  Replacing the window (s) in the bedroom  may not solve your entire problem if the glass package you select does not include a high performance  heat reflectant type glass.   Which ever manufacturer you decide, its best to pay the additional cost and upgrade to thier best performance glass.  If you have already invested in new windows then check your paperwork to see if there is a greater performance glass option you can upgrade with for that type window .   This is a simple process and can greatly reduce your Solar Heat Gain for minimal investment.

STEP 2.  Select a certified insulation professional in your area to provide you with a "critical point air seal".  Properly applied by a certified professional at upper and lower rim joists in this room aproximatly  1' in width by 2" in thickness. Air sealing the upper and lower rim is a minimal investment  and provides  a significant and noticable change in comfort with a quick ROI.  Consider this service for the entire home.

Warm regards

Colorado Home Exterior

I agree wholeheartedly with the excellent answer provided by Christi at Callen Construction that your problem is probably caused by the different coefficient of thermal expansion of the materials involved.  And yes a fiberglass window would be a good solution, but a wood window would also solve the problem.

To put some numbers to the expansion and contraction properties of window material, with 10 as the worst performance and 1 as the best, here's how they stack up:  vinyl - 10, composite (like Andersen Renewal Fibrex) - 4.5, actual fiberglass (like Pella Impervia or Marvin Integrity) 1.4, wood 1.0.

Don't discount a clad wood window if you like the aesthetics- it will perform well if properly sized and installed.

Christofer, There is a lot written about your particular condition. What I would do would be to install a spray polyurethane insulation (closed cell insulation) into the attic ceiling and down to and including the eaves. this installed over a 1/4" plywood that would be "cleated" down at a minimum of 1" below the bottom of the roof sheathing, thus eliminating the "hot roof" situation. As far as moisture... if you understand that warm air rises and carries the moisture up (another reason i would use a closed cell product) then it makes sense to foam any walls or kneewalls as well. The venting on the top side would not be to eliminate any interior moisture, but to make your shingles last longer (keep them from overheating). Quite a few asphalt companies have disclaimers on warrantees because of this issue. You would need to check with your steel roof manufacturer how they respond to a hot roof application. 

Ok so you don't really want all that moisture collecting on your windows and or finished wall substrates in the attic. So an ERV/HRV or even the furnace fan run continuously would help distrubute or evacute the excess moisture if this is your main house furnace (air handler). FYI- change filters monthly in these systems to help mitigate possible mold issues. I recommend the 6" combustion air (bringing in dry outside air) code required in IRC. I am not sure if this furnace unit in your attic is the primary furnace (air handler) for the home. If so that would help distribute attic moisture to the lower parts of the home. If separate attic unit only, I'm not thinking it will ever distribute moist warm air to the lower level like you suggest.

Remember this... once you start changing the function of your home's ventilation/conditioned or unconditioning of a space you will be changing the whole dynamics of how the house used to function. Henceforth do your homework. All this said...I run my company business in the extreme temperature zone of Minnesota. Your local heating guys should have a better handle on providing a safe living environment for your family. Mold can be a serious issue.  

Interior chimneys are at least 4" larger in all four directions than the flue they contain. A chimney containing a 12"x12" clay flue liner must be at least 20" by 20". Combustible materials must be kept at least 2" away from the outside of the chimney walls. Exterior chimneys only need to be 1" away from the exterior combustible wall of the house.

By code the chimney must extend at least three feet above the roof and two feet above any part of the roof within ten feet. Cast in place or use a pre-cast concrete chimney cap with a drip edge and caulk the joint between the cap and the top flue liner with a silicon sealant.

In Seismic areas place a #4 steel reinforcing bar in each corner of the chimney, preferrably in the cells of the brick or block, and grout solid. If you must place the reinforcing steel between the flue liner and the surrounding masonry we recommend wrapping the flues with 1/8" ceramic fiber paper "socks" before placing the grout to allow the flue liners a lttle room to expand without cracking the exterior masonry. Tie the surrounding masonry horizontally every 18" with steel ladder or K-web, or pencil rod in the bed joints. Exterior chimneys must be anchored at each floor and roof.

The surround (the area at least 6" wide around the fireplace opening) can be finished with brick, stone, tile, terra cotta, slate, marble - almost any decorative masonry material. 100 years ago fireplace surrounds were often finished with ordinary plaster and sometimes painted black. The surround should not be used to lower the opening of the fireplace. The part of the surround over the fireplace opening should be just low enough to cover the edge of the rounded Rumford throat and not so low that it might cause unwanted turbulence.

Oftentimes the attic is the place to start.  Make sure you have plenty of ventilation, both intake and exhaust.  Check the soffit cavity to make sure you it isn't clogged with insulation.  There are formulas for Square foot of attic in relation to ventilation.  If you have a vapor barrier in the ceilling a ration of 1:300 sf is ok, otherwise about 1:150 is the rule. Second, check the insulation.  All air escaping into the attic should be sealed using spray foam or other sealants. Next, depending on your geographic location, make sure you have plenty of insulation in the attic.  Finally, something as simple as installing blinds over windows can be an economical solution to saving on energy costs.  As recommended in some of the other answers, an energy audit or getting advice from any number of qualified professionals that are willing to visit your home is the best place to start.

If basement ceiling is unfinished or has drop ceiling you can usually run 1 1/4" screws from underneath.  It is best to have a helper finding the squeaks and try to measure from the outside walls in order to find proper placement of the screws.  Top nailing the boards is a temporary fix at best.  

