Yes, GFI outlet.

Most likely it is a GFCI outlet which esssentially means the circut has been blown at the outlet. This usually happens if a drop of water or a hard bump occured within the circuit. If this is the case then there should be a"reset" button that you can push and the light should stop blinking and the outlet will work again. If there is no "reset" button or you aren't sure what to do then call a licensed electrician.

Not sure but stay away from it...

If it's solid red it might be indicating a tripped GFCI, if it's flashing it might be defective. When I say might it's because not all GFCI-s have the same type of light or color. Some are lit when on, some when tripped. I hope this helps

That sounds like it is a GFCI outlet, which simply put means your outlet has it's own breaker. Most codes now require outside electrical outlets to be GFCI for safety reasons. If it is flashing red it probably means the test button has been tripped by a finger or the breaker within the GFCI has been tripped from an electrical surge. If it has been tripped then it shouldn't have any power to it. Most have a reset button, press it and you should have power again. It it continues to trip, call a licensed electrician. 

Dimmer switch plates will tend to get hotter with bulbs that are not suited for them. Standard halogen or incandescent bulbs work great. If using CFL's for the lighting they should be specifically for a dimmer.

LED's are becoming a lot more affordable & we are seeing a higher percentage of customers using them. Might consider these if you haven't already.

You can use a dimmable CFL in case you want to go with energy savings. 

The combination of answers above is pretty inclusive. The first responder's comments get you to the construction phase. I would add that recommendations from friends sometimes fall short if your project is of a different nature than theirs. Be sure your contractor has a track record in the type project you are considering.,

 Our estimates list out detail of the work scope included and an overall cost. When moving to the contract phase we submit a schedule of values that will be used for percentage complete pay apps. 

 As far as the construction process, this would be our normal progression:

protection - provision for temp lighting if needed

demolition and temp arrangements for appliance usage if needed

framing of new walls, floors or beams

rough plumbing If needed

rough electric for lights, appliances etc

hvac or venting as needed

insulation

drywall

tile prep, underlayment

tile or hardwood installation

more protection before cabinets to protect finished floors

install cabinets

install trim (base/crown etc)

measure/install countertops

install appliances

paint (sometimes this will  move ahead of countertops)

backsplashes

plumbing finish

electrical finish

cabinet hardware

provide & perform punch list 

remove protection

test electric, plumbing, appliance function

Note: inspections required vary by jurisdiction but for our area it will generally include foundation if an addition is involved, framing if structural changes, rough plumbing, rough electric  insulation, final plumbing, final electric, certificate of occupancy. 

Hope this helps

hire a licensed pro and avoid the pitfalls.

All good answers. It should be noted also that in incandescent bulbs there are different wattage dimmers. The most common are 600 watt and 1500 watt. The lights being controlled by the dimmer should fall under these limits. 

A standard dimmer switch will easily control a traditional incandescent bulb.  If you choose to use a compact fluorescent or LED bulb, you will need to install a "C dot L" dimmer, which is designed to control these lower consumption types of bulbs.  These dimmers are readily available at home depot and lowes.