What is the wall construction of the home?

Before making a recommendation about painting, you have to know what the vapor permeance and structure of the wall is.  Improper placement of a vapor retarder can have disatrous implications.

WoW Home Solutions

Where is the home located? 

There are applications (i.e. work in the city) where the work costs more to complete than a similar project in the suburbs. 

Can you provide us with some more details about where the project is and why you think it might cost more?

WoW

Scott,

The easiest thing to do is check in the attic and look at the sheathing. If there is any mold growth, you can tread it with a proper mildewicide and make sure that the fan ducting is extended to vent through the roof or through the side of the home (i.e. to outside).

Good time to check the venting of the roof in general as well as look into any air sealing and insulation.

Don't worry about the mold having spread to the home and points further than the attic...it will not have as a result of a poorly routed bath fan.

If you are concerned about the mold while accessing the attic, have proper PPE (personal protection equipment) on to include a respirator that is effective against mold spores.

Don't disturb them until you treat them.

+1

If you can amortize it into the long term loan on the home, it is a 100% no brainer.

Yes!!

Air sealing and insulation are the two biggest things you can do to globally improve the efficiency of the home. 

There are several articles on this application and I have yet to be in a home that didn't need it. 

Tightening up the envelope across the attic surface will lessen air infiltration at all the other areas of the home. 

The most often recommended window covering for efficiency is a cellular shade.

Please note that as you keep more of the interior heat from reaching the interior window surface, the potential for condensation will go up with that reduction in heat exposure as a result of the window's lower surface temperature.

Air sealing and insulation of the exterior top plates is critical to preventing that warm and moist air from warming the roof deck.

Attic ventilation is critical to keep that attic dry and as close to ambient air temperature.

Keep in mind that some ice dams are not preventable regardless of insulation and ventilation.  That being said, I would venture a guess that 90% of ice dams are the result of poor insulation and ventilation. 

John,

I must confess to never having seen that application. 

I am not sure the finish would look good or even hold up over the long term.  I would also be worried about the potential vapor retarder level interplay with what is behind the tile. 

I have yet to survey a home that didn't need additional insulation and more importantly....air sealing. 

While HVAC systems are typically older in most homes that we audit, every home that I have ever been in leaks too much air and much, much more than is required.

Air Sealing and Insulation would be #1 and #2 on my list.  After that, items like HVAC and windows will jockey for position depending on the condition of both. 

Big +1 to Abe's feedback.

He is 100% right on the differences.

Inserts can be done very effectively with no weak links in the system in a vast majority of the cases.  Where it really pays dividends to go with a full, new construction window is in situations where you are disturbing the drainage plane and not able to properly access and rebuild it via insert application

Abe's pictures are a perfect example of that.

If you can afford the cost differential and you are thinking about doing a siding project...absolutely do them together.  That is the most comprehensive installation to go back with the proper flashing, nailing flange, drip cap, etc. 

Abe nailed the answer for you.

If the windows are due for replacement, look for a window with offset glazing or an option of laminated glass inside the standard set of windows.

Dedicated STC windows will usually have a deeper frame to accomodate an integrated storm sash for additional noise cancelling improvements.

Be sure that the windows are the source of the issue before spending big bucks on them. 

In most homes, the neccesity of new windows does not usually crack the top 3 in terms of energy efficiency improvements.

You can usually get more efficiency mileage and bang for your remodeling dollar from othere retrofits (air sealing, insulation, etc.).

That being said, insulation does not improve the visual resale of the home or make the home prettier from the curb.  Windows have tangible impact on resale and on brightening up the home's exterior.

One thing that is never accounted for in energy modeling when comparing existing windows to replacement windows is the net improvement in air tightness.  This improvement can often times supercede the impact on the homes efficiency as compared to the total unit R-value improvement. 

John,

1. Surrounding trees should be trimmed back and prepared to handle the snow load.
2. Make sure windows and doors are caulked.
3. Clear items away from the side of the that could trap snow drifts and allow for melting agains the side of the home.
4. Make sure the attic ventilation is adequate and insulation levels are up to code to help mitigate ice dam formation
5. If the home has a crawlspace, make sure pipes are insulated and prepared for the temparature lows.

If you can post up a picture of the home I can give you more acute observations. 

WoW Home Solutions

John,

Are you referring to insulating the ceiling of the garage (i.e. cold floors above)?   Will you be dropping the ceiling or are you looking for options with minimal disturbance?