Hi Linda,

Sorry you are having problems with a relatively new window. I think more information is needed in order to provide you a valid answer that would actually help you remedy your problem.

Here are some questions that come into play:

1. The four pieces you say "have fallen down", are you referring to the dividers that either made a tick tac toe or diamond pattern in the glass? If so, are they in-between the glass, or are they external, as in the interior of your home? If they are external, we see broken grids all over Atlanta, and you're not alone. You can buy new replacement grids at a company that specializes in all types of grids. Contact Ro-Suco, you can find them online at www.rosuco.com, they'll be able to help you if that is the case.
2. If the grids have broken and collapsed in-between the glass, that is an entirely different matter. In the best of cases, the IG units (Insulated Glass) are installed within the window sashes, will need to be remade to replace the existing ones. The GOOD news is you would NOT need to replace the entire bow window, which will save you $1,000'S!

Linda, feel free to contact me at 770-217-1229 and I'll be happy to help you resolve this so you can enjoy your window like you once did.

Sincerely,

George

U.S. Windows & Exteriors

Ralph, Security Systems as we know have come along way over the years. The "glass break" or "open" sensors are what I believe you're speaking of. We use the ADT Pulse systems because of System functionality and how it operates.  My Previous Career Experiances are in Militarty EOD ( Bomb Squad) operations to include Advaced training in access and Denial Training/ operations  of each system and sensors. So my answer is based solely on the specific question answered. 1. Bruce is Spot on about warranty checks although I would add that ADT would more than Likly come out and reinstall or update at little to no cost and there functionality to me is key and they would be the ones with the experiace and structure to validate. From an Experiance base answer I would suggest looking possibly at updating to a Pulse style system or aka Smart home system that allows Video and active security measures. The importance of the installer or service provider being the installer  is based on the " durning Need time frame". knowing your system is set right is piece of mind and could be life saving.  Active motion sensor lights | IR and Proximity sensors inside | And a HOME setting for perimeter security are good standards of practice. Gavigan Homes

Billy- 

the best security system is a great plan and training 

You should contact Thompson Creek directly to make sure nothing you do will void your warranty.

Glenn-

I agree with my colleagues that you should hire a professional to do this.  Contact the manufacturer and see if they will install the glass, what the cost is, and how long the installation warranty is.  If they won't or it's too expensive, find a local professional with a home improvement license.

You say it's a vertical wall but it's on a roof?  If it's a window in a vertical wall find a window installer; if it's on the roof with flashing and shingles surrounding it find a roofer.

It may look easy, but trust me it's more complicated than it looks.  Installing it may be simple but ensuring it doesn't leak for the next 20 years takes some experience.

If you're a DIY guy, find someone who will let you help but will oversee the job and WARRANTY the installation.

Good luck

Joe

I agree with Doug, unless you are experienced in glass replacement, let a professional do it.  Definitely check with the manufacturer to see about the warranty unless you are passed your 10 year mark.  Doug explained the process well.

Wear gloves and protective eyewear.  The edge of glass is razor sharp and for possible glass shards, you want your eyes protected.  Also, never carry glass over your head.  I know this seems obvious, but the things I have seen..  It's just a reminder.

Additionally, if they are aluminum frames and are getting a lot of sun/heat, they will most likely fail and cloud up again.  Replace them completely with something that doesnt absorb heat like vinyl or fiberglass and maybe have Doug's guys come out and give you an estimate.  Sounds fair enough.

Good luck!

Rico Loza

Affordable Replacement Window Systems

Hi Glenn,

If they are cloudy between the panes it is almost always and indication of "Seal Failure". If the windows are still covered under a 10 year warranty you should first contact the window manufacturer. They may provide a service provider to install the glass as well as providing the glass itself. You may want to hire a pro to do this job. If you are in the Kansas City area, we do this work on most brands of windows.

If you plan to do this yourself you'll want to invest in a suction cup from a glazing supplier, or rent one from a tool rental or local glass supplier. This will make lifting those big glass units a lot easier.

Depending on what type of window that you have, there may be a trim piece that is removable around the glass and attached to the frame. If so, you'll need to carefully remove it to replace the glass. I say carefully because you may want to re use it, or if it is wood you might just want to replace it. Thes stops may be either on the interior side or the exterior of the unit.  Once this is off, you'll need to cut around the silicone adhesive or tape that is holding the glass in. Run a knife or a flat blade between the glass and the frame to seperate it. Some units may have a flexible boot that goes around the perimeter that will be removed and reused. Once the glass is out, scrape out any remaining sealant or tape and apply setting blocks on bottom and sides of the frame. Apply a bead of sealant to the perimeter of the frame where the glass is going and install the new glass units. Install the stops back around the glass. Once it cures, you can water test for leaks.  

Hope this helps.  

Doug Bennett / President,  All-Weather Windows Doors and Siding , Inc.

Depends on the options in the bow, roof requirements, bracing, material construction, etc.

Are you referring to Power Windows when you say "Power" Model SL 2700? 

About $3,500 -$4,000 trimmed out inside and out.

It seems like the caulk must have come loose. My recommendation is to recaulk the area and make sure that the gap is filled with insulation. Another option to look into is double expanding foam. Hope this helps!

Expansion and contraction, as mentioned previously, is a big driver of sealant failure.

The other part that was not discussed in moisture content.  Brick is largely moisture open and capillary draw of moisture will keep the brick wet and can cause the sealant to fail. 

If the home is new construction, the sealant that was used is cheap in most cases and was probably poorly applied.  Sealing large gaps requires the application of backer rod or some sort of backstop to apply the sealant to. 

The expansion rates are different for different materials but they aren't as dramatically different from one another often thought of. 

For example, Fiberglass is often touted as a much better material because of its more analogous coefficient of linear expansion with glass than vinyl.  That is true but it is not 7X less likely to expand than PVC.  More like 2X in most cases. 

Wood has a verly low expansion rate as related specifically to temperature but is moisture driven as Christi was referencing with the humidity statement.