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If you have the extra space, and depending on its use, a walk-in pantry is a luxurious upgrade. In most cases, where floor space is at a premium, pantry cabinets are the best bet. Looking a a bank of finely crafted cabinets is also much more applealing than a closet door.
As for cost, you get more for your dollar with cabinets as well. Framing a drywall closet with fixed-shelves may be slightly cheaper, but much of that cost is labor. We advise the client to put the money in the product.
When you add pull-outs to anything the cost rises exponentially. It's improtant in the design process to determine a good balance between accessibility and organization to avoid unnessisary cost overruns.
The small walk in pantry will be the less expensive option. However, having a cabinet that functions as a pantry is often a better use of space and ends up as the more preferred option by my clients.
But it's all about you (or your client)! What would you/they prefer? Is the storage space best utilized with just simple open shelving? or would it be organized best with pull-outs and drawers? There are obvious pros and cons to each, in my experience - the extra cost of a cabinet wins 90% of the time.
I am not sure where you are located, but have you looked through the GuildQuality Contractors to see if there are any members in your area? A tile contractor or renovation company would defintely be able to help you!
The combination of answers above is pretty inclusive. The first responder's comments get you to the construction phase. I would add that recommendations from friends sometimes fall short if your project is of a different nature than theirs. Be sure your contractor has a track record in the type project you are considering.,
Our estimates list out detail of the work scope included and an overall cost. When moving to the contract phase we submit a schedule of values that will be used for percentage complete pay apps.
As far as the construction process, this would be our normal progression:
protection - provision for temp lighting if needed
demolition and temp arrangements for appliance usage if needed
framing of new walls, floors or beams
rough plumbing If needed
rough electric for lights, appliances etc
hvac or venting as needed
tile prep, underlayment
tile or hardwood installation
more protection before cabinets to protect finished floors
install trim (base/crown etc)
paint (sometimes this will move ahead of countertops)
provide & perform punch list
test electric, plumbing, appliance function
Note: inspections required vary by jurisdiction but for our area it will generally include foundation if an addition is involved, framing if structural changes, rough plumbing, rough electric insulation, final plumbing, final electric, certificate of occupancy.
Hope this helps
hire a licensed pro and avoid the pitfalls.
The above are two good, and siilar in approach answers, but there are two issues it seems no one includes:
1) If you house was built before 1978 it must be inspected by a certified contractor or lead paint inspector for lead paint before a remodel is started. If found the paint, or paintd material must be prperly abated. This can be a significant cost item.
2) Most remodel items like tile, cabinets, and paint are considered minor and don't require it in most jurisdictions, but electrical, plumbing, HVAC, and structural modifications require permits and inspections. A homeowner can save money by omitting them, but if you get busted, you'l pay and you may be without a kitchen for a long time.
Southern Home Improvement, LLC
Set up includeing Dust Containment field, reverse air flow and floor protection
Demo concreete work, framing, roofing
Mud and tape
Cabinets and fixtures
Photo Pizza Party
Each phase should show labor (both in house and sub), materials broken out
Hope this helps
Each contractor has own estimating. Estimatehas to contain material selections so you can compare other contractors and know that you comparing "apples to apples". (Do not expect to have their cost broken down.)
Each phase can have estimated labor time. But that something that most likely included in to the total project cost.
Phase1. Get design done and analyze your lay out and cabinet functionality.
Phase 2. Materials to be used selection.Most impact on your budget makes your selections - door style, construction, finish. Be smart and flexible on door style to get most value for your money.
Phase 3. Ask for referrals from previous customers from your contractor. Do your homework before you open doors for strangers.
Phase 4. Sign contract, pay "down payment". Ask for payment and material delivery schedule for your project.
Last but not the least. Reward your hardworking subs.
Peeling thermofoil doors is a verry comon problem. Your shortest way to fix that problem contact a local cabinet maker or kitchen showroom. Select desireble and available new door style and finnish. (I would recomend Shaker style just because of Value of this door). Get estimate for refacing and choose contractor you vant a work with.
Da Vinci Cabinetry
We like to use a sanded caulk that matches the grout for that seam between the countertop and backsplash. The flexibility of the caulk allows it to expand and contract without cracking out like normal grout. It's not a forever fix and needs to be touched up occasionaly, but it's a much better solution than just grouting that joint.
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