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The combination of answers above is pretty inclusive. The first responder's comments get you to the construction phase. I would add that recommendations from friends sometimes fall short if your project is of a different nature than theirs. Be sure your contractor has a track record in the type project you are considering.,
Our estimates list out detail of the work scope included and an overall cost. When moving to the contract phase we submit a schedule of values that will be used for percentage complete pay apps.
As far as the construction process, this would be our normal progression:
protection - provision for temp lighting if needed
demolition and temp arrangements for appliance usage if needed
framing of new walls, floors or beams
rough plumbing If needed
rough electric for lights, appliances etc
hvac or venting as needed
tile prep, underlayment
tile or hardwood installation
more protection before cabinets to protect finished floors
install trim (base/crown etc)
paint (sometimes this will move ahead of countertops)
provide & perform punch list
test electric, plumbing, appliance function
Note: inspections required vary by jurisdiction but for our area it will generally include foundation if an addition is involved, framing if structural changes, rough plumbing, rough electric insulation, final plumbing, final electric, certificate of occupancy.
Hope this helps
hire a licensed pro and avoid the pitfalls.
The above are two good, and siilar in approach answers, but there are two issues it seems no one includes:
1) If you house was built before 1978 it must be inspected by a certified contractor or lead paint inspector for lead paint before a remodel is started. If found the paint, or paintd material must be prperly abated. This can be a significant cost item.
2) Most remodel items like tile, cabinets, and paint are considered minor and don't require it in most jurisdictions, but electrical, plumbing, HVAC, and structural modifications require permits and inspections. A homeowner can save money by omitting them, but if you get busted, you'l pay and you may be without a kitchen for a long time.
Southern Home Improvement, LLC
Set up includeing Dust Containment field, reverse air flow and floor protection
Demo concreete work, framing, roofing
Mud and tape
Cabinets and fixtures
Photo Pizza Party
Each phase should show labor (both in house and sub), materials broken out
Hope this helps
Each contractor has own estimating. Estimatehas to contain material selections so you can compare other contractors and know that you comparing "apples to apples". (Do not expect to have their cost broken down.)
Each phase can have estimated labor time. But that something that most likely included in to the total project cost.
Phase1. Get design done and analyze your lay out and cabinet functionality.
Phase 2. Materials to be used selection.Most impact on your budget makes your selections - door style, construction, finish. Be smart and flexible on door style to get most value for your money.
Phase 3. Ask for referrals from previous customers from your contractor. Do your homework before you open doors for strangers.
Phase 4. Sign contract, pay "down payment". Ask for payment and material delivery schedule for your project.
Last but not the least. Reward your hardworking subs.
Peeling thermofoil doors is a verry comon problem. Your shortest way to fix that problem contact a local cabinet maker or kitchen showroom. Select desireble and available new door style and finnish. (I would recomend Shaker style just because of Value of this door). Get estimate for refacing and choose contractor you vant a work with.
Da Vinci Cabinetry
We like to use a sanded caulk that matches the grout for that seam between the countertop and backsplash. The flexibility of the caulk allows it to expand and contract without cracking out like normal grout. It's not a forever fix and needs to be touched up occasionaly, but it's a much better solution than just grouting that joint.
The trick with caulking is to spray the wet caulking with Windex and then tool it with your finger. For "rookies" you may want to use masking tape. Here is a YouTube video that might help, too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPGKdwnHhaE
First, clean out the existing caulk the best you can with a utility knife, flat razor or a putty knife. To get it extra clean and depending on what type of caulk was there before, you can use baking soda and a rag to remove hard water build up and caulk residue. Once you've done that, I recommend GE Silicone 2 or Dap Kitchen and bath caulk. (I like the small hand tubes, not the kind that goes in a gun.) Water based caulks are easier to work with, but silicone has it's advantages. To apply silicone, clean and dry the area, apply a small bead, then spray the area with soapy water. This will keep the silicone from spreading up the edge of the splash or onto the counter. Then wipe once with your finger and your done. The waterbased caulk can be applied in a small bead and then cleaned up/smoothed with a wet rag.
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