Valarie they dont make them in white but you can get them in a mill finish for under $10

Thanks for the valuable information.

Each case is unique but in general, the chimney should be done first. Special attention should be paid to the roof flashings around the chimney.  If the flashings are behind the stone then make sure they extend far enough into the shingles so the new roof can be flashed properly. If the flashings are surface mounted and there is a counter flashing then the roofer should have no problem making the chimney base watertight   

The leak and mold are time sensitive. Mold can be hazardous to your health. Dealing with mold properly means removing the sheetock and insulation once the leak is fixed. Don't let anyone tell you they can seal it in place and paint ove it. It must be removed. The foundation work can get vey expensive if you wait too long so don't put that off too long.

Hope this helps.

Call a professional certified roofer who can do a full inspection and report of how to proceed. Professional roofers can bring insite and cost savings others might not. They have years of experience and a trained eye to make sure all problems with a roof are discovered and remedied! Remember - When hail hits an asphalt shingle it often knocks off the protective granule coating. Once the granules are gone, the protective layer underneath is exposed to the elements. Always call a professional roofer!

If actual damage has occurred to the roof, due to hail, there is really no other way to fix the damage, except replacing the roof system.  

Depending on the type of roof that you have, if the damage is minor, you might be able to complete a spot repair, but that also depends on the condition of the roof.  Hail typically falls randomly over the entire roof, so when there is damage, it tends to be all over.  If your roof is older, it might not be in repairable condition, or your roofing material might have been discontinued and have no match available for sale.

I suggest having a Haag Engineering certified roof inspector or a structural engineer evaluate the roof and tell you if you have another option.  

I would rather think your gutter needs a good sealant. If your soffit is sagging, you have some structural issues.Most likely nothing to do with the gutter. 

Proper ventilation plays an important role in prolonging the life of your roof. During winter, attic ventilation is needed to prevent ice dams from forming, and during the hot summer months, ventilation helps to remove hot air which reduces mold growth and protects the shingles from excessive heat. Choosing the best attic ventilation is an important part of the process. Turbines or Ridge Vents are 2 of the choices. A turbine system is installed directly on the top of a roof and uses wind power to suck hot and humid air out of the attic. A turbine has a series of vanes that spin as wind passes through them. They are less costly dues to the fact that only a few shingles need to be removed and an appropriately sized hole is then drilled through the roof. Turbines do cause more air movement than ridge vents and this is due to their moving vanes. However if you do not live somewhere that has winds or are sheltered from them this system may not work as effectively when the weather gets very hot during the Summer season. A ridge vent runs across the top of the roof's peak. Unlike turbines, this venting style does not have any moving parts. A ridge vent is similar to a screen and allows heat to escape up and out of the attic. Ridge vent systems normally run the full length of the roof. For this system to be installed on an existing roof, the entire peak must be cut away, which can make the installation more expensive than installing a turbine. They cannot be installed on a flat roof or one with a pitch of less than 212 degrees. A ridge vent is a passive system and offers less air movement, and in moderate climates this style tends to be sufficient. In more extreme climates, one or more turbines will provide better circulation. For optimal performance, ridge vents require soffit venting to bring air up and out the top of the roof. Roof ridge vents help to release moisture from homes, which is especially useful during the winter when moisture has a greater impact. Ventilation With the help of wind, a ventilation system is created in the attic with a roof ridge vent. As wind passes over the roof ridge vent, it draws air out of the attic. The problem with traditional roofing is that once the outside air goes into the attic, it has no way to escape. Roof ridge-vent allows the outside air that enters to escape out the top of the roof, preventing damage--such as premature aging and cracking--to the attic and roof. With the help of wind, a ventilation system is created in the attic with a roof ridge vent. As wind passes over the roof ridge vent, it draws air out of the attic. Fresh air is then drawn into the underside of the vent, creating a circulation system of fresh air. Moisture can be released from many activities that are performed within homes, including running a washer, using a dishwasher or taking a shower. Moisture is one of the leading causes of damage to rafters, shingles, walls and insulation within homes. Roof ridge vents help to release moisture from homes, which is especially useful during the winter when moisture has a greater impact. Most homeowners prefer the look of roof ridge vents--which are sleek and blend in well with the other shingles--to other forms of ventilation systems, which often consist of large fans, turbines and vents. Other Systems Another benefit of roof ridge ventilation systems is that they are effective without being used in combination with other systems. Other types of ventilation systems, such as fans and powered ventilators, can even have an adverse effect when used with roof ridge vents because of airflow issues. It is very important that's your roof and roof system is installed correctly by a licensed roofing contractor. A roofing contractor can also help you determine the best type of attic ventilation for your home.

What did you decide to do then? Following the proper process would help.

You can proform both jobs at the same time if you are good at what you do. I have in the past grinded a Grove in the brick chimney all four sides then used a brake to bend a little half inch lip on the top of my flashing metal flashing into massonary Grove then caulked you will never ever have to worry about again in your lifetime Only reason I did massonary work first is because I didn't want to get my shingles all dusted.

Hi, I hope I can provide some insight and help. First, as a storm restoration contractor the insurance company does not usually supply enough materials to get the job done to meet building code, and they are not very responsive when trying to get a supplement, so I can understand why it is taking so long. It happens to me all the time. It is not code to put ice and water on the ridges, if that is what you mean by peaks, and I don't think it is in the valleys in MO, but you could call your local building inspector and just ask. Your shingles should have been installed on a day or two when the temps reached 40 or above as recommended by the manufacturer. With that being said, some of the biggest contractors in town still install them with temps well below that. To me that is a sign of contractor that does not care about quality. If the nails are exposed on the nail line of the shingle they were not installed correctly. Also, when the temps are below 40 the shingles become very brittle, so I'm sure they ripped due to handling in those temps. Those can be replaced very easily if there aren't to many of them. The area of concern is going to be water intrusion. However, I wouldn't worry to much about it on your first year of a new roof. You should be ok, but you need to make sure your issues are resolved.

Any damage to drip edge, fascia, soffit, etc. is also a very easy fix. If they do not fix these any of these items I would highly recommend filing a complaint with the BBB. In the St. Louis, MO area you can call Signature Roofing (573-424-4591) and they will take care of you. He has been trained by Haag Engineering to identify issues with asphalt shingles. 

Masonry work first. Best, Ken

Definitely before you do the roof, masonary work and any flashing around the chimney should be done prior to starting on the roofing.

Our recommendation would be to do the massonry work first and then roofing for a few different reasons.

1.This gives the masons freedom to step and walk on the roof without causing damage to the new shingles. 

2. You will want to make sure the new flashing that is intstalled around the chimney is installed correctly, accounting for any masonry changes and is not damaged due to installation.

3. Ultimately, that the new roof is not damaged and that the warranty does not get voided.