In order for shingles to sit and form properly, it should be at least 36 degrees fahrenheit (2.2 celsius) outside when laying shingles. 

Hi, I hope I can provide some insight and help. First, as a storm restoration contractor the insurance company does not usually supply enough materials to get the job done to meet building code, and they are not very responsive when trying to get a supplement, so I can understand why it is taking so long. It happens to me all the time. It is not code to put ice and water on the ridges, if that is what you mean by peaks, and I don't think it is in the valleys in MO, but you could call your local building inspector and just ask. Your shingles should have been installed on a day or two when the temps reached 40 or above as recommended by the manufacturer. With that being said, some of the biggest contractors in town still install them with temps well below that. To me that is a sign of contractor that does not care about quality. If the nails are exposed on the nail line of the shingle they were not installed correctly. Also, when the temps are below 40 the shingles become very brittle, so I'm sure they ripped due to handling in those temps. Those can be replaced very easily if there aren't to many of them. The area of concern is going to be water intrusion. However, I wouldn't worry to much about it on your first year of a new roof. You should be ok, but you need to make sure your issues are resolved.

Any damage to drip edge, fascia, soffit, etc. is also a very easy fix. If they do not fix these any of these items I would highly recommend filing a complaint with the BBB. In the St. Louis, MO area you can call Signature Roofing (573-424-4591) and they will take care of you. He has been trained by Haag Engineering to identify issues with asphalt shingles. 

Each shingle manufacturer will specify if they have minimum temperatures for install.  40 degrees is a good rule of thumb. Below that, crews may have issues with their equipment (air compressors and hoses) working properly and shingles may not seal, espescially on northern facing slopes.

I would recommend not less than 40 degrees. If the shingles are a dark color in direct sunlight they will seal in one day from the solar radiance from the sun even if temps are low. 

Brick mason

Both, more than likely. The mason should replace the masonry products and the roofer should work with the mason to achieve a regletted counterflashing and flash the roof under counterflashings.

Hey Terry, 

Black spots on the roof usually form do on the Northern facing side of the home because it has less direct exposure to sun light. 

Blue-Green algae is usually what the black spots are, however, depending on the age of the roof, sometimes the loss of granules also shows black streaking, which can be a sign that the roof is nearing the time for replacement.

This type of staining (algae as the other posters have said) will usually only happen on the North facing surface of the roof.  Same with condensation on your car glass.  Suprisingly, the North facing sky will actually remove heat from a substrate and thus make the roof surface colder.

Colder roof surface = condensing surface.  The moisture combined with the organic component will combine for a great growing surface (that the the rock dust organic component of the shingle).

It is not surprising that it is happeing more after you insulated the home.  By insulating (a good thing), you have reduced the heat sink between the roof and the conditioned space below and therfore made the roof colder in the process.  Colder roof...same as stated above. 

Plenty of roof washes out there that will handled most of this stuff and it does not mean the roof is cooked. 

Hello Terry,

What kind of roof do you have? Is it an asphalt roof? The average lifespan of asphalt composite roofs is 10-15 years. Depending on how extreme the weather is in your area, some roofs made with temporary roofing materials may start to fail as soon as eight years.  

The most common cause of this type of dark spots is a variety of blue/green algae called a  Gloeocapsa Magna. Ths stains often evolve to a moss buildup, as the algae increases moisture. That is not only an appearance problem, as algae proliferation may shorten your roof life and increase energy costs. (You mentioned you recently added more insulation to your attic. Not only that was probably not the cause, but potentially, even the need for the extra insulation is already a sign of an underperforming roof.) 

There are products on the market to clean it, but keep in mind the algae also reduces the composite integrity, so removing it may still keep your roof exposed.

It would be advised to call a professional inspector to do a roof and attic inspection. It can identify any other related issues and give you a timeframe of how much longer can your roof can hold. 

Also refer to your warranty, keeping in mind each manufacturer have a different levels of protection. 

When it's time to re-roof, you may want to consider other lifelong roofing materials (such as metal).  

Feel free to contact us if you have any other question.

Regards,

Carlos (social@interlockroofing.com)

There isn't a lot of information, so I'll make some assumptions.  First the black "spots" are on the inside of the roof sheating, the black spots are assumed to be mold and you live in a cold climate?

If my assumptions are correct you probably have inadequate ventilation of the attic area causing moisture to accumulate, condense and probably freeze during cold weather (hence the spots being limited to north side where sun does not directly heat roof in winter) This water probably thaws in the spring and leaves enough moisture at the surface (water activity) for a long enough time with sufficient temperature to allow mold (probably Cladosporium) to grow.

This is probably either as a result of a moisture source, such as a bathroom vent or perhaps ambient moisture escaping the finished area at an attic access, can lights, etc.  I suspect when you added the insulation, the temperature of the attic space was lowered during heating season as less heat was lost to the attic from the finished space.

Probably need to verify that there are no sources adding moisture load to attic, then add or increase the size of the venting or add a humidistat activated exhaust fan to the attic space to correct the cause and then properly remediate the (apparent) mold.

If the spots are on the outside, the addition of insulation may still have changed the balance of the attic temperature, resulting in moisture staying on the roof longer than in the past as the roof is not heated and dried as quickly by the "lost" heat from the inside.  This may mean it is becomes a maintenance issue either by addition of a controlling agent in or on the roofing material or (annual) cleaning to remove the "spots" when they appear.

Over a period of time, shingles may develop dark brown or black streaks that are sometimes mistaken for soot, dirt, moss or tree droppings.  In actuality, this discoloration may be caused by algae growth. Although most
roofing systems are susceptible to algae discoloration, it is most readily visible on white or light-colored shingles.
Today many  of the newer asphalt shingles have an Algae Resistant granular system that guards against roof algae. The system uses copper roofing granules from 3M to prevent algae growth‚ protecting the roof and preserving the home’s be auty.  Here is a link to a good explanation....  http://roofpedia.com/algae-resistant-roof-shingles/ 

The best way to fix and resolve ice dams is actualy proper isulation in the attic space. Next is proper ventilation. Both intake and exhaust. These are critcal but rarely done correct and very costly and hard to do rero. 

If the above are not done then a good qulity ice melting system is best. Either a commecial grade heat cable/heat tape or an ice melting system such as a heat panel.

Never use a continous watage cable as they are not safe or effecient. 

Only use a self regulating cable as they are safe and effecient. 

You will want the cable in the gutters and downspouts first, the next step is cable in the valleys and lastly weaved on the roof.

Hey William, 

I would say your best bet is to shingle over the vents and edge the vents at eaves. This way you are able to allow for intake and continuous ridge vent for exhaust. Hope this helps!

Eric Consuegra

AROCON Roofing and Construction, LLC