Another option, which I have not used myself, is used a lot in Houston.  https://www.plylox.com/  This company sells a clip that is attached to 1/2"plywood, and you can typically get them at your local Home Depot. 

From their website: 

PLYLOX™ window clips are patented h-shaped carbon steel clips engineered to fit 1/2" plywood without nails, screws or adhesives. There is no longer any need to drill holes in brick in order to protect your windows from storm damage.

Just an FYI...  Good luck.

I am assuming your home is ducted and has a forced air system.  If you you only have 1 furnace and 1 condenser, it my be more energy effecient to expend to two units.  I recommend Lennox.  You can also look at installing spilt units like these made by Fujitsu:

http://www.fujitsugeneral.com/products.htm

These are designed so that you can cool a room/rooms individually.  I suggest calling a few licensed HVAC contractors and get 3 quotes.

Make sure the room is well sealed. I don't know how old your house is, but there is a surprising amount of noise that can leak in around poor quality windows. If you need to replace the windows, find out about ones that are good for sound reduction, such as sometimes are retrofitted near airports. You could also add a storm window that specializes in sound reduction, again often used near airports. 

Here's a company that I know of. I've not installed this product, but I use some of their other products: http://www.monray.com/focus.htm#sound

Otherwise, if you install new siding on the house, you can evaluate whether you can add dense-packed cellulose in the wall cavities, or a thick layer of foam insulation under the siding. Brick masonry with a proper air space of about 1" could also help to absorb the sound and not pass it on through the wall.

Hope this helps.

J.H. Fiber cement is composed of 70% concrete and 30% celluoose. Cellulose being ground up paper. Both water and cement wick moisture so if you use these products be sure to read and follow installation instructions. Leave no surface unpainted or it will draw moisture and deteriorate. Seen it many times. It is also dusty if you cut it with a saw. It is heavy, breaks easily if flexed. It is also heavy so it only comes in 12 foot lengths for the most part. It has the insulation value of cement which R-1 per inch. It is 5/16 thick so you get 5/16 or R-1 which is not much.

Vinyl is plastic but it is about half the price and any handyman can install if they follow directions so it can expand and contractl. Don't expect it top lasd forever. Hail storms beat it up pretty bad if the stones are big enough. One caution with it is do not place a grill near i, vinyl melts at 150 to 165 degerees depending on how thick it is. 

In my opinion steel is a little costiler but in most cases lasts for a long time.  If you figure it out, you will replace vinyl about every seven years. My stleel has been on my home in a hail region since 1975, No hail damage. You do the math.

When you are looking for a professional contractor to successfully bring your home remodeling project to life, you need to make sure you do your homework.

Below are 6 things to consider before hiring a contractor:

1.What is their track record? How long have they been working in the area?

Check out the home remodeling companies you are considering on the Better Business Bureau’s website as well as other sites like Angie’s List. Read testimonials on review websites and look over company websites for portfolios and comments from past clients.

2.What are their credentials? Are they licensed? Bonded? Insured?

States set their own requirements about licenses, but most states have an agency that homeowners can contact to confirm a contractor’s license and credentials. Ask for proof of bonding to make sure your contractor is current on his/her credentials. Insurance puts the liability on the contractor if something goes wrong during the project. Not all insurance is created equal, make sure to ask for a copy of their insurance certificate to verify they have General Liability, Workers’ Compensation, and Auto coverages.

3.Do they have references? Will they provide you with a past client list?

Use a past client list to talk with the people your client has worked with before. Ask them if the contractor delivered what was promised on time and at the agreed upon budget. Also ask about how easy or difficult it was to communicate with the contractor.

4.How will they communicate with you? How do you reach them after hours?

Make sure you agree on how you will communicate with your contractor and if you need weekly in person meetings to get your questions answered.

5.Will they be getting all the required building permits for the project?

While the homeowner pays the cost of the building permits, the contractor should be the one responsible for obtaining the permits.

6.How will the payment schedule be arranged?

For replacement work never pay the entire amount before the project starts. Payment schedules vary from company to company, but there is usually a deposit and payment installments based on certain stages of completion.

Just as you are asking questions about your contractor, your contractor will be asking questions about you and your home remodeling project. It is important that you are aware of the questions your contractor should NOT be asking you.

Sometimes a contractor is trying to find out information about a project, but he/she may phrase questions in a way that makes the homeowner feel uncomfortable.

Listed below are some questions your contractor should NOT ask you:

1.Are you widowed?

2.Do you have money in your savings account?

3.How much money do you make?

4.Will you be alone when I arrive?

5.What is your credit score?

6.May I see your other bids before I present mine?

In Angie Hicks’s article, “3 Questions Your Contractor Shouldn’t Ask,” from Angie’s List she explains how home improvement contractors can be more tactful when they request information from clients.

Check out the article here: https://www.angieslist.com/articles/3-questions-your-contractor-shouldnt-ask.htm

Good Morning,

Nice space.  Its hard to tell from the photos just how big the space needing to be filled is however 

Dap 18854 High Heat Mortar Raw Building Material, Black

should work well. It can likey be found at you local hardware store of online

https://www.amazon.com/18854-Mortar-Building-Material-Black/dp/B0006MXS4C/ref=asc_df_B0006MXS4C/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167127061369&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16226564078373131268&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032160&hvtargid=pla-307130896304&psc=1

Best of luck and Happy Holidays

Jared