Yes, contact the installer. Hae them check it. Just from the sound, it could be anything from a bad heating element, malfunctioning thermostat, to being plumbed backward, to name a few. Either way somone qualified to diagnose and repaitr the problem needs to look at it.
I would recommend contacting the company that installed the water heater
What make & model is your new water heater?
Hello Bin,
If you have not done so already, it helps to drain the system at the lowest point. Meaning apply the shut off valve first, open the faucet at the lowest point (usually in the basement or hose bib) so the system can drain, then open a faucet at the highest point. This will allow air into the system and allow it to drain more quickly. Much like releasing your finger off the top of a full drinking straw.
We hope it helps!
It depends on the faucet and whether the faucet has an aereator. Even when the valve is turned into the off positions, there is still some residual water in the faucet, and aereator. Once all of the water on the room side of the faucet has drained out, the dripping will stop.
I don't know but there is some mojor problem with my sewer main line. I think it is severly clogged and think that only a professional can fixed it. Which is the best trenchless sewer repairs in NJ.
We like to use a sanded caulk that matches the grout for that seam between the countertop and backsplash. The flexibility of the caulk allows it to expand and contract without cracking out like normal grout. It's not a forever fix and needs to be touched up occasionaly, but it's a much better solution than just grouting that joint.
The trick with caulking is to spray the wet caulking with Windex and then tool it with your finger. For "rookies" you may want to use masking tape. Here is a YouTube video that might help, too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPGKdwnHhaE
First, clean out the existing caulk the best you can with a utility knife, flat razor or a putty knife. To get it extra clean and depending on what type of caulk was there before, you can use baking soda and a rag to remove hard water build up and caulk residue. Once you've done that, I recommend GE Silicone 2 or Dap Kitchen and bath caulk. (I like the small hand tubes, not the kind that goes in a gun.) Water based caulks are easier to work with, but silicone has it's advantages. To apply silicone, clean and dry the area, apply a small bead, then spray the area with soapy water. This will keep the silicone from spreading up the edge of the splash or onto the counter. Then wipe once with your finger and your done. The waterbased caulk can be applied in a small bead and then cleaned up/smoothed with a wet rag.
Sorry to hear of your troubles.I would first start with calling the company; they might not know that the installation was not done correctly.Given the opportunity most contractors will correct the mistake.If that does not work then I would call the local Better Business Bureau. Also most states have a home improvement regulatory commission of some fashion. In our state, Maryland, contractors must be licensed by the Maryland Home Improvement Commission.Dissatisfied homeowners can file a complaint to the commission for unsatisfactory work.
As with everything the BUYER MUST BEWARE. It is you the homeowners responsibility to do your homework BEFORE you buy. The home improvement industry is full of smooth talking salesmen that promise the world. Hire contractors that have a long history of reliable service. They usually are not the cheapest contractor in town; but high quality reliable service does not come cheap. In the long run they will be your cheapest option... considering the fact that now you have to do the same job twice!
A tankless water heater can certainly be installed in a condominium - similar to any other structure. The easiest model is one that mounts externally - typically near the highest use of hot water or midway between multiple usage points. If there is some distance between the use locations, you can also install a D'mand pump to "call" the hot water so you are not wasting water waiting for the hot water to arrive. If you install a unit on the interior of your unit, e.g., in the previous water heater closet, the unit will require venting. And - FYI - one reason people love to install an on-demand is that you can actually repurpose a former water heater closet creating more useable space in your condo. One last piece of important information, you will need to check the size of your incoming water line. Typically water lines are 3/4 inches in diameter. On-demand units require incoming water lines of one inch. So you may need to upgrade your plumbing to accomodate the increased size of your incoming water lines. I hope that helps.
It all depends on the companies policy. Here we would of course be more than happy to come out and look at everything, and fix them for you, but we also do provide 10 year warranties to our customers, so it may be different for the company you worked with. I would definitely call and let them know when the work was done, everything seemed fine, until you had an attic inspection scheduled and they had informed you about how poorly the job was done. Most companies should be more than happy to fix mistakes on their end for any customer they've had!
Good luck with everything, I hope it all works out and gets fixed for you!
Looks like you could use help of a good plumber or handy man who knows how to work with PVC piping. It's not complicated job, but there are few technics to it. Hope it helps.