It can be done. The cost will vary depending what you have to go through and how far. In some cases it may be toocostly to undertake, but many times it is worth the cost to get the fumes to the outside.
In most cases we can do it. It runs about $250.00 in material and about $1000.00 in labor
But this is sight un seen
It can be vented through the floor joist system and out the house
It can be vented through the roof
It can be vented through the wall if its on an exterrior wall
We can help if you send us a floor plan and some pictures
or we can just make an appointment
What wiring did they exactly "mess up"? Was it the circuit to power the equipment or the low voltage lines? Either way, they should have used care to keep things where they belonged. If it was going to be an issue, they should have brought it to your attention early and said that you would have to possibly talk to your security people about resetting things. It appears to be a lack in communication during the work process.
Marty Brummel
M.K. Brummel, Inc. Fine Remodeling and Building
I think a combination of the below suggestion is in order. The first would be to talk with electrican and tell them you will have the security company come and fix the issue. But, also if they find that it was caused by the electrican you expect them to cover the repair cost. If it was damaged because it was hidden and they could not know it was there, then a split of cost may be more reanonable.
Negotiate in good faith, but if they are found responsible and become uncooperative, then places like the BBB my bes the best best.
The contractor should have told you upfront that they don't deal with security systems before messed it up. It seems fair to me to let the Contractor know that you expect them to pay the bill for the security company to make the repairs.
Dennis Gehman
Gehman Design Remodeling
There are numerous companies online that offer custom lighting products. Googloe search for them.
Thanks,
I would ask to speak with the owner of the business. If they were responsible for the damage...and you can prove it was them that caused the system to fail (your security company will tell you)...then a smart business owner will want to make it right and reimburse you. If he doesn't, then file a complaint with the BBB, your local Electrical Workers union and if push comes to shove, small claims court to recover damages.
I agree with answer 1. The electrician should have had his work inspected by an independant electrical inspection agency. they would place a sticker on the panel bos. you can also contact the inspection agency yourself and have them do an inspection for you. It sounds as if the electrician did not follow standard eclectic parctices or code.
Arc faults can trip easily. "Updated the electrical" is a broad term. It is hard to judge if this is substandard work without knowing the scope of work or if permits were obtained. Did they have permits and inspections? If the work was permitted and completed poorly, you may have some other options of how to proceed if the electrician remains unresponsive.
Set up includeing Dust Containment field, reverse air flow and floor protection
Demo concreete work, framing, roofing
Rough electrical
Rough plumbing
Inspection
Drywall,
Inspectioin
Mud and tape
Cabinets and fixtures
Tile backsplash
Finish electrical
Finish plumbing
Fixtures
Finishes Painting
Final Inspection
Clean up
Photo Pizza Party
Each phase should show labor (both in house and sub), materials broken out
Hope this helps
Philip Anderson
HDR Remodeling
Berkeley Ca
Each contractor has own estimating. Estimatehas to contain material selections so you can compare other contractors and know that you comparing "apples to apples". (Do not expect to have their cost broken down.)
Each phase can have estimated labor time. But that something that most likely included in to the total project cost.
Phase1. Get design done and analyze your lay out and cabinet functionality.
Phase 2. Materials to be used selection.Most impact on your budget makes your selections - door style, construction, finish. Be smart and flexible on door style to get most value for your money.
Phase 3. Ask for referrals from previous customers from your contractor. Do your homework before you open doors for strangers.
Phase 4. Sign contract, pay "down payment". Ask for payment and material delivery schedule for your project.
Last but not the least. Reward your hardworking subs.
Regards
Manny Stiega
The combination of answers above is pretty inclusive. The first responder's comments get you to the construction phase. I would add that recommendations from friends sometimes fall short if your project is of a different nature than theirs. Be sure your contractor has a track record in the type project you are considering.,
Our estimates list out detail of the work scope included and an overall cost. When moving to the contract phase we submit a schedule of values that will be used for percentage complete pay apps.
As far as the construction process, this would be our normal progression:
protection - provision for temp lighting if needed
demolition and temp arrangements for appliance usage if needed
framing of new walls, floors or beams
rough plumbing If needed
rough electric for lights, appliances etc
hvac or venting as needed
insulation
drywall
tile prep, underlayment
tile or hardwood installation
more protection before cabinets to protect finished floors
install cabinets
install trim (base/crown etc)
measure/install countertops
install appliances
paint (sometimes this will move ahead of countertops)
backsplashes
plumbing finish
electrical finish
cabinet hardware
provide & perform punch list
remove protection
test electric, plumbing, appliance function
Note: inspections required vary by jurisdiction but for our area it will generally include foundation if an addition is involved, framing if structural changes, rough plumbing, rough electric insulation, final plumbing, final electric, certificate of occupancy.
Hope this helps
hire a licensed pro and avoid the pitfalls.
First of all, will the electrical box be able to support the new fan? A paddle fan takes a special box rated for the extra weight. You can get one for an "old work" set-up and use the same ceiling cut-out. It's a little tricky getting the old box out, especially if there are a lot of wires coming into it.
The above are two good, and siilar in approach answers, but there are two issues it seems no one includes:
1) If you house was built before 1978 it must be inspected by a certified contractor or lead paint inspector for lead paint before a remodel is started. If found the paint, or paintd material must be prperly abated. This can be a significant cost item.
2) Most remodel items like tile, cabinets, and paint are considered minor and don't require it in most jurisdictions, but electrical, plumbing, HVAC, and structural modifications require permits and inspections. A homeowner can save money by omitting them, but if you get busted, you'l pay and you may be without a kitchen for a long time.
Robert Johnson
Southern Home Improvement, LLC
Georgia