I would recommend that you look at remodeling magazine. They do an annual study of cost versus value For mini interior and exterior home improvements.
Solar shingles are expensive and unproven. I recommend Sun Power photo voltaic solar. An average home is $20,000 to $30,000 and the return on investment is 4 to 6 years on a 25 plus year system.
1. Add insulation in walls and roof. 2. Air seal your home. 3. Install Low E or better dual pane doors and windows.
Well according to Elon Musk yes they are but I'm not sure you can get hold of teslas new shingles or get a price on them yet. But if you haven't checked them out, check out the YouTube video on tesla's new roofing
Let's hear it for Elon Musk and his efforts to move the solar industry forward! Solar shingles have lots of potential. Hopefully, Tesla and Solar City will get it right. We used solar shingles about 15 years ago when installing a new roof and encountered some issues: 1) They were expensive! I would recommend getting a quote for both traditional PV panels versus the shingles and see what pencils out. The cost of PV has come down significantly in the last couple of years. Once you get the quote, be sure and compare the cost/efficiency/performance ratios of the two systems. 2) Maintenance can be an issue. There are more electrical connections with a roof shingle system vs a traditional PV system. More things to create potential problems. The shingles are typically installed in "strings" - where mulitple shingles work together in units. If one shingle has a problem, the entire string "goes down". Check to see how Solar City addressses this issue: can you easily identify where the bad shingle is and be able to replace it easily? Otherwise the efficiency of your system is compromised significantly. Another maintenance issue is keeping all the shingles clean. There is more work to wash down an entire roof periodically to remove dirt buildup than there is for a traditional PV system. 3) Availability: Is Tesla/Solar City providing the units in Atlanta? It may take them some time to gear up their distribution and train people to install them properly. Both important things to consider.
All that being said, it certainly makes sense to have your roof generate power for you! Regardless of whether you go the traditional PV system or shingles route. Best of luck!
For both an existing and new construction home, the top three items that provide the greatest value and return on investment are as follows:
Additional items to consider include:
Step one, if you have siding use a insulated vinyl siding with silica gel. Replace your windows with a double or triple insulated window system. And third your doors are very important. When you do replacement anything you want the doors and windows to fit the space perfectly. We can do these things and more at Jarrett Industries.
The combination of answers above is pretty inclusive. The first responder's comments get you to the construction phase. I would add that recommendations from friends sometimes fall short if your project is of a different nature than theirs. Be sure your contractor has a track record in the type project you are considering.,
Our estimates list out detail of the work scope included and an overall cost. When moving to the contract phase we submit a schedule of values that will be used for percentage complete pay apps.
As far as the construction process, this would be our normal progression:
protection - provision for temp lighting if needed
demolition and temp arrangements for appliance usage if needed
framing of new walls, floors or beams
rough plumbing If needed
rough electric for lights, appliances etc
hvac or venting as needed
insulation
drywall
tile prep, underlayment
tile or hardwood installation
more protection before cabinets to protect finished floors
install cabinets
install trim (base/crown etc)
measure/install countertops
install appliances
paint (sometimes this will move ahead of countertops)
backsplashes
plumbing finish
electrical finish
cabinet hardware
provide & perform punch list
remove protection
test electric, plumbing, appliance function
Note: inspections required vary by jurisdiction but for our area it will generally include foundation if an addition is involved, framing if structural changes, rough plumbing, rough electric insulation, final plumbing, final electric, certificate of occupancy.
Hope this helps
hire a licensed pro and avoid the pitfalls.
The above are two good, and siilar in approach answers, but there are two issues it seems no one includes:
1) If you house was built before 1978 it must be inspected by a certified contractor or lead paint inspector for lead paint before a remodel is started. If found the paint, or paintd material must be prperly abated. This can be a significant cost item.
2) Most remodel items like tile, cabinets, and paint are considered minor and don't require it in most jurisdictions, but electrical, plumbing, HVAC, and structural modifications require permits and inspections. A homeowner can save money by omitting them, but if you get busted, you'l pay and you may be without a kitchen for a long time.
Robert Johnson
Southern Home Improvement, LLC
Georgia
Set up includeing Dust Containment field, reverse air flow and floor protection
Demo concreete work, framing, roofing
Rough electrical
Rough plumbing
Inspection
Drywall,
Inspectioin
Mud and tape
Cabinets and fixtures
Tile backsplash
Finish electrical
Finish plumbing
Fixtures
Finishes Painting
Final Inspection
Clean up
Photo Pizza Party
Each phase should show labor (both in house and sub), materials broken out
Hope this helps
Philip Anderson
HDR Remodeling
Berkeley Ca
Each contractor has own estimating. Estimatehas to contain material selections so you can compare other contractors and know that you comparing "apples to apples". (Do not expect to have their cost broken down.)
Each phase can have estimated labor time. But that something that most likely included in to the total project cost.
Phase1. Get design done and analyze your lay out and cabinet functionality.
Phase 2. Materials to be used selection.Most impact on your budget makes your selections - door style, construction, finish. Be smart and flexible on door style to get most value for your money.
Phase 3. Ask for referrals from previous customers from your contractor. Do your homework before you open doors for strangers.
Phase 4. Sign contract, pay "down payment". Ask for payment and material delivery schedule for your project.
Last but not the least. Reward your hardworking subs.
Regards
Manny Stiega
John,
There are options available to go solar and be completely independent of you local utility provider. However, this type of set-up (solar+storage) is much more costly than the traditional "grid-tied" system mentioned by Mr. Cook. There are significant developments in the works for the energy storage industry and speculation suggests that batteries will become more reasonably priced in the next 3-5 years or so.
Until then, many folks are opting to install a grid-tied solar panel system, which can often offset 100% of your utility bill (minus a nominal monthly interconnection fee of $5 or so). In some cases, fully offsetting your electric bill isn't possible because of shading or roof complexity. When battery storage becomes more affordable, you can add storage and truly become energy independent!
The energy efficiency of a home relies on several factors.
The most dominant of these factors is the insulation used, both within the perimeter walls and attic. This would include the houses ability to breath as well as maintain a good barrier. It's not so much the amount of insulation as the type and installation methods.
Another factor that effects the energy efficiency of your home is your windows and doors. They come in all varieties of energy ratings, and are also reliant on the installation methods used.
The third thing that I would look at is the ventilation of your attic. If your attic has the necessary ventilation needed it can reduce energy cost as well as prolong the life of your roof system.