Painting over thermo foil will not be a long term solution. It is a smooth non-porus material. Your best bet is to replace the doors. There are lots of options today that weren't available a few years back. If you want to paint, you can order raw mdf doors and have them painted to match the cabinets.
Some of our local painters have had success painting over thermafoil. Make sure you rough up the fronts a bit with a fine grit sandpaper which will help the paint adhere. Talk to your local paint store about the best primer and top coat to use on your material. It might be helpful to actually take a door or drawer front into the paint store. Good luck!
Unfortunately, you really can't paint over Thermofoil. If you don't want to replace all of the cabinets, we usually suggest replacing just the doors and drawer fronts. Those are done in Thermofoil, but the cabinet boxes and faceframes are painted wood, which can be repainted. The new doors and drawer fronts could be painted any color you like, and the cabinet boxes can be done to match. This would give your kitchen a whole new look.
If you have made the decision to hire a contractor to complete any home improvement project I would recommend they meet the following minimum qualification(s)
Complemenary paint with countertops scribed to the wall is a clean look. If you use eggeshell paint, it is durable too.
When interviewing contractors, check online reviews and call references to make sure the company has a track record for being on budget. After vetting the contractor, with detailed plans and specifications you don't have to worry about change orders unless you make changes. I usually suggetst to homeowners to have a 5% - 10% contingencydepending on the size of the project, not for change orders, but for addtions or upgrades they may want.
Glen offered a very accurate and thorough answer to the question. The only thing I would add to it is the importance of receiving a detailed construction contract from your contractor. This should list (as Glen mentioned) model numbers, etc. What you should stay away from are "allowances". They are the number one driver for change orders. Allowances are often used in a contract when either the homeowner hasn't made a decision on a finish or fixture or the contractor is unsure how to bid a specific portion of the project. Inevitably there will be confusion as to what the allowance truly allowed for and what the final product/ decision did to the original price.
Best bet is to wait and start your project after you've made all the selections- and then figure that inspiration will strike you when you least expect it and you'll be adding that 10% at some point.
Have fun!
A change order is written (or at least should be) any time there is a 'change' in the original scope of work for your project. It documents this 'change' and any additional cost (or credit) that you as the homeowner may incur. For example: your contract clearly specifies that you have selected laminate countertops for your kitchen, but shortly after the contractors begin demolishing your existing kitchen you decide you want to upgrade to quartz countertops. The contractor will write a change order specifying this change and what the additional amount will be. If you accept, both parties sign the document and each gets a copy. It now becomes a legal addition to your contract. Probably the most common causes of a change order are 1) when hidden conditions are found after the contractors have peformed the demolition phase (defects in the structure or previous workmanship in your home, dicovery of hazardous materials, etc.) and 2) because the written scope of work is vague or there simply is no written scope of work. The scope of work should be extremely detailed listing makes, model numbers, colors and finishes, door styles, etc. as well as the specific tasks to be performed. The more detailed the better. You want to make sure that both parties understand exactly what is to be done (and sometimes what is NOT going to be done) and what materials are going to be included. The best way to avoid change orders is to select a company to work with that is vastly experienced and specializes in the kind of work that you want done. There will be far less chance that they will be "surprised" when they begin constructing your project. Have a detailed scope of work and working drawings or prints that each party clearly understands and signs before the project begins. In a perfect world, if you don't change your mind during construction, there shouldn't be any change orders. A rule of thumb that I suggest to homeowners is to leave about 10% of the contract amount for contingencies. If your maximum budget is $40,000., don't sign a contract for $40,000. That leaves you no way to accomodate any change orders; whether they're for hidden conditions or, more likely, you decide to add or upgrade something to the project. Your human nature will have a tendency to do this. If, after seeing your project start to come together, you decide that a little addition here and there would now be the perfect compliment to bring your kitchen to another level, you will have set aside a little extra money to be able to do that.
Here is a list of what "not to do" with kitchen remodeling....
http://freshome.com/2012/10/23/10-mistakes-you-dont-want-to-make-in-your-kitchen-design/
Here is actuall pictures in houzz you can see as well. Good luck!
http://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/828020/list/kitchen-design-flaws
Please read this blog! It is very helpful when looking for the right contractor.
http://fineremodelutah.com/how-to-work-with-your-contractor/
a stainless steel film will be easy to keep clean and won't do much damge to the wall when removed. http://www.amazon.com/Instant-Appliance-Stick-Stainless-Steel/dp/B00BAUPS9M
Full 42" upper cabinets are the easiest way to maximize sotrage in any kitchen. A lazy susan in the corner cabinets are the best way to maximize that space as well. Using a microwave with an exhaust instead of a hood over your range can free up counter space in any kitchen. Other less traditional options can be opting for a smaller dish washer such as a drawer or 18" wide unit.