As a roofing contractor, of course I am going to suggest an upgrade to your roofing system. And that's not just a biased opinion either. Working with a lot of realtors in our area it has been proven that the roof can be as much as 40% of your curb appeal. Especially when the system incudes things like the right color drip edge on the rakes and eaves, and high profile ridge caps. Both of those items are relatively inexpensive and can make a very noticibale difference compared to homes that don't have them. Selecting the proper type of shingle of course also plays a huge role. About 95% of re-roofs these days use a standard architectural tpye compositions shingle but picking something from the designer line can realy make your home stand apart. Then again, other rof covering options besides ashphalt shingles can make an even greater impact. 

As a GAF Master Elite Copntractor, we are partial to their line of products and I have included a link below to their designer apshpalt series.

Good luck!

http://www.gaf.com/Roofing/Residential/Products/Shingles/Designer

Same as others said, Remodeling magazine's Cost Vs. Value report is a great resource!

Direct added value to your home:

Finish out unfinished living areas

Upgrades to bathroom and kitchen

Add additional living area

All other items completed to home have negligible value added benifits in terms of Apprasial added value.

I agree with Chris.  The Cost vs Value report is the "go to" guide and is impartial.  Personally, I like to focus on first impressions and curb appeal.  Exterior dressings like corwn mouldings and simple shrub pruning is a great low cost way to give the home a wow factor.

The energy efficiency of a home relies on several factors. 

The most dominant of these factors is the insulation used, both within the perimeter walls and attic.  This would include the houses ability to breath as well as maintain a good barrier.  It's not so much the amount of insulation as the type and installation methods.

Another factor that effects the energy efficiency of your home is your windows and doors.  They come in all varieties of energy ratings, and are also reliant on the installation methods used.

The third thing that I would look at is the ventilation of your attic.  If your attic has the necessary ventilation needed it can reduce energy cost as well as prolong the life of your roof system.

We would suggest getting a ground mount system, not only does this allow you to place your array in a prime location but it will also save you the hassle of removing them down the road when the roof needs replaced.  Any solar provider should be able to show you the difference in production with a roof vs ground array. Good luck.

You might also contact a couple of local realtors to see what people in your area are looking for in the home they want to purchase.

The above are two good, and siilar in approach answers, but there are two issues it seems no one includes:

1) If you house was built before 1978 it must be inspected by a certified contractor or lead paint inspector for lead paint before a remodel is started. If found the paint, or paintd material must be prperly abated. This can be a significant cost item.

2) Most remodel items like tile, cabinets, and paint are considered minor and don't require it in most jurisdictions, but electrical, plumbing, HVAC, and structural modifications require permits and inspections. A homeowner can save money by omitting them, but if you get busted, you'l pay and you may be without a kitchen for a long time.

Robert Johnson

Southern Home Improvement, LLC

Georgia

The combination of answers above is pretty inclusive. The first responder's comments get you to the construction phase. I would add that recommendations from friends sometimes fall short if your project is of a different nature than theirs. Be sure your contractor has a track record in the type project you are considering.,

 Our estimates list out detail of the work scope included and an overall cost. When moving to the contract phase we submit a schedule of values that will be used for percentage complete pay apps. 

 As far as the construction process, this would be our normal progression:

protection - provision for temp lighting if needed

demolition and temp arrangements for appliance usage if needed

framing of new walls, floors or beams

rough plumbing If needed

rough electric for lights, appliances etc

hvac or venting as needed

insulation

drywall

tile prep, underlayment

tile or hardwood installation

more protection before cabinets to protect finished floors

install cabinets

install trim (base/crown etc)

measure/install countertops

install appliances

paint (sometimes this will  move ahead of countertops)

backsplashes

plumbing finish

electrical finish

cabinet hardware

provide & perform punch list 

remove protection

test electric, plumbing, appliance function

Note: inspections required vary by jurisdiction but for our area it will generally include foundation if an addition is involved, framing if structural changes, rough plumbing, rough electric  insulation, final plumbing, final electric, certificate of occupancy. 

Hope this helps

hire a licensed pro and avoid the pitfalls.

Each contractor has own estimating. Estimatehas to contain material selections so you can compare other contractors and know that you comparing "apples to apples". (Do not expect to have their cost broken down.)

Each phase can have estimated labor time. But that something that most likely included in to the total project cost.

Phase1. Get design done and analyze your lay out and cabinet functionality.

Phase 2. Materials to be used selection.Most impact on your budget makes your selections - door style, construction, finish. Be smart and flexible on door style to get most value for your money.

Phase 3.  Ask for referrals from previous customers from your contractor. Do your homework before you open doors for strangers. 

Phase 4. Sign contract, pay "down payment". Ask for payment and material delivery schedule for your project.

         Last but not the least. Reward your hardworking subs. 

Regards 

Manny Stiega

Set up includeing Dust Containment field, reverse air flow and floor protection

Demo concreete work, framing, roofing

Rough electrical

Rough plumbing

Inspection

Drywall,

Inspectioin

Mud and tape 

Cabinets and fixtures

Tile backsplash

Finish electrical

Finish plumbing

Fixtures

Finishes Painting 

Final Inspection 

Clean up

Photo Pizza Party

Each phase should show labor (both in house and sub), materials broken out

Hope this helps

Philip Anderson

HDR Remodeling 

Berkeley Ca

We have written on good bit on this subject: Please take a look at these blogs we wrote!

http://blog.akatlanta.com/2010/11/10-mistakes-not-to-make-when-heating.html

http://blog.akatlanta.com/2010/11/7-winterization-tips-to-keep-your-money.html

1.  Add insulation in walls and roof.  2.  Air seal your home. 3.  Install Low E or better dual pane doors and windows.

Many great answers here regarding insulation and air sealing.  If you have a pool, also look into upgrading your pump to a variable speed pump.  They run at lower RPM for filtering than they do for vacuuming.  This can be a significant saver in energy costs... and as always, GO SOLAR!

Solare Energy has been serving San Diego for 25 years and provides our customers with a free energy audit and rate analysis before designing a solar panel system for their homes.  This allows us to accurately size the system to your energy consumption needs and get you the best value for your investment.

Learn more at www.SolareEnergy.com or call 858-547-4300 for San Diego area solar installations.

Rob Shaw
Marketing Manager
Solare Energy, Inc.
San Diego, CA