Insulation is insulation regardless of type.  Whatever the R-Value per inch of the specific material is, times the number of inches, will equal the total R-Value.  We are looking for R-49 to be Energy Star. 

If the roof is not vented or we are talking about a hot roof deck, that is another consideration. 

The floors in your home, while insulation will certainly mitigate this delta, will be different temperatures as the laws of thermodynamics are universal. 

Get the insulation in the attic to R-49, seal the ductwork, seal the top plates, etc. and you will be good. 

I think you really need to see both on a home and decide what looks better to you.  Vinyl will be cheaper and is a more modular system and less prone to leakage and installation errors. 

+1 to the previous comments. Depends on what the foam manufacturer specifies as well as what the exterior sheathing is going to be. I would also recommend a thicker foam for additional insulation and thermal break if possible. Depends on what climate you are in and what the wall construction is when it comes to optimal foam depth.

What type of fence are you leaning toward? Once you get into the larger fences, they are typically 4 or 3 board style horse fences.

A picture is going to be worth a thousand words here.  Are you referring to a cooling, i.e. interior unit, on HVAC?

If anyone tells you that you can save "X" with windows, throw them out of the home. Will you save something, yes. Is is impossible to tell what that something will be without a laboratory environment, yes as well.

When looking at window performance, it is imperative that you compare both U-Factors and Air Infiltration rates. A window that is tighter will be more efficient over its lifespan in the home.

WoW Home Solutions

I would encourage you to read up on SPF and if you do go that route, make sure you get a great and insured installer.  SPF does have additional benefit from and air sealing standpoint but beyond the airtightness improvements, does not (in the case of OC SPF) have any greater R-Value than traditional batting assuming that both are in an static air environment.  Best thing you can do from a real high performance wall assembly is to thermally uncouple the exterior wall from the framing.  This will net you a much higher performance assembly than SPF alone but should be done by someone that is familiar with this approach and applications. 

SPF is great but I prefer it to be used as an air sealant first and foremost. 

Educate yourself on the pros and cons before you engage in an insulation schedule. 

Eric Novotny

John,

Are you referring to insulating the ceiling of the garage (i.e. cold floors above)?   Will you be dropping the ceiling or are you looking for options with minimal disturbance?

John,

1. Surrounding trees should be trimmed back and prepared to handle the snow load.
2. Make sure windows and doors are caulked.
3. Clear items away from the side of the that could trap snow drifts and allow for melting agains the side of the home.
4. Make sure the attic ventilation is adequate and insulation levels are up to code to help mitigate ice dam formation
5. If the home has a crawlspace, make sure pipes are insulated and prepared for the temparature lows.

If you can post up a picture of the home I can give you more acute observations. 

WoW Home Solutions

Abe nailed the answer for you.

If the windows are due for replacement, look for a window with offset glazing or an option of laminated glass inside the standard set of windows.

Dedicated STC windows will usually have a deeper frame to accomodate an integrated storm sash for additional noise cancelling improvements.

Be sure that the windows are the source of the issue before spending big bucks on them. 

Big +1 to Abe's feedback.

He is 100% right on the differences.

Inserts can be done very effectively with no weak links in the system in a vast majority of the cases.  Where it really pays dividends to go with a full, new construction window is in situations where you are disturbing the drainage plane and not able to properly access and rebuild it via insert application

Abe's pictures are a perfect example of that.

If you can afford the cost differential and you are thinking about doing a siding project...absolutely do them together.  That is the most comprehensive installation to go back with the proper flashing, nailing flange, drip cap, etc. 

In most homes, the neccesity of new windows does not usually crack the top 3 in terms of energy efficiency improvements.

You can usually get more efficiency mileage and bang for your remodeling dollar from othere retrofits (air sealing, insulation, etc.).

That being said, insulation does not improve the visual resale of the home or make the home prettier from the curb.  Windows have tangible impact on resale and on brightening up the home's exterior.

One thing that is never accounted for in energy modeling when comparing existing windows to replacement windows is the net improvement in air tightness.  This improvement can often times supercede the impact on the homes efficiency as compared to the total unit R-value improvement. 

What is the wall construction of the home?

Before making a recommendation about painting, you have to know what the vapor permeance and structure of the wall is.  Improper placement of a vapor retarder can have disatrous implications.

WoW Home Solutions

Michael,

Eric pretty much nailed it. 

It is not usually worth it in my opinion and especially given the nature of most leaks and the condition of most sheathing. 

Roofs aren't cheap so I think the math usually plays out that the full tear off is a better idea based on the fact that you get a better install and will likely have a roof that will last longer.

WoW Home Solutions