I have seen a lot of great DIY carpenter bee traps that fill up with bees. I have friends that say the traps keep them out of the house. 

https://www.pinterest.com/explore/carpenter-bee-trap/

I believe Home Depot has some aerosol products that can nearly reach 40 ft, but not positive.

I would concur with the above answers.  If you are able to fill with wood putty and paint that would prove to be the most cost effective option.  If you would like to go further, determine the brand of the door and I'm sure you could find a replacement sash.  I am like you, I love my dog like my children, continue to be patient and show your bowser the love he deserves.

There is a bee spray you can mix in a pump up and reach the higher carpenter bee holes. This worked for me.

Bee spray typicaqlly has a really far reach or an exterminator. 

Consider, a new dog

There are a few options depending on the circumstances, if the dog has scratched the slab and depending on material, you'll need an entirely new slab. You have the option of painting over the scratch, but the odds of that peeling into the future are high. Our doors are steel and fibreglass, fibreglass would require an entirely new door slab to be installed if you wish to rid the problem for good. To surely rid the problem, the dog or puppy should be trained before repair unless you want to experience a fruitness endeavour. 

When dealing with a wooden door, their are a few DIY solutions like sanding, filling sanding again and painting/staining over. 

It looks like the pup teaches classes on how to be a beaver 101. Sanding, filling and matching the colour back would be the best option in this circumstance, or simply an entirely new replacement. 

It looks like the dog did a pretty good job on the door. Since the door is painted, you could sand the area down with some 150 grit sand paper. After it is sanded then you can apply some High performance wood filler or car bondo.

Apply a thin layer over the damaged area and allow it dry ( a few minutes or more depending on the amount of hardener you use). After it is dry, sand untill smooth and then apply a second layer if you need to and then sand smooth. After the area is the way you want it, prime it and paint it. 

The combination of answers above is pretty inclusive. The first responder's comments get you to the construction phase. I would add that recommendations from friends sometimes fall short if your project is of a different nature than theirs. Be sure your contractor has a track record in the type project you are considering.,

 Our estimates list out detail of the work scope included and an overall cost. When moving to the contract phase we submit a schedule of values that will be used for percentage complete pay apps. 

 As far as the construction process, this would be our normal progression:

protection - provision for temp lighting if needed

demolition and temp arrangements for appliance usage if needed

framing of new walls, floors or beams

rough plumbing If needed

rough electric for lights, appliances etc

hvac or venting as needed

insulation

drywall

tile prep, underlayment

tile or hardwood installation

more protection before cabinets to protect finished floors

install cabinets

install trim (base/crown etc)

measure/install countertops

install appliances

paint (sometimes this will  move ahead of countertops)

backsplashes

plumbing finish

electrical finish

cabinet hardware

provide & perform punch list 

remove protection

test electric, plumbing, appliance function

Note: inspections required vary by jurisdiction but for our area it will generally include foundation if an addition is involved, framing if structural changes, rough plumbing, rough electric  insulation, final plumbing, final electric, certificate of occupancy. 

Hope this helps

hire a licensed pro and avoid the pitfalls.

The above are two good, and siilar in approach answers, but there are two issues it seems no one includes:

1) If you house was built before 1978 it must be inspected by a certified contractor or lead paint inspector for lead paint before a remodel is started. If found the paint, or paintd material must be prperly abated. This can be a significant cost item.

2) Most remodel items like tile, cabinets, and paint are considered minor and don't require it in most jurisdictions, but electrical, plumbing, HVAC, and structural modifications require permits and inspections. A homeowner can save money by omitting them, but if you get busted, you'l pay and you may be without a kitchen for a long time.

Robert Johnson

Southern Home Improvement, LLC

Georgia

Set up includeing Dust Containment field, reverse air flow and floor protection

Demo concreete work, framing, roofing

Rough electrical

Rough plumbing

Inspection

Drywall,

Inspectioin

Mud and tape 

Cabinets and fixtures

Tile backsplash

Finish electrical

Finish plumbing

Fixtures

Finishes Painting 

Final Inspection 

Clean up

Photo Pizza Party

Each phase should show labor (both in house and sub), materials broken out

Hope this helps

Philip Anderson

HDR Remodeling 

Berkeley Ca

Each contractor has own estimating. Estimatehas to contain material selections so you can compare other contractors and know that you comparing "apples to apples". (Do not expect to have their cost broken down.)

Each phase can have estimated labor time. But that something that most likely included in to the total project cost.

Phase1. Get design done and analyze your lay out and cabinet functionality.

Phase 2. Materials to be used selection.Most impact on your budget makes your selections - door style, construction, finish. Be smart and flexible on door style to get most value for your money.

Phase 3.  Ask for referrals from previous customers from your contractor. Do your homework before you open doors for strangers. 

Phase 4. Sign contract, pay "down payment". Ask for payment and material delivery schedule for your project.

         Last but not the least. Reward your hardworking subs. 

Regards 

Manny Stiega

Windows and doors are the largest culprit in lost of energy efficiency. It may not be the cheapest option but will provide you with the largest impact.

Sorry to hear about your alarm wires.  There are a couple of differenct ways to go about resolving this issue.  We typically involve the servicing alarm company to make sure whatever is done to resolve the issue is accordance with their servicing the alarm system at the home.  They will be respoinsible and liable for the monitoring, so it is critical to involve them.  If possible to pull some additional length at the point of contact is helpful, or splicing on additional length is an option too.  If the wire issue gets too complicated, you may consider a wireless system.

I hope you found this helpful.  Please contact us directly of we can be of any service to you. john@assurancebuilders.com.