Many of my roofing and siding sub-contractors, including myself, use Leaf Relief and have had good luck with it.

I'm with you guys on the eating part! We had a bupper crop this year and the freezer is full. For those areas where we don't want them, there is product we found at Southern States that works. I bought it for our poison ivy but it ended up working on other things. The name escapes me, but it come in larger bulk containers and you mix w/ water.

You didn't mention if the grout was colored. Be very careful to NOT use any bleach based products on any colored grouts. Something that works good on all types of grout is bon-ami mixed with vinegar. Dig out any caulk before doing this. Let completely dry after cleaning before applying any sealer and finally caulking. We like and use Impregnator tile sealer.

I don't recall where I saw it, but there is a product (similar to door & window flash, but wider) that goes on the plywood, along with a primer. You would need to start the application down at the footing and overlap it to just above grade.

I guess it would really depend on what type of home, the age of it and where it's located. Most of your older homes (prior to 1940) have a lot custom details you want to keep intact. If it's really old, and hasn't been maintained, then restoring may not be an economical solution. A lot of the homes in our area (DC Metro) are being torn down because the lots are so valuable.

73-79 when active in home. This can go up when everyone is at work or school.

I would recommend a nursery that sells locally grow products. You have a much better chance of it surviving if it's grown in local conditions & soil. Who knows where that big boxes got that last train load of plants from!

First of all, will the electrical box be able to support the new fan? A paddle fan takes a special box rated for the extra weight. You can get one for an "old work" set-up and use the same ceiling cut-out. It's a little tricky getting the old box out, especially if there are a lot of wires coming into it.

I have a mother-in-law that has been breeding dogs for many years and she swares by ceramic tile.

Laminate are durable but make the tapping noise from their nails when they walk on them.

You mentioned this room being over a crawl space. We have found that most spaces are incorrectly conditioned.....or should I say say, not conditioned at all. Insulation is typically installed within the floor joist, leaving the crawlspace open and unconditioned. The foundation walls and ground should have a vapor barrier installed over them and insulation should be installed around the perimeter. You wouldn't do the wall that connects to the main house. You want this space to be treated like an extension of the basement.

It depends on how much storage you need, how you access it, available space between joints and ground and is area conditioned? Do you have some pictures and rough dimensions?

One that is flexible and open to new ideas and solutions.

One that doesn't second guess every step of the process.

One that doesn't watch over your workers and want to help.

One that doesn't have to be in contact 24/7.

One that shows appreciation for progress and quality.

One that provides baked goods once a week.

Verify that all window and door seals/weatherstriping is in good shape.

Check to be sure doors and windows are caulked properly (no gaps, cracks or missing).

If you have an attic access, treat it like door opening and seal properly. If possible, create an insulated cover to go over it in the attic.

Check HVAC ductwork for leaks and seal with foil tape or mastic.

Wrap your hot water heater in a blanket.

Use a tester to verify the power is off before starting repair. Use pliers with insulated handles. Wrap electrical tape around switch or outlet screws before installing into box. Make sure all devises are grounded, including metal boxes.