In a word...yes.
As Katie mentioned, you need an appropriate length fastener and a cap nail is ideal.
What you haven't mentioned is what the wall depth is as well as climate. If you have 2x6 walls, 1" foam may not be enough to keep dew point at bay.
The basement is leaking through the foundation or block wall? If so, there is nothing you can put on it that will keep the water back if there is enough of it outside the wall.
You need to fix the water issue on the exterior or allow for drainage to the interior in a controlled method.
+1 to the previous comments. Depends on what the foam manufacturer specifies as well as what the exterior sheathing is going to be. I would also recommend a thicker foam for additional insulation and thermal break if possible. Depends on what climate you are in and what the wall construction is when it comes to optimal foam depth.
This is based entirely on the Manufactueres recommended installation techniques per the scope of work to be performed. Such as location, what your fastening to etc.
Here is a product that is safe and non-toxic for waterproofing walls and even floors. They have various products for different needs. Hope this is helpful, good luck!
Hey C.J.,
The manufacturer's installation specifications should specify the type and length of fasteners that should be used with installing the 5 inch foam board. You may want to contact the local store where you purchased the material for the manufacturer representative in your area. Hope this advice helps!
Eric Consuegra,
AROCON Roofing and Construction, LLC
Hey C.J.,
It is always important to read the manufacturer's installation instructions for approved fasteners. Depending on the thickness of the foam board, the fasteners may need to be a little longer to penetrate through the studs/sheathing enough.
Hope this helps!
-Katie
I don't recall where I saw it, but there is a product (similar to door & window flash, but wider) that goes on the plywood, along with a primer. You would need to start the application down at the footing and overlap it to just above grade.
As Brittany stated earlier, we only use hot-dipped galvanized in this application. It is not a code issue but it does make a huge impact on quality and what will be seen for years to come.
The correct nail to be used is a Hot dipped galvanized nail. Nail diameter and size are different on all applications . A regular galvanized nail is only electo galvanized meaning as soon as the driver from the vail gun strikes the nail that part is no longer galvanized . Always use hot dipped for all aplications and you'll be safe. Sometimes We have to go repair entire houses where siders us the electro galvanized instead of paying the $10 more for the correct nails and you will see the nail heads actually rusting. Great question though. Hoped this help. www.greenbuiltwa.com
Unfortunately, insulation and sound proofing is not required per code between conditioned spaces in this case.
It is also worthy of note that additional insulation between the floor will do very little to impact the noise tranmission as a majority is carried via vibrations on the framing.
There are applications and techiques that can can be deployed. All of them will require removal of the existing ceiling if you stay with a drywall finish. You can run resilient channel in addition to sound de-coupling isolators.
It is not an easy or cheap bullet fix in this case.