Hello Debbie, I would ask how that was determined.  I think that fact that the question was brought up in the first place really raises a red flag.  In my experience, if there was a question about changing the laod on a structure an engineer should have been consulted.  I would ask the contractor to make things right based off the advise of an engineer.  Note-If this contractor is a roofer, I would not think that would be a good fit for the repairs.

We wish you the best,

get a lawyer

I would recommend a licenced mason   Please don't have a handyperson do it.  It will look terrible and may not withstand an siemic even properly.

i would call some of the licenced home builder in your area and ask them who they would recommend/

Phililp

Masons would install mortar on bricks.

Metal roof pricing ranges on what the structure details are (steepness, valleys, penetrations, wall flashings, chimneys, etc.) and what gauge, profile, ventilation and snow retention (if any) is needed or requested.

Christofer, There is a lot written about your particular condition. What I would do would be to install a spray polyurethane insulation (closed cell insulation) into the attic ceiling and down to and including the eaves. this installed over a 1/4" plywood that would be "cleated" down at a minimum of 1" below the bottom of the roof sheathing, thus eliminating the "hot roof" situation. As far as moisture... if you understand that warm air rises and carries the moisture up (another reason i would use a closed cell product) then it makes sense to foam any walls or kneewalls as well. The venting on the top side would not be to eliminate any interior moisture, but to make your shingles last longer (keep them from overheating). Quite a few asphalt companies have disclaimers on warrantees because of this issue. You would need to check with your steel roof manufacturer how they respond to a hot roof application. 

Ok so you don't really want all that moisture collecting on your windows and or finished wall substrates in the attic. So an ERV/HRV or even the furnace fan run continuously would help distrubute or evacute the excess moisture if this is your main house furnace (air handler). FYI- change filters monthly in these systems to help mitigate possible mold issues. I recommend the 6" combustion air (bringing in dry outside air) code required in IRC. I am not sure if this furnace unit in your attic is the primary furnace (air handler) for the home. If so that would help distribute attic moisture to the lower parts of the home. If separate attic unit only, I'm not thinking it will ever distribute moist warm air to the lower level like you suggest.

Remember this... once you start changing the function of your home's ventilation/conditioned or unconditioning of a space you will be changing the whole dynamics of how the house used to function. Henceforth do your homework. All this said...I run my company business in the extreme temperature zone of Minnesota. Your local heating guys should have a better handle on providing a safe living environment for your family. Mold can be a serious issue.  

We've done this application numerous times in southeastern PA with one subtle change, we use closed cell foam insulation directly against the underside of the roof sheathing. Open cell will continue to let air/humidity through, closed cell will not. Since air can't move through the closed cell foam there isn't any need for air flow under the roof sheathing because there won't be any humidity there to potentially condensate. Air already moves through the fiberglass insulation and that won't change when the Attic becomes conditioned space. I believe it would be best to remove ALL of the existing fiberglass ceiling insulation so that the Attic space becomes 'one' with the rest of the House. Fresh air intake to the fossil fuel furnace is necessary. It should be set up with a power damper that opens when the furnace turns on to allow combustion air directly to the heat chamber. When the furnace isn't running the damper is closed to keep unconditioned air out of the Attic.

Dennis D. Gehman, CR, MSA, CLC, CKBR, GAC, CAPS

President

Gehman Design Remodeling

NARI = National Association of the Remodeling Industry

CR = NARI Certified Remodeler

MSA = CertainTeed Master Shingle Applicator

CLC = NARI Certifled Lead Carpenter

CKBR = NARI Certified Kitchen & Bath Remodeler

GAC = Green Advantage Certified

CAPS = Certified Aging in Place Specialist

BBB is a great place to leave reviews. I would also send a private email to the business or contractor you have the complaint with. That way they are aware of how you feel and the concerns you have. If you leave w public review on Google or yelp for example Be careful with wording. Everything left on a review must be factual and able to prove just. Freedom of speech becomes libel or defamation of character.   If the contractor looses business or potential customers directly because of the review you could have legal trouble assuming they can prove negative impact. 

Have you made the contractor aware of your disappointment? Have you given them the opportunity to "Make it Right?" If so, i would go to the agency that issues licenses in your area and file a formal complaint. The BBB is also a good place to go. Both of these entities will investigate your complaint and seek to have the situation remedied.

Reviews are very important to such a company. I would advise filing a complaint with the BBB in your area as other have stated, along with sharing your experience on their other pages like google, facebook, Angie's List, etc.

Here are a few ideas....

1. File a complaint with the Better Business Bureau 
2. Most homeowners associations have message boards - post your experience there
3. Call your local TV station - they love doing stories on bad contractors
4. Put a sign on your front lawn warning your neighbors!

Everyone has a different opinion of what is good and bad service depending what side of the issue they are on.I would also give them one last time to address your complaint.

Give them an acceptable time line to respond and correct the issue one last time. If you have called them, had conversation and a commitment to correct or refusal to do anything then I would notify them in writing that you intend to report them to the BBB, and the local & state regulators. The attorney general is usually the heavy hitter on consumer complaints. Then follow through.