Step one, if you have siding use a insulated vinyl siding with silica gel. Replace your windows with a double or triple insulated window system. And third your doors are very important. When you do replacement anything you want the doors and windows to fit the space perfectly. We can do these things and more at Jarrett Industries.
The combination of answers above is pretty inclusive. The first responder's comments get you to the construction phase. I would add that recommendations from friends sometimes fall short if your project is of a different nature than theirs. Be sure your contractor has a track record in the type project you are considering.,
Our estimates list out detail of the work scope included and an overall cost. When moving to the contract phase we submit a schedule of values that will be used for percentage complete pay apps.
As far as the construction process, this would be our normal progression:
protection - provision for temp lighting if needed
demolition and temp arrangements for appliance usage if needed
framing of new walls, floors or beams
rough plumbing If needed
rough electric for lights, appliances etc
hvac or venting as needed
insulation
drywall
tile prep, underlayment
tile or hardwood installation
more protection before cabinets to protect finished floors
install cabinets
install trim (base/crown etc)
measure/install countertops
install appliances
paint (sometimes this will move ahead of countertops)
backsplashes
plumbing finish
electrical finish
cabinet hardware
provide & perform punch list
remove protection
test electric, plumbing, appliance function
Note: inspections required vary by jurisdiction but for our area it will generally include foundation if an addition is involved, framing if structural changes, rough plumbing, rough electric insulation, final plumbing, final electric, certificate of occupancy.
Hope this helps
hire a licensed pro and avoid the pitfalls.
The above are two good, and siilar in approach answers, but there are two issues it seems no one includes:
1) If you house was built before 1978 it must be inspected by a certified contractor or lead paint inspector for lead paint before a remodel is started. If found the paint, or paintd material must be prperly abated. This can be a significant cost item.
2) Most remodel items like tile, cabinets, and paint are considered minor and don't require it in most jurisdictions, but electrical, plumbing, HVAC, and structural modifications require permits and inspections. A homeowner can save money by omitting them, but if you get busted, you'l pay and you may be without a kitchen for a long time.
Robert Johnson
Southern Home Improvement, LLC
Georgia
Set up includeing Dust Containment field, reverse air flow and floor protection
Demo concreete work, framing, roofing
Rough electrical
Rough plumbing
Inspection
Drywall,
Inspectioin
Mud and tape
Cabinets and fixtures
Tile backsplash
Finish electrical
Finish plumbing
Fixtures
Finishes Painting
Final Inspection
Clean up
Photo Pizza Party
Each phase should show labor (both in house and sub), materials broken out
Hope this helps
Philip Anderson
HDR Remodeling
Berkeley Ca
Each contractor has own estimating. Estimatehas to contain material selections so you can compare other contractors and know that you comparing "apples to apples". (Do not expect to have their cost broken down.)
Each phase can have estimated labor time. But that something that most likely included in to the total project cost.
Phase1. Get design done and analyze your lay out and cabinet functionality.
Phase 2. Materials to be used selection.Most impact on your budget makes your selections - door style, construction, finish. Be smart and flexible on door style to get most value for your money.
Phase 3. Ask for referrals from previous customers from your contractor. Do your homework before you open doors for strangers.
Phase 4. Sign contract, pay "down payment". Ask for payment and material delivery schedule for your project.
Last but not the least. Reward your hardworking subs.
Regards
Manny Stiega
Most states do have a 3 day right of recison. This allows a customer to cancel a contract without any penalties and or fees within 3 business days of contract. However in most cases that rule does not apply and the law does not apply if you have invited the contractor over and or if you have gone to their place of business. This law was put in place for the high pressure door knockers.
Again if you set up an apointment with a contractor and invited them to your home the 3 day does not apply.
That said if there is a real good reason, car accident, unforseen expsences etc. most contractors will allow you out of a contract even if after 3 days.
Lastly please keep in mind usually 30% of the cost of the job is actually before the job has started, marketing, commisions, adminstration etc. etc.
I hope this helps.
Tim Brown RGS Exteriors and Contruction
801-280-3110
I would agree...let you contractor know immeately by a phone all that you are excersising your 3 day option. Then follow the cancellation by the letter of the law.
I would recommend that you keep it professional, short an if possible friendly. If the contractor wants to know how they could have done it better, please be factural and not immotional.
Phiip Anderson
Berkeley Ca
In MN. we have the same 3 day right to rescind. This is standardized form (written legibally) in type 10 bold letter type. My understanding, it is required to be given to the client if contract you sign is in the homeowners residense. Not if the contract is signed in the our company's office. We give it to our clients either way. The 1st day starts the day after you sign and is counted daily except for weekends and holidays.
The real issue is... if you are having 2nd thoughts about being in contract with a particular contractor. I am thinking that I as a contractor, I would certainly need to know the issues, even if after "3 days right to rescind" has passed. I typically don't order product for any project until the time period has passed. If you want to get out of your contractoral obligations, there should not be any financial obligations from your part if contract is legally rescinded according to the form and in an appropriate time period. If after there may be some fees as your contractor may have spent time to proceed with your material and scheduling process for your project.
Hope this helps.
Texas also has a 3 day RoR.
In MA we have the three day right of recession policy. Our contracts have a Notice of Cancellation document that is in NCR form. The homeowner mails or faxes back a signed copy within three days.
If your document is unreadable which to me is a warning sign I would call them and ask them what to do and send an email cancelling as well.
If you have any further questions you can call me at 978-304-0495. Hope I was able to help you.
Stepahnie Vanderbilt
Windows and doors are the largest culprit in lost of energy efficiency. It may not be the cheapest option but will provide you with the largest impact.
Use plumbing soder that comes in a roll. Break off a piece and put in the hole then put the screw back in.
I am assuming it is a standard steel entry door handset. If the screws are not striped, simply tighten the screws as you would on any entry or passage set.
Christofer, There is a lot written about your particular condition. What I would do would be to install a spray polyurethane insulation (closed cell insulation) into the attic ceiling and down to and including the eaves. this installed over a 1/4" plywood that would be "cleated" down at a minimum of 1" below the bottom of the roof sheathing, thus eliminating the "hot roof" situation. As far as moisture... if you understand that warm air rises and carries the moisture up (another reason i would use a closed cell product) then it makes sense to foam any walls or kneewalls as well. The venting on the top side would not be to eliminate any interior moisture, but to make your shingles last longer (keep them from overheating). Quite a few asphalt companies have disclaimers on warrantees because of this issue. You would need to check with your steel roof manufacturer how they respond to a hot roof application.
Ok so you don't really want all that moisture collecting on your windows and or finished wall substrates in the attic. So an ERV/HRV or even the furnace fan run continuously would help distrubute or evacute the excess moisture if this is your main house furnace (air handler). FYI- change filters monthly in these systems to help mitigate possible mold issues. I recommend the 6" combustion air (bringing in dry outside air) code required in IRC. I am not sure if this furnace unit in your attic is the primary furnace (air handler) for the home. If so that would help distribute attic moisture to the lower parts of the home. If separate attic unit only, I'm not thinking it will ever distribute moist warm air to the lower level like you suggest.
Remember this... once you start changing the function of your home's ventilation/conditioned or unconditioning of a space you will be changing the whole dynamics of how the house used to function. Henceforth do your homework. All this said...I run my company business in the extreme temperature zone of Minnesota. Your local heating guys should have a better handle on providing a safe living environment for your family. Mold can be a serious issue.