Christofer, There is a lot written about your particular condition. What I would do would be to install a spray polyurethane insulation (closed cell insulation) into the attic ceiling and down to and including the eaves. this installed over a 1/4" plywood that would be "cleated" down at a minimum of 1" below the bottom of the roof sheathing, thus eliminating the "hot roof" situation. As far as moisture... if you understand that warm air rises and carries the moisture up (another reason i would use a closed cell product) then it makes sense to foam any walls or kneewalls as well. The venting on the top side would not be to eliminate any interior moisture, but to make your shingles last longer (keep them from overheating). Quite a few asphalt companies have disclaimers on warrantees because of this issue. You would need to check with your steel roof manufacturer how they respond to a hot roof application. 

Ok so you don't really want all that moisture collecting on your windows and or finished wall substrates in the attic. So an ERV/HRV or even the furnace fan run continuously would help distrubute or evacute the excess moisture if this is your main house furnace (air handler). FYI- change filters monthly in these systems to help mitigate possible mold issues. I recommend the 6" combustion air (bringing in dry outside air) code required in IRC. I am not sure if this furnace unit in your attic is the primary furnace (air handler) for the home. If so that would help distribute attic moisture to the lower parts of the home. If separate attic unit only, I'm not thinking it will ever distribute moist warm air to the lower level like you suggest.

Remember this... once you start changing the function of your home's ventilation/conditioned or unconditioning of a space you will be changing the whole dynamics of how the house used to function. Henceforth do your homework. All this said...I run my company business in the extreme temperature zone of Minnesota. Your local heating guys should have a better handle on providing a safe living environment for your family. Mold can be a serious issue.  

Everyone has a different opinion of what is good and bad service depending what side of the issue they are on.I would also give them one last time to address your complaint.

Give them an acceptable time line to respond and correct the issue one last time. If you have called them, had conversation and a commitment to correct or refusal to do anything then I would notify them in writing that you intend to report them to the BBB, and the local & state regulators. The attorney general is usually the heavy hitter on consumer complaints. Then follow through.

I would recommend not less than 40 degrees. If the shingles are a dark color in direct sunlight they will seal in one day from the solar radiance from the sun even if temps are low. 

I believe Home Depot has some aerosol products that can nearly reach 40 ft, but not positive.

+1

Impossible to say without inspecting the roof but some will live quite a long time based on exposure, correctness of installation, ventilation, etc.

There is quite a bit of variance and human contribution when it comes to getting the most out of the roof as well so when you do replace it, be sure to deal with someone that knows their craft and will educate you on the decisions and material selections that will work most effective for your home.

WoW Home Solutions

One easy fix for homeowners to prevent ice dams from the attic is to ensure proper airflow "intake" from the eaves.  In many cases, the insulation is blown tight to the soffit which cuts off the ventilation at the intake.  Installing Styrofoam baffles at the eaves between the joists to create the required 2" separation is fairly easy to do from the attic area.  I normally would not recommend homeowners to take on this challenge unless they have experience working in the attic.  Since the flooring in the attic area is not finished in most cases, the homeowner must be careful to only step on the joists when working or they will potentially fall through the ceiling / drywall.  For this reason, it is recommended that a professional handle this type of install to avoid injury.

Eric Consuegra, Arocon Roofing & Construction

Air sealing and insulation of the exterior top plates is critical to preventing that warm and moist air from warming the roof deck.

Attic ventilation is critical to keep that attic dry and as close to ambient air temperature.

Keep in mind that some ice dams are not preventable regardless of insulation and ventilation.  That being said, I would venture a guess that 90% of ice dams are the result of poor insulation and ventilation. 

Each shingle manufacturer will specify if they have minimum temperatures for install.  40 degrees is a good rule of thumb. Below that, crews may have issues with their equipment (air compressors and hoses) working properly and shingles may not seal, espescially on northern facing slopes.

Make sure when you have a new roof installed that you check for the proper licenses, insurance & accreditations.  Get recent and old references.  Ask if they are going to use Gutter apron at the eaves and drip edge on the gable.  What type of ridge vent will they use?  Will it have a baffle in it to prevent wind driven snow from entering your attic?  Will they use ring-shanked nails for the ridge vent so the ridge vent nails won't back out over time?  Make sure you understand warranties and the fine print of these, especially the pro-rated portion.  Make sure to address both intake & exhaust ventilation, as well as attic ventilation as all of these properly working will dramatically extend the life of your roof and save on energy costs. A great way to educate yourself is to do searches on YouTube or you can visit our website www.croixco.com for helpful ideas and questions.  Check out our Pinterest page for other great pictures and ideas.

Bee spray typicaqlly has a really far reach or an exterminator. 

Between 40 and 85 degrees is ideal!

There are two options available for reroofing installations. One would be to tear off the old roof before applying the new one (tear off). The second would be to lay new shingles over the existing roof (lay over). While the second choice is the less expensive of the two options, it is not necessarily always the best choice.
There are advantages to tearing off the old roof before installing a new one. For example:

• If there are any defects in the roof deck, they will be revealed when the roof is torn off. These defects should be repaired before applying the new roof.

• If condensation problems exist in the attic, they too will be revealed when the roof is torn off.
Properly designed attic ventilation can then be installed in order to help eliminate such problems.

• When the old roof is torn off, waterproofing shingle underlayment can be installed before applying the  new roof. This will help protect against leaks created by cyclical ice damage and wind-driven rain.

• Tearing off the old roof and starting with a clean deck before reroofing may result in a smoother finished roof system. Although there is added cost to these advantages, each lessens the likelihood that the validity of the manufacturer’s shingle warranty will be impaired. If the old roof is torn off, your contractor should be responsible for the cleanup and disposal of the old shingles, but make sure your contract states this clearly.

If you do plan to reroof over existing shingles, first check if your local building codes limit the number of roof layers that can be applied to a residence in your area. Most restrict maximum to 2 layers. Your contractor should know the pertinent code requirements.

Both, more than likely. The mason should replace the masonry products and the roofer should work with the mason to achieve a regletted counterflashing and flash the roof under counterflashings.