Love to look and see what we can do for you! Give us a call!

If the tue does not leak when it is sitting full of water, try looking at the seal around the fill spouts and on/off handles.  We see a lot of leaks in those areas in tubes that are 15 or more years old.  

1) Fiberglass tubs are notorious for getting hairline cracks that usually open up when someone is standing in it with the water running.

2) Also it might be a leak from upstream (plumbing behind the walls going in) such as a leaking copper pipe or loose pex fitting. It could also be in your drainage as well. 

3) Is it a one piece shell? Sometimes fiberglass units come in 1, 2 or more pieces and can leak at the seams. Use a sealant to fil in these seams if you have any. 

4) I've actually seen windows in a tub unit leak rain, etc behind the unit and it appeared as if the tub was leaking. 

Your best bet may be to pull out the unit and see where the leaking appears to be happening. 

Good luck! 

The combination of answers above is pretty inclusive. The first responder's comments get you to the construction phase. I would add that recommendations from friends sometimes fall short if your project is of a different nature than theirs. Be sure your contractor has a track record in the type project you are considering.,

 Our estimates list out detail of the work scope included and an overall cost. When moving to the contract phase we submit a schedule of values that will be used for percentage complete pay apps. 

 As far as the construction process, this would be our normal progression:

protection - provision for temp lighting if needed

demolition and temp arrangements for appliance usage if needed

framing of new walls, floors or beams

rough plumbing If needed

rough electric for lights, appliances etc

hvac or venting as needed

insulation

drywall

tile prep, underlayment

tile or hardwood installation

more protection before cabinets to protect finished floors

install cabinets

install trim (base/crown etc)

measure/install countertops

install appliances

paint (sometimes this will  move ahead of countertops)

backsplashes

plumbing finish

electrical finish

cabinet hardware

provide & perform punch list 

remove protection

test electric, plumbing, appliance function

Note: inspections required vary by jurisdiction but for our area it will generally include foundation if an addition is involved, framing if structural changes, rough plumbing, rough electric  insulation, final plumbing, final electric, certificate of occupancy. 

Hope this helps

hire a licensed pro and avoid the pitfalls.

The above are two good, and siilar in approach answers, but there are two issues it seems no one includes:

1) If you house was built before 1978 it must be inspected by a certified contractor or lead paint inspector for lead paint before a remodel is started. If found the paint, or paintd material must be prperly abated. This can be a significant cost item.

2) Most remodel items like tile, cabinets, and paint are considered minor and don't require it in most jurisdictions, but electrical, plumbing, HVAC, and structural modifications require permits and inspections. A homeowner can save money by omitting them, but if you get busted, you'l pay and you may be without a kitchen for a long time.

Robert Johnson

Southern Home Improvement, LLC

Georgia

Set up includeing Dust Containment field, reverse air flow and floor protection

Demo concreete work, framing, roofing

Rough electrical

Rough plumbing

Inspection

Drywall,

Inspectioin

Mud and tape 

Cabinets and fixtures

Tile backsplash

Finish electrical

Finish plumbing

Fixtures

Finishes Painting 

Final Inspection 

Clean up

Photo Pizza Party

Each phase should show labor (both in house and sub), materials broken out

Hope this helps

Philip Anderson

HDR Remodeling 

Berkeley Ca

Each contractor has own estimating. Estimatehas to contain material selections so you can compare other contractors and know that you comparing "apples to apples". (Do not expect to have their cost broken down.)

Each phase can have estimated labor time. But that something that most likely included in to the total project cost.

Phase1. Get design done and analyze your lay out and cabinet functionality.

Phase 2. Materials to be used selection.Most impact on your budget makes your selections - door style, construction, finish. Be smart and flexible on door style to get most value for your money.

Phase 3.  Ask for referrals from previous customers from your contractor. Do your homework before you open doors for strangers. 

Phase 4. Sign contract, pay "down payment". Ask for payment and material delivery schedule for your project.

         Last but not the least. Reward your hardworking subs. 

Regards 

Manny Stiega

Peeling thermofoil doors is a verry comon problem. Your shortest way to fix that problem contact a local cabinet maker or kitchen showroom. Select desireble and available new door style and finnish. (I would recomend Shaker style just because of Value of this door). Get estimate for refacing and choose contractor you vant a work with. 

Da Vinci Cabinetry

Manny Stiega

This is not exactly an answer, but I just installed thermofoil  doors and drawers at a cost of 30K.  I hope your doors are old because this question got me worried.  

We like to use a sanded caulk that matches the grout for that seam between the countertop and backsplash. The flexibility of the caulk allows it to expand and contract without cracking out like normal grout. It's not a forever fix and needs to be touched up occasionaly, but it's a much better solution than just grouting that joint.