If it's solid red it might be indicating a tripped GFCI, if it's flashing it might be defective. When I say might it's because not all GFCI-s have the same type of light or color. Some are lit when on, some when tripped. I hope this helps

That sounds like it is a GFCI outlet, which simply put means your outlet has it's own breaker. Most codes now require outside electrical outlets to be GFCI for safety reasons. If it is flashing red it probably means the test button has been tripped by a finger or the breaker within the GFCI has been tripped from an electrical surge. If it has been tripped then it shouldn't have any power to it. Most have a reset button, press it and you should have power again. It it continues to trip, call a licensed electrician. 

Hire a reliable electrician who has many years of experience. Do not settle for the best price.

Here's the scoop:

It all depends on your usage and how much room you have for panels, but we routinely knock out 100% of our clients' electricity bills.

However, the system will almost certainly be what we call "grid-tied", meaning that you will still be connected to your utility. This is important as solar tends not to work so well at night. So what will happen is you will produce more during the day than you need, pouring the extra power back into your utility and running up a credit, essentially using the utility like a "power bank". You then pull power from the "bank" at night. Note that this may happen on a daily level, or over the year, with your system producing a net surplus some months, and using that surplus in months where production is less.

The upshot is that, while your net consumption of power from your utility over the year may be zero (or close to zero), you will still "need...power from your local power company" in order to compensate for variances in solar production.

In addition, different financing methods may work best with different production goals, due to the way your utility prices the power you use, i.e. in a tier structure, versus how your solar is financed. This is a bit more complicated, but I'd be happy to walk you through it if you want to give me a call - John Cook, (888) 603-4255.

I hope that wasn't too technical or convoluted, but I wanted to make sure you had the facts. Good luck!

Not sure but stay away from it...

In addition to the great response above. We often have clients that complain about the flickering or the dimmer switch plate feeling hot. Those are additional reasons to make sure your bulbs are the correct type to work with a dimmer switch. The hot plate of the dimmer switch tends to be pretty common, but can be helped by having bulbs that adjust properly with the switches.

Good information above,  Most fourescant bulbs can not be dimmed without special ballast and dimmer.  The dimmer should be rated for the total watts of the bulbs used.  If using LED bulbs make sure the dimmer is rated for LED bulbs, otherwise the lights may flicker.

All good answers. It should be noted also that in incandescent bulbs there are different wattage dimmers. The most common are 600 watt and 1500 watt. The lights being controlled by the dimmer should fall under these limits. 

You can use a dimmable CFL in case you want to go with energy savings. 

LED's are becoming a lot more affordable & we are seeing a higher percentage of customers using them. Might consider these if you haven't already.

You should find someone more competant, the major appliances should be on their own breaker (furnace on a 20a breaker and gas tankless on another 15 or 20a). It can be normal to spread out the circuit recepticals in a few rooms so if a breaker trips in a room there would be another receptical in that same room on another breaker so your not left in the dark. Also the panel should be properly labled. Good luck.

Yes, when using traditional incondesent bulbs make sure it is marked dimmable (most are). If you are moving into the realm of LED things get a bit more complicated. Many LED bulbs say dimmable but can only dim within a certain range. This means that when you get to the dimmer side of things you ayy notice a flicker. Often times the dimmer switch has a list of compatible bulbs.

Hi

The best way to answer this question is to direct you to a licensen Electrician that has worked with these type of jobs.  I am sorry I wish I could be more helpful.  Good Luck

I suggest you get the security company who monitors the system to repair it. They can tell you whether the electricians caused the damage. If so, send the bill to the electricians. In general, they should be responsible for damage they caused. In certain cases, it could fall under exclusion in the fine print of their quote or other printed materials you should reasonably have been expected to know about. If the wiring was a hidden condition or they had no knowledge it was there, they may not owe you for it. In that case, their desire for your good will might still recover it for you.