In a word...yes.

As Katie mentioned, you need an appropriate length fastener and a cap nail is ideal.

What you haven't mentioned is what the wall depth is as well as climate.  If you have 2x6 walls, 1" foam may not be enough to keep dew point at bay. 

Insulation is insulation regardless of type.  Whatever the R-Value per inch of the specific material is, times the number of inches, will equal the total R-Value.  We are looking for R-49 to be Energy Star. 

If the roof is not vented or we are talking about a hot roof deck, that is another consideration. 

The floors in your home, while insulation will certainly mitigate this delta, will be different temperatures as the laws of thermodynamics are universal. 

Get the insulation in the attic to R-49, seal the ductwork, seal the top plates, etc. and you will be good. 

The basement is leaking through the foundation or block wall?  If so, there is nothing you can put on it that will keep the water back if there is enough of it outside the wall.

You need to fix the water issue on the exterior or allow for drainage to the interior in a controlled method. 

The shutters on my own home are painted, although not well. 

I think the consideration becomes is when the cost of painting them approaches about 70% the cost of new.  Shutters aren't terrible expensive and the ones that are on new construction homes have usually taken a beating for other reasons.

Don't get me wrong, I dislike throwing stuff away.  I would post up a picture of my garage if I wanted to be really embarrased, but if they are in good shape, paint them.  If not, replacements make sense. 

Windows on Washington

+1 to the previous comments. Depends on what the foam manufacturer specifies as well as what the exterior sheathing is going to be. I would also recommend a thicker foam for additional insulation and thermal break if possible. Depends on what climate you are in and what the wall construction is when it comes to optimal foam depth.

I think you really need to see both on a home and decide what looks better to you.  Vinyl will be cheaper and is a more modular system and less prone to leakage and installation errors. 

I would encourage you to read up on SPF and if you do go that route, make sure you get a great and insured installer.  SPF does have additional benefit from and air sealing standpoint but beyond the airtightness improvements, does not (in the case of OC SPF) have any greater R-Value than traditional batting assuming that both are in an static air environment.  Best thing you can do from a real high performance wall assembly is to thermally uncouple the exterior wall from the framing.  This will net you a much higher performance assembly than SPF alone but should be done by someone that is familiar with this approach and applications. 

SPF is great but I prefer it to be used as an air sealant first and foremost. 

Educate yourself on the pros and cons before you engage in an insulation schedule. 

Eric Novotny

If anyone tells you that you can save "X" with windows, throw them out of the home. Will you save something, yes. Is is impossible to tell what that something will be without a laboratory environment, yes as well.

When looking at window performance, it is imperative that you compare both U-Factors and Air Infiltration rates. A window that is tighter will be more efficient over its lifespan in the home.

WoW Home Solutions

Roof to wall intersections and pipe collars are probably the two most common locations. What is the height and pitch of the roof? I don't suggest hitting the roof with a bunch of water unless you know how to spray it. Shooting water from the bottom up can facilitate a leak on a roof that is otherwise working properly.

An attic inspection is a good idea an if you can separate out the difference between bulk water and condensation stains, you should be able to put an eyeball on the leak.

Good luck and do not get on the roof unless you know how to walk it and have PPE.

WoW Home Solutions.

Motorcycle and Golf themes if it were my room.

Michael,

Eric pretty much nailed it. 

It is not usually worth it in my opinion and especially given the nature of most leaks and the condition of most sheathing. 

Roofs aren't cheap so I think the math usually plays out that the full tear off is a better idea based on the fact that you get a better install and will likely have a roof that will last longer.

WoW Home Solutions

Depends on the specific type of tub but they can very quickly get over 300lbs. 

I have thrown out my back moving them out when they were broken into two pieces so they are not light.  Some run as heavy as 500lbs+

What type of fence are you leaning toward? Once you get into the larger fences, they are typically 4 or 3 board style horse fences.

+1

Impossible to say without inspecting the roof but some will live quite a long time based on exposure, correctness of installation, ventilation, etc.

There is quite a bit of variance and human contribution when it comes to getting the most out of the roof as well so when you do replace it, be sure to deal with someone that knows their craft and will educate you on the decisions and material selections that will work most effective for your home.

WoW Home Solutions