I would recommend that you look at remodeling magazine. They do an annual study of cost versus value For mini interior and exterior home improvements.
You have been getting some great input on your question. I have a couple of things to add, both new information as well as some variations on themes.
1) Someone mentioned closing the blinds in the room to reduce heat gain. Another option would be to install an exterior shade, awning or trellis to keep heat from getting into the room in the first place.
2) Instead of the black out shades, another option is window film. Window film is probably less expensive and still allows you the views that you probably have from that room. 3M makes some fabulous products that relect heat and prevents it from entering the room. They come in various thicknesses and tints that do not detract from the views.
3) Another person suggested looking at the age and performance of your windows. While this is an expensive option, it may be the most effective. There have been so many advancements in window technology. Installing windows with both a low Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) and U-factor, can really make a difference in keeping heat out. If you replace windows, you could also install some operable windows or a vent to reduce the build up of hot air in the room and actually get it out. This option would create a "chimney effect," based on the principle that hot air rises, and actually draws hot air out of the room. Sounds like you have installed some AC in the room which will provide cool air to replace that hot air drawn up and out of the room.
Best of luck to you, The Allen Construction Team
1. Add insulation in walls and roof. 2. Air seal your home. 3. Install Low E or better dual pane doors and windows.
We installed a room window a/c. We are also going to install blaclout shades. Having difficulty finding someone to install the shades due to the materials that the room is made of.. A/C makes the room a dream come true.
Energy efficent windows are a good investment.
I'm from Wisconsin and we have a program called Focus on Energy which implements the ENERGY STAR program for improving energy efficiency of older homes. I'm not sure what you have in your region, but I specifically recommend starting with an expert company that can do a blower door test on your home and use an infrared camera to detect where you have air leakage and heat loss.
The number one cause of heat loss is air leakage. So insulation alone will not solve that problem. Leaky ring joists in the basement where the walls, floor, and foundation meet are one culprit... there is generally lots of inward air leakage here. And in the attic, there are a bunch of sources of air leakage, where warm air wants to rise and escape up and out. (So by the way, ice dams on the roof are not solved by adding more attic ventilation; rather they are solved by first doing air sealing, and second verifying or improving insulation.)
If you intend to DIY this, you can still hire a consultant to do the pre-testing and post-testing, and you might even be eligible for some financial incentives. If you hire a professional company to do it, the cost can be reduced by those incentives.
If you won't hire a pro, then here's a few rules of thumb:
1) Remove fiberglass insulation from ring joists, and either use spray foam or rigid foam to insuate the ring joist, use spray foam to seal the rigid foam in place, minimum 2" thick and you can always fit the fiberglass insulation back in place again when complete.
2) Spray foam over top of wall plates in the attic.
3) Put a gasked on your attic hatch. If you have an attic ladder, buy a specific air sealing enclosure to prevent air leakage through it.
4) Find out if your recessed can lights are IC (Insulation Contact) rated or not. They will be labeled if they are. Build a sealed box around them allowing air space for heat build-up, and consider converting to LED lights so that there is less heat generated. If not IC rated, use cault to seal them to the drywall or plaster, and to close up the holes in the lights themselves.
That's a primer on things... there is more to be done, but these can help!
Well according to Elon Musk yes they are but I'm not sure you can get hold of teslas new shingles or get a price on them yet. But if you haven't checked them out, check out the YouTube video on tesla's new roofing
For both an existing and new construction home, the top three items that provide the greatest value and return on investment are as follows:
Additional items to consider include:
The combination of answers above is pretty inclusive. The first responder's comments get you to the construction phase. I would add that recommendations from friends sometimes fall short if your project is of a different nature than theirs. Be sure your contractor has a track record in the type project you are considering.,
Our estimates list out detail of the work scope included and an overall cost. When moving to the contract phase we submit a schedule of values that will be used for percentage complete pay apps.
As far as the construction process, this would be our normal progression:
protection - provision for temp lighting if needed
demolition and temp arrangements for appliance usage if needed
framing of new walls, floors or beams
rough plumbing If needed
rough electric for lights, appliances etc
hvac or venting as needed
insulation
drywall
tile prep, underlayment
tile or hardwood installation
more protection before cabinets to protect finished floors
install cabinets
install trim (base/crown etc)
measure/install countertops
install appliances
paint (sometimes this will move ahead of countertops)
backsplashes
plumbing finish
electrical finish
cabinet hardware
provide & perform punch list
remove protection
test electric, plumbing, appliance function
Note: inspections required vary by jurisdiction but for our area it will generally include foundation if an addition is involved, framing if structural changes, rough plumbing, rough electric insulation, final plumbing, final electric, certificate of occupancy.
Hope this helps
hire a licensed pro and avoid the pitfalls.
HardiePlank is a fiber-cement siding, whereas SmartSide is an engineered wood product. Fiber cement products do not rot as easily as wood products and most builders will recommend fiber cement over wood for that reason. If you choose either of these products, you will need to be dilligent about maintaining them (painting, checking for rot, etc.). Your other major option would be vinyl siding, which does not have the aesthetic appeal of wood or fiber cement, but is much easier to maintain.
Pamela, there are a lot of window replacement options on the market. It's important to have a window which is designed for your region in the U.S. here is a chart by energy star which contains this info: https://www.energystar.gov/products/building_products/residential_windows_doors_and_skylights/key_product_criteria
If one is in your area, see if a local business manufactures windows tailored for your portion of the U.S. Avoid builder grade replacements, and try to work with companies which have been in business for 30+ years who can stand behind the warranties they provide. Always read the fine print, and make sure a remodeler will warranty the installation.
The above are two good, and siilar in approach answers, but there are two issues it seems no one includes:
1) If you house was built before 1978 it must be inspected by a certified contractor or lead paint inspector for lead paint before a remodel is started. If found the paint, or paintd material must be prperly abated. This can be a significant cost item.
2) Most remodel items like tile, cabinets, and paint are considered minor and don't require it in most jurisdictions, but electrical, plumbing, HVAC, and structural modifications require permits and inspections. A homeowner can save money by omitting them, but if you get busted, you'l pay and you may be without a kitchen for a long time.
Robert Johnson
Southern Home Improvement, LLC
Georgia
LP is a woodbased product, where Hardi Plank is a fiber cement. They ar both very similar in cost here in the midwest. LP Smartsiding if fairly new the market as well.
Like Jim said before, a proper attic insulation will help with lowering your electric bill as well as heat reflective roof shingles and exterior paint, ex. tex-cote. For windows we use Anlin, 100% american made using the newest heat reflective technology. GreenLiving specializes in exterior energy efficient home improvements!