Dan Vorona asked:
May 8, 2014
Bruce Wiegan of BNW Builders PRO answered:
Apr 18, 2015
Go to Everlastsiding.com
Go to Everlastsiding.com
I agree with Jared. You will need a high temp sealant.
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There are companies that offer energy evaluations and some even use thermal imaging and a tool / process called a blower door reading / test. This will help identify the cause and opportunities for correction. You can do some easy items as well like ensuring all like plate covers have insulated pads behind the covers, check for insulation around your homes perimeter if you have an unfinished basement, check your homes exterior for small gaps or holes left from old utilities and service work performed over the years. Best of luck!
No need for s econd mositure barrier which is what the paper-face is. Just roll out unfaced insualtion atop the existing. Or, as an option, rent a blower and use loose-fill insulation.
Rockwood insulation should do the job
The drywall that has water damage should be removed. The wood studs might also need to be replaced depending on if there is mold or rot. The insulation behind the drywall should also be replaced. The base molding might also need replacing as well as the flooring.
John,
Are you referring to insulating the ceiling of the garage (i.e. cold floors above)? Will you be dropping the ceiling or are you looking for options with minimal disturbance?
The caulking mentioned is fine to seals the gape but you may need somethingto back it other thatn backer rod. in that case you may need a small amount of Rockwool insulation to pack into the void befor applying the caulk. This is a link to the product https://www.rockwool.com/applications/exterior-walls/firestopping/
If you only need a small amount check with a local insulation company to see if they will sell or even give you the smaill quanity you need.
Foam insulation is very effective in the development of a super tight building enevelope. It will stop air leakage and enable more total control of the interior living space. This present potential problems in that our living and breathing in the living space generates moisture.
Traditional building construction practices are precisely the opposite and utilizes the concept of venting in the attic and in the crawl space whereby the area above and below the living envelope allows for the eveporation of moisture.
In designing a super tight envelope that is totally sealed there should be careful thought and concern for moisture in the enclosed area. Because foam is so effective at sealing drafts, the space should be thoughtfully designed as a whole house system, with exhaust vents for all areas of the house that generate moisture, and consideration should be given to installing an Energy Recovery Vent (ERV) to normalize the humidity between exterior and interior, to avoid the potential of developing a sick hoiuse syndrome.
Open cell is advisable in attic applications where you want moisture to freely move through when a roof leak developes, to avoid major structural damage over time. Close cell is most advisable in the peremeter of the crawl space or basement area where concern is for a more dense insulation product with more structure. (I have seen it done but advise against, applying foam on the bottom side of flooring since doing so seals all of the mechanical systems into the muck and makes maintainence profoundly troublesome and wretched for the future).
Bob Windom, Windom Construction Co. Inc. Atlanta
Good Morning,
Nice space. Its hard to tell from the photos just how big the space needing to be filled is however
Dap 18854 High Heat Mortar Raw Building Material, Black
should work well. It can likey be found at you local hardware store of online
Best of luck and Happy Holidays
Jared
Per ANSI/IICRC S500 Standards and Reference Guide.
"Restorers should consider drywall restoation when it can e verified that no structural integrity has been lost. Dywall can be restoragle if the water is Category 1 or 2, there is no obvious swelling, seams are intact, and there is no idication of fungal growth. Drywall should be replaced when contaminated with Category 3 water, damage is obvious (e.g., swelling, seam sagging, seperation), fungal growth is present on paper coverings on either side, or when blown-in insulation materials behind the drywall have likely packed down."
Blow in, but will have to hide it with a new ceiling I believe...
