Most states do have a 3 day right of recison. This allows a customer to cancel a contract without any penalties and or fees within 3 business days of contract. However in most cases that rule does not apply and the law does not apply if you have invited the contractor over and or if you have gone to their place of business. This law was put in place for the high pressure door knockers. 

Again if you set up an apointment with a contractor and invited them to your home the 3 day does not apply.

That said if there is a real good reason, car accident, unforseen expsences etc. most contractors will allow you out of a contract even if after 3 days. 

Lastly please keep in mind usually 30% of the cost of the job is actually before the job has started, marketing, commisions, adminstration etc. etc. 

I hope this helps.

Tim Brown RGS Exteriors and Contruction

www.utahgutter.com

801-280-3110

I would agree...let you contractor know immeately by a phone all that you are excersising your 3 day option.  Then follow the cancellation by the letter of the law. 

I would recommend that you keep it professional, short an if possible friendly.  If the contractor wants to know how they could have done it better, please be factural and not immotional.

Phiip Anderson

Berkeley Ca

In MN. we have the same 3 day right to rescind. This is standardized form (written legibally) in type 10 bold letter type. My understanding, it is required to be given to the client if contract you sign is in the homeowners residense. Not if the contract is signed in the our company's office. We give it to our clients either way. The 1st day starts the day after you sign and is counted daily except for weekends and holidays. 

The real issue is... if you are having 2nd thoughts about being in contract with a particular contractor. I am thinking that I as a contractor, I would certainly need to know the issues, even if after "3 days right to rescind" has passed. I typically don't order product for any project until the time period has passed. If you want to get out of your contractoral obligations, there should not be any financial obligations from your part if contract is legally rescinded according to the form and in an appropriate time period. If after there may be some fees as your contractor may have spent time to proceed with your material and scheduling process for your project. 

Hope this helps.

Texas also has a 3 day RoR.

In MA we have the three day right of recession policy. Our contracts have a Notice of Cancellation document that is in NCR form. The homeowner mails or faxes back a signed copy within three days. 

If your document is unreadable which to me is a warning sign I would call them and ask them what to do and send an email cancelling as well. 

If you have any further questions you can call me at 978-304-0495. Hope I was able to help you.

Stepahnie Vanderbilt 

www.mycoastalwindows.com 

Windows and doors are the largest culprit in lost of energy efficiency. It may not be the cheapest option but will provide you with the largest impact.

Use plumbing soder that comes in a roll.  Break off a piece and put in the hole then put the screw back in. 

I am assuming it is a standard steel entry door handset.  If the screws are not striped, simply tighten the screws as you would on any entry or passage set.

Christofer, There is a lot written about your particular condition. What I would do would be to install a spray polyurethane insulation (closed cell insulation) into the attic ceiling and down to and including the eaves. this installed over a 1/4" plywood that would be "cleated" down at a minimum of 1" below the bottom of the roof sheathing, thus eliminating the "hot roof" situation. As far as moisture... if you understand that warm air rises and carries the moisture up (another reason i would use a closed cell product) then it makes sense to foam any walls or kneewalls as well. The venting on the top side would not be to eliminate any interior moisture, but to make your shingles last longer (keep them from overheating). Quite a few asphalt companies have disclaimers on warrantees because of this issue. You would need to check with your steel roof manufacturer how they respond to a hot roof application. 

Ok so you don't really want all that moisture collecting on your windows and or finished wall substrates in the attic. So an ERV/HRV or even the furnace fan run continuously would help distrubute or evacute the excess moisture if this is your main house furnace (air handler). FYI- change filters monthly in these systems to help mitigate possible mold issues. I recommend the 6" combustion air (bringing in dry outside air) code required in IRC. I am not sure if this furnace unit in your attic is the primary furnace (air handler) for the home. If so that would help distribute attic moisture to the lower parts of the home. If separate attic unit only, I'm not thinking it will ever distribute moist warm air to the lower level like you suggest.

Remember this... once you start changing the function of your home's ventilation/conditioned or unconditioning of a space you will be changing the whole dynamics of how the house used to function. Henceforth do your homework. All this said...I run my company business in the extreme temperature zone of Minnesota. Your local heating guys should have a better handle on providing a safe living environment for your family. Mold can be a serious issue.  

We've done this application numerous times in southeastern PA with one subtle change, we use closed cell foam insulation directly against the underside of the roof sheathing. Open cell will continue to let air/humidity through, closed cell will not. Since air can't move through the closed cell foam there isn't any need for air flow under the roof sheathing because there won't be any humidity there to potentially condensate. Air already moves through the fiberglass insulation and that won't change when the Attic becomes conditioned space. I believe it would be best to remove ALL of the existing fiberglass ceiling insulation so that the Attic space becomes 'one' with the rest of the House. Fresh air intake to the fossil fuel furnace is necessary. It should be set up with a power damper that opens when the furnace turns on to allow combustion air directly to the heat chamber. When the furnace isn't running the damper is closed to keep unconditioned air out of the Attic.

Dennis D. Gehman, CR, MSA, CLC, CKBR, GAC, CAPS

President

Gehman Design Remodeling

NARI = National Association of the Remodeling Industry

CR = NARI Certified Remodeler

MSA = CertainTeed Master Shingle Applicator

CLC = NARI Certifled Lead Carpenter

CKBR = NARI Certified Kitchen & Bath Remodeler

GAC = Green Advantage Certified

CAPS = Certified Aging in Place Specialist