73-79 when active in home. This can go up when everyone is at work or school.

Before you do anything new...look at what is already there. 

1. Do the existing windows allow drafts?  Upgrade existing windows first before considering new windows.  I don't think the payback is that great over existing windows that are properly maintained. 

2. Is the header serviced annually?  Change the filter monthly (there are so cheap), check all the ducts for breaks and tape them up.  Walk around the house when the heater(s) are on and check the temperatur in each room.  When you have done your homework then have a profeswsional come in.

3. Seal around the ceiling can lights on the second floor that are allowing heater air into the attic. 

4. Replace the seal around all your exterior doors.  This is really the case on the door from the garage to the house. 

Start there \Philp Anderson HDR Remodeling Berkeley CA

Many great answers here regarding insulation and air sealing.  If you have a pool, also look into upgrading your pump to a variable speed pump.  They run at lower RPM for filtering than they do for vacuuming.  This can be a significant saver in energy costs... and as always, GO SOLAR!

Solare Energy has been serving San Diego for 25 years and provides our customers with a free energy audit and rate analysis before designing a solar panel system for their homes.  This allows us to accurately size the system to your energy consumption needs and get you the best value for your investment.

Learn more at www.SolareEnergy.com or call 858-547-4300 for San Diego area solar installations.

Rob Shaw
Marketing Manager
Solare Energy, Inc.
San Diego, CA

I say insulation should be at the top of your list. I would also take a look at your water pumps.

Here's a few of the items we actuallyp ersonally suggest when going green: http://xtremegreenhomes.com/green_options.php.

We have written on good bit on this subject: Please take a look at these blogs we wrote!

http://blog.akatlanta.com/2010/11/10-mistakes-not-to-make-when-heating.html

http://blog.akatlanta.com/2010/11/7-winterization-tips-to-keep-your-money.html

I have yet to survey a home that didn't need additional insulation and more importantly....air sealing. 

While HVAC systems are typically older in most homes that we audit, every home that I have ever been in leaks too much air and much, much more than is required.

Air Sealing and Insulation would be #1 and #2 on my list.  After that, items like HVAC and windows will jockey for position depending on the condition of both. 

Here's the scoop:

It all depends on your usage and how much room you have for panels, but we routinely knock out 100% of our clients' electricity bills.

However, the system will almost certainly be what we call "grid-tied", meaning that you will still be connected to your utility. This is important as solar tends not to work so well at night. So what will happen is you will produce more during the day than you need, pouring the extra power back into your utility and running up a credit, essentially using the utility like a "power bank". You then pull power from the "bank" at night. Note that this may happen on a daily level, or over the year, with your system producing a net surplus some months, and using that surplus in months where production is less.

The upshot is that, while your net consumption of power from your utility over the year may be zero (or close to zero), you will still "need...power from your local power company" in order to compensate for variances in solar production.

In addition, different financing methods may work best with different production goals, due to the way your utility prices the power you use, i.e. in a tier structure, versus how your solar is financed. This is a bit more complicated, but I'd be happy to walk you through it if you want to give me a call - John Cook, (888) 603-4255.

I hope that wasn't too technical or convoluted, but I wanted to make sure you had the facts. Good luck!

While adding PV panels is a noble endeavor, it is unlikely to produce more than about one third of your annual electrical requirements.  Less than that, if you have air conditioning, even in a newly built, energy efficient home.  The financial savings, though, will continue to climb over time, as more dams and coal power are elliminated, and the cost of generation climbs steeply.  The payback time will shorten, and the lifecycle of the panels will net a return toward the rest of the power you use.

When it comes to energy efficiency, adding insulation is the most affordable upgrade that can be done to a 2-story home. With good insulation, there will be an immediate return on the money spent. A high performance energy efficient heating system is also very important. Energy efficient heating and good insulation work hand in hand by paying the homeowner back hundreds of dollars a year, along with the home being much more comfortable to live in. Lifetime aluminum metal roofing should rank very high on the priority list for an energy efficient home; certainly among the top three upgrades. The product itself is made from a very high percentage of post consumer aluminum. It is also considered to be among the most long lasting sustainable roofs that can be put on a home.There are aluminum roofs that are well over 100 years old in the USA. These roofs have very high reflectivity, which equates to high energy savings during the summer months or in the south where air conditioning is needed. These energy star rated roofs can save as much as 30% on energy as it relates to cooling costs. With proper insulation, energy efficient heating, and metal roofing, the home will have optimum energy efficiency and continue to remain at the most comfortable temperature based on the given seasons.

John,

Where is the home located in terms of climate region. There are some nuances when it comes to tuning glazing packages per elevation.

Keep in mind that standard Low-e glass will reduce the amount of radiant energy that enters through the window by more than 200% over clear glass right off the bat.

WoW Home Solutions

Since 80% of a window is glass, it is always wise to pick the right glass for the direction the window faces in your home.  LowE 366 Argon filled glass for the south and west exposures may be the best fit.  LowE 272 Argon filled glass for the north and east exposures might save you money and be just fine in those locations.  Visable light will be something you want to check if you have plants that require lots of light to grow.  The higher the number the more light for the plants.  Any window that has a U value of .27 or lower will be very energy efficient in both the summer and the winter.  Double pane vs. triple pane may make a difference, so be sure you review the manufacturers specifications before you make that decision.

The other decision you have to make is what kind of frame you want the window made of.  Vinyl, wood, wood clad and fiberglass are the main options you will have to consider.  Each has their plus and minus points.  However, as I stated above, 80% of a window is glass and most quality windows have the same glass options from the same manufacturers, so be sure you pick the right glass with a low U value and you should be happy.

Also, keep in mind that installation of the window is just as important as the quality of the window and the glass that is in it.  I advise you to get two or three bids and check each contractor out to make sure they have happy window clients.

The first thing to reduce energy is to see where it is being wasted.

 An energy audit with blower door test and infared camera is the best place to start. 

 The list of upgrades range from adding insulation, to replacing HVAC systems and everything in beteen, such as new windows and doors to installing smart theromstats. But because each home is different and has different needs the only way to be sure your upgrades are right for your home is to start with an energy audit.